VR6 No start

[dave926]

I feel like it is something simple that I am missing here.

VR6, wasted spark with the stock coilpack.

Relevant Board Mods are the resistor method for firing the coils.

Standard board mod for VR sensor. Sensor came off a known running engine. VR pots are turned fully CCW, verified via R54 (or whatever one it is)via multimeter. Red wire (pin 1) is connected to pin 24 on the DB37

Cranks well, but Tach is dropping in and out. Attached are a regular log, tooth log, composite and msq

[dave926]

MSQ attached here since I hit the 3 upload limit

[grom_e30]

looks like your triggering off the wrong edge, try and change 'ignition input capture' to "rising edge"

[prof315]

looks like your triggering off the wrong edge, try and change 'ignition input capture' to "rising edge"

X2

[dave926]

Well it was a long night (2am)

I tried that after making the post but no luck, still sync error 2 and no start.

Switched the VR wires so that the green wire (OEM plug) was connected to pin24, and the red wire was connected to pin1.

Still got a sync error 2 on start up but it fired up nearly instantly. I've read multiple places here that sync errors during start are not uncommon, so at this point I'm not concerned.

[grom_e30]

can you post new composite and tooth logs, with the wires switched but still using the falling edge.

[dave926]

I will try to get them this week, as it's a friend's car that just needed to start and run before he dumped any more money into the car.

The only reason I ended up switching the wires is from something I saw in the start-up manual in the tooth logger with what a switched VR+/VR- look like

[grom_e30]

switching the ignition input capture setting does the same as switching the vr wires.

[dave926]

Put a 10k between VRin and Tachselect (would rather not rip apart the harness), still getting a sync loss reason 2.

[Paul_VR6]

Which mainboard? V3 should not need any resistor.

[dave926]

I'm not using the vrinv jumper, and after seeing the schematics I can understand why you do.

Honestly though in hindsight I'm not sure it was needed.

First thing I learned tonight is VR6s don't like a 650rpm idle. At 900ish, no issues whatsoever. Watched the tooth logger for a few minutes and no double missing teeth issues I was having before.

Second, I discovered TS is doing auto burns, which I did not notice the other night. I'm used to the burn stumble from my MS1 days, but not used to seeing a sync error at the same time.

Otherwise it's idling pretty solid at 900ish, very stable (+/- 50rpm) via just closed loop timing control. Id like to get the throttle working, but I wired it backwards so I'll need to review that and maybe switch the pins on the connector.

[BigLou240sx]

Second, I discovered TS is doing auto burns, which I did not notice the other night. I'm used to the burn stumble from my MS1 days, but not used to seeing a sync error at the same time.

That sounds a lot more like you are losing sync, and the engine is stumbling as PW goes to 0 during no sync events. Don't believe TS has the ability to auto-burn

[dave926]

I dont think was doing it during the normal ve/timing changes. Just more than once I recall the 'need burn' indicator turning red, stumbling, then going away.

[Paul_VR6]

Watch the sync loss count, it should become obvious.

You need the vroutinv jumper on ms1 but on ms2/3 its its irrelevant as you can switch the trigger edge in the software.

Agreed though 650 is a bit low. 900 should be dead smooth.

[dave926]

Will the wrong trigger edge cause the timing to drift?

I managed to run mine over moving the car this morning......

[grom_e30]

when i was triggering off the wrong edge not only did i get sync problems where the engine would just cut out if the rpm lowered but the3 ignition timing actually advanced with raising the rpm when it was set to fixed timing, should be easy to spot if your using the wrong edge on a running engine just looking at the tooth logger.

[dave926]

latest logs attached

[grom_e30]

tooth log looks good in the datalog you get a sync loss when you burn to the ecu thats normal...


edit::: can you post a current msq as id like to see your idle advance settings.

[BigLou240sx]

Agree on sync loss on intended burns, but is it normal to have "auto-burn" behavior that dave described? I didn't think that was the case?

[grom_e30]

auto burn on veal possibly? if you look at status1 = 136 fully synced then jumps up to 137 = fully sync + need burn then the sync loss happens and it goes back to 136 = full sync, im not 100% certain but if you have a settings page open and make a change i believe it may get burnt when you close that settings page as well.