4.9 no iac first start help

[seijirou]

Hemi is right, I didn't catch that.

That trigger angle won't work. Pull the SPOUT on your TFI system out, and adjust the distributor to 10 degrees. Then put the SPOUT back in, and set megasquirt to a trigger angle of 10 degrees. Then with your fixed timing setting of 15 or whatever it was, use the timing light to verify that you get 15 (or again, whatever your fixed timing is set to) on the crank.

[rickb794]

I prefer to use the TFI only for an input signal, this provides a high level signal that will not easily be affected by noise.

Then use the MS output to run the coil, this will give MS full ignition control.

If you use the TFI for output be sure to set the fixed timing higher than the base timing (10°) I use 15 or 20 so I am sure the MS has control

[Jamesl]

The Ford TFI ignition can be tricky. I"m using the TFI system on my '65 Econoline, with a 240 ci engine. It's basically identical to the Ford 4.9/300 except for stroke. The TFI ignition provides the RPM signal for my older DIYPNP v1.1 Microsquirt board and ms2extra-release-3.4.2. I"m using the dizzy and TFI module from a late '80s f150 -- I bet identical to yours.

I got a good RPM signal running PIP through the Opto+ input with a 1k ohm, 12v pullup and a stable Spout signal by running it out of Wled (Spark A output pin), also with a 1k ohm,12v pullup. I set Spark Output to "Going Low." I'm using the gray Push Start TFI module, which I believe was standard on the '89 f150, and I set Dwell to Fixed Duty, 50%. Spark mode is Basic Trigger and all other settings were pretty standard. Trigger angle offset should be 10 degrees, not 18.

I found that both PIP and Spout needed the 12v pullup to work with my system and give a stable tach input & output. the Spark output of "going low" was also opposite of some of the info I had read. Your Ms3 board may work differently, but getting the PIP and Spout right is key to everything.

I've also found you don't need idle air control to start & run. IAC is best for idling when you have AC or other electric loads switching off and on. You really don't need it for a cold start as warmup enrichment handles that.

[twinturbor]

Thank you all for the help. Its looking like I need to switch my ignition stuff around. The dizzy is at 10, so I will pull the spout and change the trigger to the coil. Could I see your fuel map on the 240. I'm curios as to what it looks like. Its pissing all over me up in Washington so I will have some results posted in a few days. And thank you all again for the help.

[Jamesl]

I'm using throttle body injection on a smaller motor, so I doubt my map would help. And I'm still tuning it. The base map that comes with the Extra software will get you started and idling if your constants are correct. It's a pretty good ballpark for a first start.

[twinturbor]

So I have another potentially dumb question. I moved spark a from the spout wire and moved it to the negative on the coil for control and now I have no spark. I've been looking at the mauals but I'm having trouble with the info for a tfi setup with direct coil control

[twinturbor]

So I have another potentially dumb question. I moved spark a from the spout wire and moved it to the negative on the coil for control and now I have no spark. I've been looking at the mauals but I'm having trouble with the info for a tfi setup with direct coil control. I have verified I have power to the coil and the tfi module and I still have a good rpm signal

[twinturbor]

So it looks like if I want to directly control the coil I need to move the jumper wire from the js10 to the igbtin spot. Can anyone confirm this. I have to pay to have this done so I want to be sure.

[seijirou]

igbtOUT is what drives a coil directly.

igbtIN is for the connection between the CPU and the coil driver circuit on the board.

Check out this link.

http://www.msextra.com/doc/general/spar ... .html#high

[slow_hemi6]

Have you looked inside at the board? The manual shows JS10 as NOT being the normal Spark A Output Pin setting for TFI. The normal Spark A Output Pin setting is LED Spark/D14. Did you get some instructions saying how to set up the ignition options? The V3.57 manual already shows Q16 fitted and a jumper(with resistor) between cpu pin7 (sparkA/D14) and IGBTin. If you were to go direct coil control the pullup from S12 to the middle pin of Q16 would not be needed. The rest of the circuit should be in place.

[twinturbor]

Well it looks like my board isn't setup right for what I have so who should be the best person to contact to get this done? I just want to send it to someone to really get it set for what I have. I bought a pre build unit because I'm not good at this kind of thing. I'm feeling discouraged at the moment due to my lack of tech knowledge and skill. I've only used piggy back units up to this point and I'm wondering if I should have just kept going on that route

[seijirou]

I see now. Do you have a MS2 with the 3.57 board from DIYAutotune?

In that case yes you use JS10 as your spark out, and you do connect that to IGBTIN. You connect IGBTOUT to IGN. Then you solder the BIP373 in the Q16 space, which is on the heat sink bar and will be empty.

Are you concerned about soldering the BIP373?

It's pretty easy, and you could do it with practice. You can get "bread board" from a radioshack which is basically just a board with a bunch of holes in it. Order up 10 BIP373 transistors from Mouser, they're cheap. Whip out the soldering iron and practice. By the time you've soldered down 2 or 3 I'm sure you'll have the hang of it.

[slow_hemi6]

Peter Florance is in Virginia. http://www.pftuning.com/services/megasq ... pport.html

[twinturbor]

Yes I have the 3.57 from diyautotune. I can solder wires but I don't have a good iron and all the RadioShack stores closed around here. I'm not very good with electronics so I'm wanting to destroy my board. I got this unit because the description said it would work with my ford tfi and other sensors and I'm sure it will with some tweeking but I know my limits. And on top of that I got no instructions for anything other than the generic wiring diagrams. Injector bank one doesn't work on this unit either but it took me so long to get all the parts for this build the ecu was already out of warranty by the time I got it installed.

[seijirou]

Yes I have the 3.57 from diyautotune. I can solder wires but I don't have a good iron and all the RadioShack stores closed around here. I'm not very good with electronics so I'm wanting to destroy my board. I got this unit because the description said it would work with my ford tfi and other sensors and I'm sure it will with some tweeking but I know my limits. And on top of that I got no instructions for anything other than the generic wiring diagrams. Injector bank one doesn't work on this unit either but it took me so long to get all the parts for this build the ecu was already out of warranty by the time I got it installed.

Can you post a close up picture of your board? Front and back.

Also you said you made some adjustments. Please post the current tune MSQ file.

[twinturbor]

Here is my board

[twinturbor]

R57 is gone per the instructions but it has a 201 instead of a 331 in the r26 spot. That's all I can identify from the tfi mod instructions. I couldn't see ign output

[slow_hemi6]

That is correct. The first thing you notice is that there is no Q16 installed. That means the board is not built for TFI or High Current coil switching. I would say it's just a std MS2357C.
On DIY's website when you look at that product it says in the description,

5 volt ignition output (JS10 jumpered directly to pin 36) for EDIS, Bosch 124, or GM HEI ignition control
Slot for installing a BIP373 (not included) for direct coil control

So that explains everything really.

[turbo conversion]

DIY will modify your MS if they built it for a very nominal fee and a quick turn around.

Contact them via email and they will give you instructions on what to do.

David

[seijirou]

I don't see anything obviously damaged. Doesn't mean nothing is wrong though. How did you determine Inj1 is dead?