No RPM input, Megalogviewer not working, aaarrghhh

[noactivationemail]

Okay so I've had pretty much the worst Megasquirt experience imaginable, but rather than rant I'll jump straight to my problem and see if anyone can fix it.

Running a Megasquirt 2 V3.0. No bells and whistles, just the standard kit that was available a good decade ago.
I've put it together, everything worked with the Stim, it's wired up to the car and MegaTune on my laptop is talking to the Megasquirt.

I'm getting no RPM input.

I'm running an Optical CAS with four evenly sized holes in the trigger wheel, it's driven by the cam so four per cam rotation, two per crank rotation. The engine is a 4 cylinder, 4 stroke petrol.
I'm running a single coil from DIYAutotune driven by the high current circuit in the MS, still running the actual distributor to send it to the right cylinder.

In my loom, I have added a 1K resistor between the TPS 5V (thin grey wire) and the Pin 24 insulated grey wire which goes to the 4 pulse in the CAS/dizzy. After the 1K resistor, this ends up being around 2.2V when when the Optical is passing through a hole, and pulls down to 0.25V when there's no hole. I can see this with a voltmeter whilst rotating the dizzy by hand. I'm assuming either the resistor and/or my Optical sensor is pulling the 5V down to the 2.2, and I'm not sure if this is enough for the MS to trigger or read as a pulse. I'm thinking of trying a 12V pull-up instead of 5V. I can't find documentation on my distributor either, it's one of a few types available on the Isuzu 4ZE1 engine (locally sold in Jackaroo and Rodeo).

I don't know how to view the voltage on pin 24/Hall-Opti input with MegaLogView, I can only see the RPM graph which shows 0. I even tried Googling (extensively) how to use MegaLogViewer for this and whilst I've seen others do it, I still can't find any information on how. I'm not sure if my Megasquirt is configured to read the input correctly, I can't see the "distributor" option that I've heard referenced anywhere and frankly I don't feel like any of the software is helping whatsoever.

I will upload a log shortly and can provide screenshots of my configurations also. The ECU is soldered up for Hall effect including a jumper in place of D1 as per the manual. I chose to apply the pull-up in the loom as there's no way in hell I could get the soldering iron to do this on the chip with all the other components in place!

Any help appreciated, I'm at my wit's end and ready to bin it and wire up another ECU instead. I even had trouble joining up to this forum, third time's the charm!

Thanks,
Eli

[DaveEFI]

The D1 bit suggests you're using the opto input. That does have to be configured properly as regards its hardware to work, and there are several options.
If you look at the current manual, it says to use the VR input for pretty well all sensors, as it can accept a wide range on signals without modification. This is a change from the earlier manuals.

[DaveEFI]

The D1 bit suggests you're using the opto input. That does have to be configured properly as regards its hardware to work, and there are several options.
If you look at the current manual, it says to use the VR input for pretty well all tach sensors, as it can accept a wide range on signals without modification. This is a change from the earlier manuals.

[noactivationemail]

Alright quick update - sorry for the sporadic responses, I've been working on it and it's been a bit frantic.

I changed the trigger wheel teeth to 0 - it was a real stab in the dark and I have no idea why this would work (since the Opto has 4 teeth, or 2 if you're talking crank speed) and it's registering what seems to be the correct RPM! I was spinning the dizzy by hand at a calculated speed as the battery is too cactus to start the car.

I need to confirm some of my other settings, the spark seemed a bit sporadic but that's probably more to do with the battery and hand triggering etc.

1. If my Optical trigger is pulling the voltage down to ground during the four "open" sections, should I trigger on rising edge or falling edge? Seems like six one, half a dozen the other, but if there's a right way I may as well do it that way.
2. Is there a way to set or lock the timing on the MS so that it can be checked with a light and the offset degrees dialled in? Whilst turning the engine over by hand from the fan (lol) I've got it in the ballpark at about 30 deg offset, but I don't know what the MS is aiming for, that was around 10-15deg BTDC.
3. Is 2.2V > 0.25V enough range/contrast for a reliable optical input signal? It seemed to work, but I'm suspicious of voltage drops during cranking, or the clarity of the signal. Should I try a 12V source instead of the 5V, to see if it gives me a better input? How can I see the input in Megalog Viewer?

Anyone reading this, thanks for taking the time. I know you don't have to help and there was a lot of frustration in my first post. Definite good karma for anyone willing to help! I'm still working on getting the settings, unfortunately I forgot to start logging on the attempt that actually worked and the battery is dead. I'll try again tomorrow!

[grom_e30]

under ignition options/ wheel decoder settings 'fixed advance' then there will be a timing for fixed advance and set it to a number you want.

may be an idea to post a msq as i would assume if you are using the dizzy you would be using basic trigger not a trigger wheel.

[noactivationemail]

Original post updated with the tune, still working on a log (er, that didn't come out right).

I can't find the Ignition Options/Wheel Decoder menu, I only have the Lite version of TunerStudio, 2.6.14... surely I can still set my base timing without paying for extra software?

[LAV1000]

Try "Ignition settings".

[jsmcortina]

You might want to consider upgrading to the current MS2/Extra firmware and use "Basic Trigger" mode.

James