Just Got my microsquirt running! badly

[grom_e30]

mainly its config settings like inputs and outputs that should not be changed on a running engine. oh never change any of the calibrations i once tried to calibrate the tps on a running engine and that made the ecu very unhappy, a quick firmware reflash and all was well again

[dave36]

as before thanks for your help, set out today to check vacuum leaks, none found! flashed the firmware, loaded me last file and she started, a little smoother than before but still way too fast, revving at 2000+
going through all my settings I found that all seemed to be ok, other than the fiddle - then remembered that was one I had changed, from none to on/off, changed it to 2/3 wire and started fine, a blip when pressing the pedal and then rpm rising well but sure timing is off! once back to idle, revs decreased slowly and then stalled.
IAT sensor cleaned (replacement on order) temp reading better but still too low, exhaust needs another muffler.
please have a look at my tune and come back to me.
I know that with a narrow band I am not going to race the car, smooth reliable running will do me!

[grom_e30]

you really need to get all your sensors feeding the ecu proper data, map sensor is better but i think the calibration is still slightly off do you have a link to a data sheet for the sensor or a part number for it?

air temp is still off -12c so this is causing the ecu to add an extra 13% or so of fuel.

do you have a specific reason to be using alpha-n (tps load). using speed density (once you get map and mat fixed) will prob be a better fit for your engine.

get the alternator sorted as well.

do you actually have the idle control valve wired up?

you mentioned timing being of what are you using for ignition? edis? have you conformed its correct with a timing light?

and as mentioned before a narrow will make the whole tuning a lot more difficult.

[dave36]

you really need to get all your sensors feeding the ecu proper data, map sensor is better but i think the calibration is still slightly off do you have a link to a data sheet for the sensor or a part number for it?
it is bosch 0281002119, data sheet quotes 20-250 kPa and 396-4610mV

air temp is still off -12c so this is causing the ecu to add an extra 13% or so of fuel.
will be replaced

do you have a specific reason to be using alpha-n (tps load). using speed density (once you get map and mat fixed) will prob be a better fit for your engine.
that is the setting I was given on base nap for this engine

get the alternator sorted as well.
New cable with soldered ring connectors are on order for battery to starter and starter to Alt.

do you actually have the idle control valve wired up?
Yes and if I pull the plug the engine stops

you mentioned timing being of what are you using for ignition? edis? have you conformed its correct with a timing light?
Yes its EDIS, Light, not tried that as yet, I have been trying to find what advance I need to set

Setup instructions??
Pin 31OPTOIN- is connected to ground when EDIS is used, should that be sensor or vehicle ground? no clue given and not shown on circuit diagram - at present it is wired to the engine block.

I don't intend changing any further wiring unless it is needed, so next step will be to tidy and wrap the loom as the vehicle wiring has to be replaced once the engine install is complete.

and as mentioned before a narrow will make the whole tuning a lot more difficult.
Top of my birthday wish list!

[grom_e30]

try for your map calibration : 0v = -1.9kpa 5v = 272 kpa

you may want to read up on speed density for fueling it is usually is better mannered and more consistent, i would only use alpha-n as a last resort, its great if you spend all your time above 50% throttle but rough on a road car.

if you are using edis i guess you have the trigger in the back of the flywheel and this can only go on one way so the timing should be correct.

you can use the opto input for edis but its not the preferred/recommended way of doing it, you are best to use the vr input see here: http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/Mic ... .4-89.html if you are going to use the opto id ground it to the sensor ground.

http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/Mic ... e-3.4.html thats the current manual for your ecu so may be an idea to have a read

[rickb794]

Alpha N is best for situations where you can't get a good map signal. If you have a 4+ cylinder motor with a common plenum intake Speed Density is your friend.

You need to verify that you are getting the EDIS base timing of 10°. Then verify that the MS is able to provide commanded timing with SAW connected..

[dave36]

not in the garage tonight, so am I reading this right?
remove pin 30 option+ to PIP, connect VRIN- pin 33 to PIP and connect VRIN1+ to X which I see as sensor +, currently connected to Pin 6 of EDIS????

[jsmcortina]

and connect VRIN1+ to X which I see as sensor +, currently connected to Pin 6 of EDIS????

Erm no. The X means it isn't connected to anything.

James

[dave36]

Fed up with computers!
changed AIT tonight, same reading as before, then saw that coolant was also reading -20! started the engine. no change tickover dropping then stalling.
Change the fuel setting off alpha burned it an restarted, much smoother and ran for much longer, lots of missing and popping on acceleration. Opened up the basic settings and the engine and sequential settings to have a look. computer froze, engine stopped required fuel settings showing zero, not actually changed anything, but every attempt at trying to get the settings back resulted in massive flooding and now the tune will not load at all and tuner studio tells me that my backup is full of errors

[grom_e30]

are you using a usb to serial adapter? if so what brand. this does not sound like normal with settings changing on there own ect.

[dave36]

I replaced the laptop with one that has a serial port, problem is Microsoft, turned off auto select and mouse hover but the d*** thing still manages to randomly drag and drop all on its own, unfortunately it must have done that without my noticing before I hit burn!
stupid sensor readings, both thermistors are wired as per ford spec - is there any chance that they are polarity sensitive and incorrectly wired? checked all 3 (I new and the two installed) on a cold engine and got the same resistance reading on all 3, so presume something else is altering the microsquirt output?
I have started manually trying to enter settings while reading the setup manual. all my older msq files were created with the old firmware!

[hybrid]

Does it have a trackpad?
Try disabling it and using a mouse... some trackpads seem to sense things while you're typing. It's annoying as hell.

[grom_e30]

did you ever calibrate the temp sensors?

[dave36]

Gone back to basics, disconnecting everything, reconnecting and checking readings one by one. I shall be using the base settings for the microsquirt as supplied. with fuel and ignition disconnected.
I have measured the resistance of the temp sensors in the kitchen, with thermometer and multimeter and they are correct with tunerstudio ford setting. on reconnecting I shall check the wires for voltage and compare my readings to the table.

Will come back once everything checks out and the engine starts - hopefully! with everything perfect I should be able to look at warm up enrichment and so on.
I have also double checked all the sensor grounds and they all now connect to pin 20!

I will check back in the next few days - really busy at the mo preparing for Glastonbury festival, so dog tired when I get to the garage, not good for idiot and wiring!