Mustang mspnp2, msd 6al2, no start- but fires

[tonawawa]

It runs now!
I reflashed the MS firmware from the DIY website. DIY said they reflashed it also, but I was still having problems. After I downloaded the firmware, MS was loaded with another tune other than that for a stock 5.0, I am still curios to know what tune came with that latest edition of firmware.
After a few failed attempted starts, I plugged in the spout connector and off she went! MSD ignition box hooked up when it started, but I also had it off for awhile during this issue. I think the white smoke is from running rich, and breaking in the new engine.

[hybrid]

There is just a base "tune" that comes with the firmware.
If you set all your other settings right, it should be enough to get started for any engine.

[tonawawa]

There is just a base "tune" that comes with the firmware.
If you set all your other settings right, it should be enough to get started for any engine.

Should I change the ignition table? How would I customize it? with the knock sensor??

I copied the ford Ford Fuel table, and I will further customize it when I can get my car outside.

[hybrid]

DIY had a mustang tune on their website. Not sure if it's still there.
If it is, you could try the ignition map from that tune.

Reality is though, ignition is best done on a dyno really.

[tonawawa]

Could somebody please send me a TS msq for a Mustang 363 NA.
I am getting a real high idle, in fact no idle at all.
Thank you.

[lukep6470]

How high of an idle? It might be a vacuum leak or mechanical setting. If you have an idle valve unplug it or turn off idle control in tunerstudio and see what idle speed you have. If it is still high try closing the throttle stop.

[tonawawa]

It is steady around 1800-2200, then builds. When it is cold it idles around 1000. Once it warms up the idle increases to the point that I have to turn it off. I have to relocate the fan control from the manifold, it seems that is an air pocket there and the adapter I am using.

[jsmcortina]

Check for mechanical issues that are letting in air. As in a previous post, unplug the idle valve and check the throttle blade opening.

One SBF I saw had a mis-installed inlet manifold that was causing a huge air leak.

James

[lukep6470]

Check for mechanical issues that are letting in air. As in a previous post, unplug the idle valve and check the throttle blade opening.

One SBF I saw had a mis-installed inlet manifold that was causing a huge air leak.

James

I had a gasket on one side of my weber manifold slump down when installing it on my 289. It was on the bank with the O2 sensor. The result was that 1 cylinder ran way lean and sucked oil out of the valley. This tuned the rest of the motor to be too rich. This also made it impossible to lower my idle below 850rpm.

In Australia we have an ether based product in a spray can called "Start Ya B@$tard" which really helps in finding vacuum leaks.

[tonawawa]

As soon as the temp hits 160, idle creeps up and up and will not slow down!

[rickb794]

It's getting air somewhere, throttle plate should be closed all the way then opened just enough to keep it from sticking. Throttle cable should have slack in it. Pinch off brake booster hose to check for leaky booster. Check pcv valve has not come apart.
Pull pcv and plug engine side opening , remove oil cap and lay a piece of paper over the hole it should not stick, it should blow off. This checks for internal vacuum leak.

[tonawawa]

It idles pretty good up to 160.. at 160 WUE is 100% , and at 160 PWM duty is now adjusted to 17.2, I had 40....
If I had a vacuum leak, wouldn't it also be noticeable during cold start?
Thank you..

[Matt Cramer]

As soon as the temp hits 160, idle creeps up and up and will not slow down!

What is your PWM idle duty at that point?

[tonawawa]

Is there a way to monitor the PWM idle duty? I haven't viewed the graph while its running..

[Matt Cramer]

Use an idle PWM gauge or check your data logs.

[tonawawa]

It runs good with the IAC disconnected and throttle plate adjusted. It will start after a few attempts but runs well into 200 degrees at a steady 1000 rpms.
- I wonder when the IAC turns off at 160 per MS, if the engines vacuum is sucking it open?
-My fan switch will not operate! the temp sensor in the upper manifold keeps getting an air pocket around it.
Any help is appreciated!

[rickb794]

Might be better to put the fan switch where the thermostat bypass flow will hit it. Secondly there should be no air in your system, your coolant recovery or cap is leaking. The other possibility is head gasket leakage. The cap should be at the highest point in the cooling system or you need a bleeder valve the that point.

[tonawawa]

Would the upper radiator hose be a good location to install a fan switch?
How would a bleeder valve work ? The radiator cap is about level with the intake manifold. I am using a thread adapter for the fan switch which makes it sit up a little higher and it collects air somehow. I hope I don't have any head gasket leak, It doesn't blow much smoke.

[krisr]

In my experience, a recovery system and a few heat cycles will purge air. No need to overthink it.

[tonawawa]

What would be a good recovery system? My overflow is somewhat stock and I am not sure how well it works.