Megasquirt Support Forum (MSEXTRA)

I have a wilson racing ms2 that was built and ran with the direct coil control mod, wire #36 removed from TFI and ran directly to neg side of coil. Are there any corresponding mods done internally that allow this to happen?

I recently received it back from a repair to injector drivers and have lost spark as far as I can tell. A firmware update was completed as well. I have gone over my tuner studio settings and they are the same as before.

old firmware was ms2extra beta 3.2.1

I have succesfully tested fuel pump, injectors and iac with the new test features but can not get spark out of the coil. Coil and tfi are known good and ran in january.

Now I am being told megasquirt can not/should not drive a coil?

I am trying to get some unbiased answers, i have no datalogs to attach

Can't open your MSQ right now.

Look at jumpering and TS settings for spark out. The two must match.

Which is it wired for, js10 or D14?

Did you remove the TFI pull up resistor (s12 to ign)? If not you need to. I'm driving mine directly with a vb921 and dwell set to 3ms at 14v, keeps the coil from drawing more than 6.5 amps per charge so as not to burn up the transistor, car runs great all the way to 11psi. Dwell setting must match the coil or you will let the smoke out.

@ Rickb before the repair it was d14. I purchased as a pre assembled unit.

@twistedmetal I have never seen inside the case. I sent unit out because it was dropping injectors, I got it back and have no spark.

So I am clear, there IS a deviation from standard tfi wiring inside a squirt with direct coil control.

Both TFI and direct coil control use the high current IGBT driver, the only difference is the TFI uses an additional pull up resistor and fixed dwell settings, the direct coil uses a set dwell

I have removed the squirt from the car. I have verified pin 36 goes to Q16 on 3.0 board 2005, i would say it is blue. On the under side there is a resistor covered in hot glue that I can not identify.

The person who did the repair said nothing was touched outside of a bad flyback resistor (3 legged) and replacing a knock off map sensor with a MAPDADDY. I can visually see the difference in the hot glue application.

I am inclined to believe it is a software issue but the only difference between the two files are marginal tuning as I was fighting injectors dropping.

Can you post pictures of the board front and back? If it is the one I'm thinking of, you just nip one side of the resistor and heat shrink the whole thing or remove it completely. Then you change your dwell settings to standard dwell, 3ms dwell (it helps to know the coil's resistance and inductance, 3ms is probably safe), 1ms spark duration (unless you know the coil's duration), if you are feeding Q16's output directly to the neg of the coil it will fire when commanded.

All i am trying to accomplish is whether or not im being jerked around. The gentleman who repaired it is telling me he tested it and it works as a tfi so he says, but will not fire a coil. I will admit that I am in way over my head, that is why I purchased an assembled unit.

As far as jumpers, the only place I see them is on the small board that sits on top, section JP1 and none are jumped.

That q16 does not look like a BIP373 ignition driver. I can't see any ID marks on it either. If it's not a coil driver then maybe that is why whomever is saying it can't drive a coil direct.

Ultimately I sent the squirt back to the repair man. There was an igniter on the board but the wire connecting the ground to pin 40 was broken and had to be repaired.

Now it will start, rev up to almost 3k and then die with a sputter or two around 300 rpm like it wants to keep going but cant.

Have you re-calibrated your MAP sensor for the new sensor type on the mapdaddy?

I had some help over the weekend. Someone had the presence of mind to check for voltage at the injectors. There was 12.0 volts on the red wire to ground as expected. There was also 12.0v on the white wires to ground. That can't be right.

I have gone ahead and removed the squirt and old 60 pin harness from the vehicle. I have a new blank 60 pin connector to rebuild a new harness.

As I have been asked many times to probe the 60 pin connector while running and give values, so I plan on mounting squirt where the back seat used to go in a 74 pinto.

So far I have 2 questions: With the tfi modification and no radio ever going in the vehicle, do I still need the "foil" shielded wire for the tfi module?
Will i have vacuum response issues with 15 feet of hose to the msq?

Any advise/tips are welcome and appreciated.

Are you measuring that voltage with the injectors still connected?
If so, you will measure voltage on both wires because you can still measure voltage through the injector coils. Unplug the injectors to test.

But also, the other side of the injectors will not be grounded (which activates the injector) until the ECU commands it.