No Rpm Input?

[ReaperCustoms]

Hey guys, ok its a V2.2 board running MS Extra 3.25

Wired everything up, This ecu was actually in another car recently using a 36-1 crank wheel and the DIY hall sensor and ran great so I know the ecu is good internally...

On this motor im using the factory Crank angle sensor which is a optical sensor very similar if not the same as the Nissan sensors... Im using one of DIY 54mm 24-2-1 trigger wheels.

The wiring colors on the factory loom matched up with this pinout I found on the DIY site so thats how I wired it up...
Dizzy Side Harness Side Purpose
Red B/W 12v+
White G/B Primary Trigger
Green G/Y Second Trigger
Black Black Ground

I wasnt sure if I should be connecting the white wire from MS's shielded pair to the Primary or secondary trigger so I tried the primary first... crank crank, no rpm so I then tried the secondary same deal...

I thought maybe I needed to fit a pull-up (wasnt sure if this sensor had one or not) so fitted one and once again tried both the primary and secondary and no rpm signal..

I tried setting it in the software as a 12-1 crank driven wheel and a 24-2 cam driven and still no good...

Out of ideas now... Ive attached the stock wiring diagram for the car this CAS is from with the stock ecu and it has me a little confused, seems to have a +12V feed, a earth, a VREF and a signal output?

4ze1fulldiagramdp9-1.jpg

I know someone with one of these cars so ill try get to see it and check the voltages running to the stock cas and confirm the 4ZE1 pinout matches the VG30.

But yea any other ideas would be appreciated?

Regards
-Clint

[ReaperCustoms]

Dw guys, pretty sure ive figured it out... Donno why I didnt see it earlier as the colors in the wiring diagram confirm this. The pinout on the DIY site is wrong for my sensor.

I checked the stock car and with the ignition on I was getting:

Black White = 5v
Green Yellow = 5V
Green black = 12V
Black = Earth

And ive got it wired:

Black white = 12V
green yellow = 5v (secondary trigger)
green black = 5v (primary trigger)
Black = earth

Since I was reading 5v on the stock car, does this mean I need to use VREF on the pull up for this CAS and not 12V or is 12V still fine, is a 1k resistor right? or should i use a 330ohm?

[ReaperCustoms]

Oh and can someone confirm the trigger settings? Do I set it as a "toothed wheel" and 24-2 at cam speed or 12-1 at crank speed, or will both give the same result?

[ReaperCustoms]

Go me, answering all of my own questions, found this:

http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_article ... _discs.htm

So thats the software settings sorted, Does not have info to suit the V2.2 board but im assuming the mods I did to the board to get the 36-1 crank wheel with the hall sensor to work are all thats needed as its basically the same setup.

Now its just a question of do I use a 5V or 12V pull up, does it matter? why?

[Matt Cramer]

Pull up should be the same as the power wire to the CAS - on a Nissan, that's 12 volts.

[ReaperCustoms]

Figured I may as well update this, I checked out the voltage readings on another car with this engine standard...

Turns out the pinout diagram I had used was wrong... I had 12V connected to the signal wire and vice versa... Swapped the wires over and got RPM signal straight away. Didnt actually have to use a pull-up, im guessing I added a pull-up inside the case when I did the mods on the board to make it work with the 36-1 wheel and hall sensor before (Im not sure what I actually did I just followed the instructions)

[jsmcortina]

What is the correct pinout? Do you have a diagram or photo?

James

[ReaperCustoms]

E1 CAS Plug s.jpg

E1 CAS Plug 2 s.jpg

Black/White = Inner Ring Sensor output
Green/Yellow = Outer Ring Sensor output
Green/Black = 12v Feed to sensor
Black = Ground

[MattyA]

It's been a while since this post, but I'm using the same engine and trigger wheel.
The install went fairly well and I have it running, but I don't recall ever seeing a cam signal in the composite logger. I seem to be having trouble with what I suspect is the spark blowing out. I have seperate ls coils and on my install during the testing the spark looked pretty weak. Which has lead me here thinking I might have the sensor polarity backwards? It is setup as mentioned above.
It ran fine N/A but once the turbo was on I continue to have problems with it cutting out very abruptly at about 4K rpm
I've changed injectors and adjusted fueling thinking that was my problem, but I'm fairly sure it's the spark blowing out.
Dwell is at 3.5, it doesn't look like the nice fat spark I'm used to though.


Also if reapercustoms reads this, how did you wire the MS to the tach in the rodeo?

Many thanks.
Matt