EDIS-8 RPMs while cranking: FIXED

[65looter]

A run down of my setup:
V8 Ford | Microsquirt V2
MS2/Extra beta RC3 2.1.0 20090611
EDIS-8 (full package from VR to coils and module)
TunerStudio (v0.989.7)

My wiring is as follow
Pin 30 / OPTOIN+ to PIP
Pin 31 / OPTOIN- to ground
Pin 12 / Ignition 1 to SAW
and of course the rest as in






The problem is: while cranking I get 0 RPMs.

the tests I've done:
EDIS on it owns:
disconnected the Usquirt from the EDIS module (pip and saw)
checked that I had +12V while key is ON and while cranking (OK)
use some "Start Ya Bastard" and cranked the engine over, I got spark as the engine came to live. However as the injectors are not firing, it doesn't stay running that long...
so I can conclude that my EDIS-8 module and VR sensor are working, it wouldn't start otherswise, would it?

EDIS + Usquirt:
reconnected the Usquirt to the EDIS module (pip and saw)
cranked the engine over = 0 RPMs = no spark = no injectors firing = no engine running





I've been through many and many posts on the forum, but I cannot find an answer.
Your help is much appreciated.

[jsmcortina]

I think you'll get better results with
OPTO+ = 12V
OPTO- = PIP

This is similar to the way that MS1 EDIS installs have always been wired and have worked no problem.

James

[65looter]

Hi James,

never seen that one before , I shall give it a try later on (waiting for the battery to recharge....)

I think you'll get better results with
OPTO+ = 12V
OPTO- = PIP

This is similar to the way that MS1 EDIS installs have always been wired and have worked no problem.

James

[jsmcortina]

I've not yet measured it on the bench, but the theory is that the EDIS PIP output is similar to a common-emitter NPN. So it can sink reasonable current, but struggles to source it. So running 12V -> opto -> PIP works, but PIP -> Opto -> ground is unreliable.

James

[65looter]

James,

I have modified the wiring on your recommendation.
I turned the key and the engine started but died within seconds (there was quite a loud backfiring through the tail pipes), after that.... well it's back to square one: no RPMs at cranking.

[65looter]

Could someone tells me how I can run the EDIS off the Usquirt for testing purpose?
When it's not connected, how do you get the injectors to fire?

[jsmcortina]

I used to run EDIS8 on my v2.2 Megasquirt-1 board long ago with pretty much that same input circuit and it worked fine.

I'd suggest you make up an LED tester and connect it 12V to PIP and see what it is doing with the engine cranking.

James

[65looter]

Thanks again James.
I'm sending my EDIS8 module to Mark aka "Mad Professor", he's going to test the module to make sure it's not faulty.

I might have a faulty module... who knows...

I used to run EDIS8 on my v2.2 Megasquirt-1 board long ago with pretty much that same input circuit and it worked fine.
I'd suggest you make up an LED tester and connect it 12V to PIP and see what it is doing with the engine cranking.
James

[65looter]

After reading http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm again, I have noticed the VR sensor gap should be 0.030 to 0.060 inch gap (0.75 mm to 1.5 mm) to the crank wheel teeth.
Mine was between 3 and 3.5mm I have moved the sensor closer to the wheel and it's now near 1mm.

Waiting for the battery to recharge....

the saga continues.....

[65looter]

Just realized a wiring mistake.
from http://www.microsquirt.info/uswiring.htm
I was using Pin 32 VRIN+ instead of Pin 30 OPTION+


Despite this, it's still not working. And with the EDIS on its own, it's not firing at all anymore.

[65looter]

a bit of update,
I've found this link http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V4_ve ... tion_Steps
and I'm not getting "Approx. 2.5V AC when cranking" at the VR sensor

just ordered a new sensor and EDIS8 module of eBay for cheap (but guaranteed to work).

[65looter]

Still no spark.

I've done the following:
removed the Microsquirt.
checked every single plugwires
checked my EDIS harness
checked firing order
got the right polarity of the VR sensor, used a spare sensor with the right wires attached to it (grey and blue)
changed the EDIS module (I got 3 now....)
changed the VR sensor (again got 3)

I'm using some startyabastard to quick start the engine, but I'm not getting a spark at all.


Would a miss-placed VR sensor, in relation to the missing tooth on the trigger wheel cause this behavior of no spark

[jsmcortina]

No spark is entirely an EDIS issue. It is either miswired, broken or the VR sensor polarity is wrong.

James

[65looter]

I went over the wiring several times, it's all good.
Broken? I got 3 modules and all giving me the same results, I doubt I've managed to get 3 faulty ones.
VR sensor polarity, I'm using the original wiring from the sensor to the EDIS module, grey to grey and blue to blue wire.
Now, my engine turn over clockwise, I might have to revert the VR wires,,,, who knows...

I just bought some new plugs (with resistor), I'll check if that's a case of bad plugs in a few days.

No spark is entirely an EDIS issue. It is either miswired, broken or the VR sensor polarity is wrong.
James

[jsmcortina]

I'm not sure what is going on either!

If you come near Birmingham, drop in with the modules and wiring and we can test on my car.

James

[65looter]

James,

I don't think I'll be near Birmingham anytime soon. And as my only car is not running... ...
I'm so puzzled about what's going on to be honest, I'll see how it goes after the plug change.

I'm not sure what is going on either!
If you come near Birmingham, drop in with the modules and wiring and we can test on my car.
James

[65looter]

Just finished swapping the plugs, nothing, no spark at all.
I now have to wait for my oscilloscope to arrive. I'll have a clearer view of the VR signal.

[jsmcortina]

If you can, take the 36-1 wheel off and mount it in a pillar drill or lathe and do some testing that way.

Normally EDIS "just works" with few problems.

James

[65looter]

I have now my new Optima red top battery, and wow it certainly does make a difference when you crank the engine.

However, it's not firing.
I'm on my third EDIS8 module now, yes the third one.... I even got 4 sensors (tried 2)
It doesn't matter how far or how close the sensor is to the wheel
it doesn't matter how you wire it up, blue to blue or blue to grey

it's just doesn't fire

[65looter]

Well it's fixed, I've given a JimStim to emulate the 36-1 pulley. I was able to produced a nice spark.
I changed the VR sensor, changed the VR sensor harness (from sensor to EDIS module) and went back to my first EDIS module.

It FIRED up, ok didn't run for that long, but .... sparks

I'm slowly getting there at getting the engine started. It's a matter of tuning now.