Toyota 1uzfe, stock ignition sensors, please critique

[stevieg]

Setup is a 1992 Lexus LS400 engine, dual ignitors, coils, distributors. All VR Sensors, Dizzy's have a single tooth, Crank sensor has 12 teeth (note not 12-1).

Pic of proposed Wiring

noticed it cuts off the right side so here is link http://upload.3sgtemr2.com/files/1/MS%20Wiring.jpg



and a description of how I "think" everything should be done, with a lot of help from russ at DIYautotune(THANKS!) kit will be arriving any day and wiring commencing next week.

-G- to pin 17
-NE- to pin18
-NE+ will go to pin24 (first ignition input)
-G2 will go back to pin3 which would in turn wire to the lm1815 daughter card?
-IGT1 would go to pin36 via d14 as ignition output1 (R26 top edge)
-IGT2 I would run to pin4 via D16 as ignition output2 (R29 top edge)

Ok, So thats pretty straight forward, Now for the megasquirt mods:

Megasquirt Mods
-VRout to Tsel
-Tachselect to VRIN

Zeal Daughtercard mods (2nd ignition INPUT)
-+12v to S12
-+5v to S5
-GND to SG and ProtoGND
-the lower VR2 hole to pin3,
-The upper vr2 hole to the sensor ground pin17
-Take the vr2out on zeal board and connect it to js10 on the mainboard.



Now for the Tuner Studio settings
-Tach Input/Ignition settings:
Spark mode:Toothed Wheel
Skip Pulses:3
Ignition output capture:Rising Edge
Spark output:Going low
number of Coils:Dual Dizzy
Spark A output pin: D14

Trigger Wheel Settings
Trigger Wheel arrangement:Dual Wheel
Trigger Wheel Teeth:12
Missing teeth:Greyed out
Tooth #1 Angle (deg BTDC):5
Wheel Speed:Crank Wheel
Second Trigger active on:Rising Edge
and every rotation of....:Cam

[devojet]

All looks about right.

Tooth #1 Angle (deg BTDC):60? should be 5. I also suggest you use the G2 sensor instead of G1 as it indicates TDC of Cylinder 1.

Ignition2.bmp

I suggest you use the attached wiring for your outputs to the ignitors, this way there will be some protection for the processor pins. You may need to reduce the size of the 4.7K resistors, anything down to 330R will ie fine. The setting "Spark output:Going low" is correct for the circuit attached but not for what you proposed.

1uzIgnitionout.JPG

Also were did you get the diagram from in your post?

Regards

Daniel.

[stevieg]

Awesome thanks for the info i'll update my first post with the trigger angle and other info. is it possible for you to write out the mod changes required for those circuit updates you posted? i'm not the greatest at reading electrical circuit diagrams (i know the basics but not the greatest at it)

the diagram is a modified version i created using the stock toyota EWD, I cleared out all the non-ignition circuits and made new lines to cross reference


Steve

[devojet]

You need to install the 4.7K resistors from the negative of each LED to a +5v source. This can be done quite easily on the underside of the board as shown in the image below. You only have to add the resistors to D14 and D16 the photo is from another setup.
The resistors connect from the square pad of each LED to the end further away from the LED’s of the 330 ohm resistors (orange-orange-brown).

Resistors.JPG

The following shows how the wires connect between the resistors and the DB37 connector. ignor the wiring in the proto area.

Resistors2.JPG

Hope that helps

Cheers

Daniel.

[stevieg]

OK All wired up but have a couple problems

As listed above i made the appropriate wiring mods but currently using a 330ohm resistor as suggested instead of jumping right to a 4.7k.

During cranking i get a solid SYNC in tuner studio, solid cranking rpm of 180-190rpm, and using an injector test kit i see all injectors are firing so apparently my zeal daughtercard is working great for the rpm signal input so far. Where my problem lies is i get no spark if i do an output test mode it doesnt buz either coil1 or Coil2, I have verified the stock ignitors have power, coils have power etc. At one point this afternoon I had spark but no injectors (due to my not grouping the injector banks together properly. Went off to a meeting and came back to fix the injectors and hopefully hear it fire up but no luck.

also when powering on or off the ms2 unit i do occasionally hear the coils click

Attaching current .msq

Any Ideas?
Steve

[devojet]

The msq looks fine to me. Is the body of the ignitors connected to Ground? Thats all I can think of at the moment.

Cheers

Daniel.

[stevieg]

Yes the ignitors are bolted to the back of the head for now and I verified continuity as well as also tried another set just in case.

Would there be any benefit to changing to a larger resistor on the output circuit?

And just to make sure my wire jumper from d14/d16 is wired like the picture above where it's showing it attached to the -ve side of the led with the 330ohm resistor is also connected. (The second photo of the mods you posted)

[devojet]

I don't think changing the resistors will help. Do you have an osciloscpe you can check the ingnition outputs with?
LED14 and LED16 should turn on when the ignition is on and blank out each time a coil is ment to fire.

[stevieg]

ok got my spark issue all solved, found a cold solder joint on one of the components of d16 and d14 i had connected to wrong pin lol

now i have confirmed injectors all firing using injector test light, have spark on all cylinders, compression is 192psi across the board and i hear it pop but its clearly out of time. I've verified i'm using the g2 cam sensoras its the one firing cyl's 2358.

one thing to note if i select "going low" under ignition settings i lose my tach signal?

steve

[devojet]

"going low" should be correct, but if it works with "going high" then maybe I was wrong. It shouldn't really matter which G signal you use. Are you sure the ignitors are connected to the correct ignition outputs? the igniter/coil that feeds cylinder 1 and 6 should be connected to ignition output 1. maybe try switching the outputs to the igniters.

[stevieg]

welp, looks like it DID need to be set as "going low" but had to change a bunch of things before it would work. A lot of little things were contributing ie spark plugs were bad, rotor&caps were bad, then the engine was so flooded it wouldnt even fire the new plugs consistently.

But it starts and runs now, only let it catch and hit about 500rpm before i turned it off last night (midnight in residential neighborhood lol)

Steve

[devojet]

Steve, that is great to hear . I know what you mean about being in a residential neigbourhood. So that means the info contained in our first couple of posts is corrent then?

Cheers

Daniel.

[jmswltn]

Daniel i know this thread is kind of old. So the pictures are not visible any chance you still have them?

I'm using the zeal board with a 1uz and am trying to trigger the second coil from a spare output on the zeal board..

Any info on this?

[devojet]

Pm me an email address.

Cheers

Daniel

[jmswltn]

here is my msq and logs can you tell me if it looks alright.

1uzfe using factory pickups, dual dist, and zeal board.
no spark condition, smell fuel, d14 and d16 flash when cranking

[devojet]

I emailed you some of the missing pictures. Can you post or send me how you have wire the ignitors. Do you get rpm showing in tunerstudio when you crank the engine?

[devojet]

Had a quick look at the msq and logs. It appears you do get rpm when cranking. The MSQ looks ok, depending on how you wired your ignitors.

Have you pulled a spark plug to check if there is no spark?

[jmswltn]

i havent pulled the plugs to check yet as they are under a couple covers. i get no spit, sputter, or anything even close to firing. it just cranks. i can hook the factory computer back up and it fires right up. i ran the zeal previously in a similar fashion but never used it to fire a coil as i only had to fire one at that time.

i have to figure out the composite logger, are the signals supposed to line up exactly at one point?

igniters are wired directly to ms trigger output and the zeal on off output linked from d14.

[devojet]

Are you using the factory ignitors or are you trying to directly fire the coils?

I have never really used the composit logger.

[jmswltn]

It just came to me, I'm using g1 for my cam signal as it shows in the fsm that this is the left pickup.
In the previous post you stated g2 is for the #1 pickup. Now in the diagram in this thread it says the same as mine does. If this is the case than what degree would I set it at?