Help with first wasted spark project

[Tonyorlo]

Well I made some progess today. I upgraded my firmware, and now the fixed advance # is the same as what the timing light shows after making adjustments. With the firmware update, my CTS is reading zero, and the AFR is up to 25. Something is up with the firmware, and I am completely lost on what? Ill post the current tune, any thoughts or opinions would be a huge help!

Thanks for the help with everything so far!

[rickb794]

You may need to recalibrate your sensors.

In Tuner Studio under the "Tools" drop down menu,
Calibrate TPS
Calibrate MAP
Calibrate Battery voltage
Calibrate Thermistors
Calibrate AFR tables <O2 sensor setup

Any time Firmware is upgraded these calibrations need to be checked

[Tonyorlo]

Got everything calibrated.

The engine fires up if I give it a little bit of throttle. It will idle at 12 deg BTDC, but if I try to increase the rpm the timing retards. The timing change does not show up on tuner studio, but with the light it does. I have a data log, I will post it later tonight.

Thanks for any help!
Tony

[Tonyorlo]

heres a datalog of one of the runs

[Tonyorlo]

What does the spark hardware latency do exactly? I dont think its the solution to my problem, but the description says you can add a value if the timing retards with increased rpm.

[Tonyorlo]

Also I noticed my TPS going to -25% during cranking. The values on it calibrated backwards, so the larger number was at closed and the smaller number was at WOT. It seemed to work fine so I did not mess with it.

[old guy]

Your tps is wired backwards. Try swapping the 5V and ground and recalibrate. The way it is now, at idle the the MS thinks it is wide open and dumping a ton of fuel.

[Tonyorlo]

I thought the same thing, but after calibrating it how it's currently wired it worked ok. Going negative while cranking is confusing me though. It is grounded through the signal ground to the ecu. I will flop the wires and see if that fixes the going negative problem.

[Tonyorlo]

Switched the voltage and ground leads and it now is calibrated correctly. When cranking, it shows around 38% open. Any thoughts?

Also I'm still scratching my head at why the timing would retard when revving off of idle.

I am including a datalog of the TPS problem and the current tune.

[hybrid]

You might need to play around with hardware latency?
Or maybe your crank sensor is wired backwards or something?

Have you set a fixed timing and tested it?

[Tonyorlo]

I did add a value to the hardware latency and didn't see a change. I did not try big numbers, only like 1 or 2. Now the trigger wired backwards is a possibility and would make sense why it would be acting backwards. I'll need to check that tomorrow.

I did check the timing with a light. During cranking and while it ran. After I got the #1 tooth angle correct then the fixed# is what I saw at idle. I did have the cranking advance # the same as the fixed # though. I assume after it cranked and was running it would go to the fixed #.

[hybrid]

Yes that's correct.
If you change from "Use Table" to fixed and set 10 degrees fixed it should stay at 10 after cranking no matter what the RPM.

[Tonyorlo]

I have the wires correct from the ecu to the crank sensor. One thing I did not install was a pull up resistor. I was almost sure it was built in to the sensor, but I guess I was mistaken. I will add that today and see if it changes anything.

[hybrid]

Mine didn't work at all without the pullup, so I would be surprised if that's it.

What about the input capture setting? Rising vs Falling edge.

[Tonyorlo]

From what I have read, everyone says the same thing you did. So I doubt that's it either. Matt from diyautotune suggested before that I set it up with a VR input. I need to do that and check the POTs positions. I currently have it set to falling edge.

There is so much information on all this stuff that it's really confused me on what's correct to do.

The engine does not want to start now, I think the TPS going to 35% during cranking might be a problem. I have turned off the IAC and the TPS still does it.

[hybrid]

35% shouldn't bother it. The only way TPS should affect it is the flood clear setting (where it will stop injecting fuel). But that's normally set to around 70% I think.

However, the reason it's changing to 35% may also be the reason for it not starting. Is it only TPS that's affected, or do other sensors sharing the 5V VREF change too? Coolant? IAC?

[Tonyorlo]

The 5v ref is being used for the TPS and it's also used for the crank sensor. Which would make sense why I could be having problems with both of them. I understood that it was ok to use that for the crank sensor too.

[hybrid]

The 5v ref is being used for the TPS and it's also used for the crank sensor. Which would make sense why I could be having problems with both of them. I understood that it was ok to use that for the crank sensor too.

Yes it's fine to share. Your coolant and air temp sensors use 5V too. How do they look when cranking?
I don't suppose your crank trigger is shorting the 5V to ground when it activates and that's dragging the voltage down?

[Tonyorlo]

That's very possible. I will check that later when trying to start. Matt from diyautotune suggested I change it to a VR input. I need to try that today.

[Tonyorlo]

You were right hybrid, the voltage was the problem. I threw the charger on while cranking and there was no change in TPS. I really need to get a battery tender because this vehicle sits for long periods of time.

Changed the sparkoutput to going low and the timing now stays at the fixed # when I try to rev the engine. It backfires through the TB if I try to give it any throttle though. It pulls decent vacuum at idle 12-18", but it was running rough. I clearly have to work on the startup settings because I have to give it throttle to start. Any thoughts on why it backfires? I noticed that the VE spikes while it runs.

I have high Z injectors, they are 30lb from a Ford Turbocoupe. Bosch is the manufacture I think. I have the current limit at 100% and the time at 25.5ms.

To use the FIDLE for the tach, where do I need to jump the 12v+ to? Ive looked through the schematics and I have no been able to find a pin for it.

I wil inlcude the current tune and a datalog of the run.