Toyota 1uzfe, stock ignition sensors, please critique

[jsmcortina]

I have never really used the composit logger.

Try it, it's great.

James

[jmswltn]

i am using the stock igniters. i get d14 and d16 blinking while cranking but no spark off the coils (drivers side only tested)
still attempting g1 signal will try g2 tomorrow but i dont believe it will get my coils to fire off.

[devojet]

James I have never had a problem that has required the use of the composite logger since it has been avaliable.

G1 or G2 doesnt matter which one. Have you added 5V pull ups on the spark outputs? The ignitors need a 5v signal to fire the coils. Im pretty sure when you apply 5v to the ignitor input it charges the coil and when you remove it or ground it the coil fires.

[jmswltn]

Have you added 5V pull ups on the spark outputs? The ignitors need a 5v signal to fire the coils. Im pretty sure when you apply 5v to the ignitor input it charges the coil and when you remove it or ground it the coil fires.

actually no i didnt, i installed a very similar setup on the original motor in this truck and it fired off just fine. i was under the impression that both engines shared the same ignitor. this may be some false information that i never physically verified with my own eyes (yet). if this the case i will assume that you had to install this pull up to fire your coil.

on that note were would i connect a pull up resistor? (i still have not received those pictures)
if need be i can fire the other coil off one of the other led they are unused.

[jsmcortina]

James I have never had a problem that has required the use of the composite logger since it has been avaliable.

I use it before startup on all installs.

James

[jmswltn]

Have you added 5V pull ups on the spark outputs?

i am not sure were to put the (220 ohm?) resistor. i am pretty sure it has to be hooked to the 5 volt pad on the proto area but do not know were the other end goes. i am using one output from the zeal board for my second trigger also

[devojet]

Sorry I have been away racing so havent had a chance to send the pictures again. The pull ups need to go between the 5v and the output pin.

[jmswltn]

thank you.
do i use 220, 330, or 1k ohm resistors?.. im getting conflicting information about if the 1k are just for 12v pull up or if it matters what value at all and what the different values do.

im thinking it has to do with the amount of current they can pass?

it tried with 250 ohm (thats what i could come up with) last night on 1 output to see if it would fire and no go

also is it the same with the output on the zeal 5v jumped to output channel/pin?

[rickb794]

Why would such a wonderful motor use 2 distributors for ignition?

Makes me want to hurl. It makes as much sense as using 2 MS's one for each half of the motor.....

If it was mine I'd do a wasted spark ignition with Jeans driver board and a crank trigger

[Matt Cramer]

Why would such a wonderful motor use 2 distributors for ignition?

Makes me want to hurl. It makes as much sense as using 2 MS's one for each half of the motor.....

If it was mine I'd do a wasted spark ignition with Jeans driver board and a crank trigger

Toyota's DIS technology was still in its infancy in the early '90s. It's better than the DLI multiplexing, which is a distributorless system, but doesn't allow overlapping dwell and uses just as many output channels as if they hadn't used the system.

And BMW was using two ECUs on their V12s at about the same time.

[jmswltn]

Matt any insight on the resistor value question I have above?

Why would such a wonderful motor use 2 distributors for ignition?

Makes me want to hurl. It makes as much sense as using 2 MS's one for each half of the motor.....

If it was mine I'd do a wasted spark ignition with Jeans driver board and a crank trigger

I plan on going distributorless asap but its not an option right now.

[Matt Cramer]

250 ohm should definitely work; got a picture of how it's installed?

[jmswltn]

250 ohm should definitely work; got a picture of how it's installed?

No picture with me. I have soldered a 100 and a 150 ohm resistor in series with a small piece of wire wrapped in heat shrink. It is connected from the 5 volt pad on the proto area to ign. It is routed on the bottom side of the ms

[jmswltn]

ok i have spark on d14 only how do i set spark b?

in the dual dizzy setup listed above is says spark a d14

i have spark b hooked up to the normal pin 36 is this correct?

i cant find the option in the ignition options for were spark b goes.

i cant use js10 for spark a because thats my 2nd input

[rickb794]

I don't know for sure but I would look at D16 for your B channel spark

[jmswltn]

i did end up using d16.
it was flashing so i figured why not use it till i get an idea whats going on with the stock output.
i ran it through the zeal and then out to the ign pin with a pull up after removing the igbtout jumper.

i got it to start but runs like it was out of time. i am sure i have spark on both coils now.

after i plugged the factory computer back in and started to drive to go get my timing light, i got a block or so away and my alternator caught on fire.

not sure of the cause yet but there wasnt much damage to speak of as i caught it pretty quick.
i have never seen an alternator have flames coming out of it till now. it probably doesnt help i have it ran directly to the battery. guess ill have to fuse that.. oops could have been way worse

[fast2300tbird]

Sorry to bring up an old thread, But i'm looking for some help on this setup. I have the 3.57 board rather than the 3.0 board you guys were working with. everything is working well except spark is inconsistent and weak. I'm checking spark directly off the coil, both banks work the same. the 3.57 board has a built in 1k ohm pull up resistor on the output of d16 and d14. I've notice you were using 330ohm and I'm thinking of removing the surface mount 1k ohm and trying the 330 ohm. Any thought on if this is moving in the right direction or if I need to try another route? Thanks in Advance

[devojet]

The 1K resistors should be fine, but you could try changing the resistors. Are you sure your Ignitors, coils, rotor buttons, caps and leads are all good?

[fast2300tbird]

I'm testing spark directly off the coil to try an eliminate as much of the secondary side of the ignition as I can. We have a good consistent signal at the coil (checked with LED test light) that being the case I"m thinking I'm not getting enough voltage to charge the coil properly.

[devojet]

Check that your ignitors have a good ground connection. They are grounded through then mounting bolts.

Cheers,

Daniel.