Megasquirt Support Forum (MSEXTRA)

Yes it worked. While using it while driving I had it setup based on VSS iirc. Anything below 30mph had 5% dc to keep the valve closed, then above 30 I had it set to 0%.

I mocked up for a verification terst the Race pack style with the 6mm threads. Getting it into the housing was a little challenge as I was using a drill press as an endmill, but after some jigs and creative thinking, I was able to get it working.

The whole invert the wiring deal doesnt work. If wired normal you use rising edge, when inverted you use falling edge, which litterly is the same trigger. Glad you got it working! The toryota tooth pattern can be a booger to get right.

I’ve always had to buffer the crank and cam with 10k resistors inline with the positive side, and sometimes a 1k across positive and negative on the sensor

Look for sync loss in the log

Which cam sensor are you using? I was using the rear one

I ran the 36-2 wheel with the non vvti single tooth cam sensor. My timing offset value was 515 and my ignition capture was rising edge.

It doesn't really matter to be honest. Which ever way is easier to wire.

Ive ran this relay before and used the Haltech diagram, but didn't need the resistor across the control wires.

Click on the info tab


https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-0302 ... y-100-amp/

I did not have any issues as far as running, but the fine tuning is pretty course, so I ended up doing all table blending and found peak tq was different than gas so the fuel and timing tables were a bit different. From this table, I can tell you that e85 is 50% greater than gasoline to get your bas...

I just opened a tune file from the 1.4.xx era and the flex multiplyer was 163% I had made some corrections it looks like and my JZ was running great on 50hz at 102% with 0 ehtanol and 150hz at 166% with 100% ethanol.

I did find that tuning for each fuel and table blending was way better.

Ballinger makes the AFR500V2 and I think a new one came out too, and one has Canbus capabilities. It does have a screen, but the same unit can control an NGK and Bosch setup with some dipswith changes internally. It puts out a nice linear scale too.

Are you just logging egate postion or using ms3 to control it? I dont have the full voltage chart as Fueltech does autocalibrate, but my open to closed range is 0.8 to 4.6volts on the 60mm.

Ill bet this will be a first for them, and possibly a board change to have the pulldown a user settable dip switch.

The ecu should be seeing voltage supplied then ground just as you found using the wrench.

Ahhhhh, that’s a very good find there. Being a pnp as I noted it’s hard to say what they did internally.

I had always ran a resistor to sensor ground off the vr- though, never did the postive, just had an inline resistor when I had that type of sensor

Let us know what you find.

Perfect. Pull-up already in the sensor, thanks for checking. I can understand your frustration here and let’s not pay that shop rate and do some more tests! Can you rig up a toothed wheel on a drill? Then turn the car on and spin the drill while holding the sensor close just to prove we can get a cl...

Im not your guy on looking at the Comp log and deciphering it. But sure does look like you have crank signal though. maybe you said, but what wire are you using for input into the ecu? On the gneric models we use the postive side or white crank trigger wire. Is the battery charged? Maybe pull the pl...

Needing a pull-up is easy to check for. The signal wire gos high or battery voltage with no metal present then grounds when close to metal. With the sensor out of the car you can supply power and ground, then use a volt meter on the trigger wire and use a wrench to pass over the sensor https://www.d...

I only mention grounds, as those can play havok in a system, especially when efi is invivled with electric pumps, coil power, cooling fans, heaters and so on. Im not saying its the solution, but a clean bus ground that is islolated from the chassis that all efi stuff grounds too is a good and proper...

It’s something to try. A battery acts like a big noise
Absorber. Where is your battery at when you say back to the battery. Is the battery in the trunk or did you just mean run a ground to the battery under the engine bay?

That black sensor does not need a pullup. It has an internal one.