First trip around the block

[Onefast66nova]

I have a 78 malibu wagon I recently put an 98 LS1 in. Attached is the MSQ and a data lof from my first trip around the block. I used autotune for part of it and the more I drove the better it ran. Anything stick out that I have totally screwed up. Also I am running E85 but im only at a E50 curently. It is a microsquirt and a TH350 trans. sorry I had to trim a lot of the fat out of the data log file. I can get more logs if someone is realy bored and wants to look at more lines lol. Thanks in advance Bill

[Onefast66nova]

Any ideas what could be the popping under wot. Seems like it's back firing out the exhaust I'm thinking fuel cause autotune seems to have been helping


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[ChevelleFan]

I'm no expert, but a couple things..

1) General Settings --> Incorporate AFR target: set to Include AFR target

2) Fuel Settings --> EGO control, you have it enabled only above 7500 rpm, and only below 90kpa.

I dont have a log viewer on my work computer, so couldn't look at it.

this looks like a turbo setup? what's handling the ignition?

-Dave

[rickb794]

Plug condition? (May be black?)

I read that the LS (smart) coils if over dwelled will fire un-commanded.

[Onefast66nova]

No turbo setup it is a stock ls1. Ign is also controlled by the micro. I will look at those settings after I get done mowing. Thanks for everything so far that helps explain the popping under wot.


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[ChevelleFan]

If it's not a turbo, your VE/AFR/Ignition tables should be reworked. On the kpa Axis (y-axis), they should only top out at 100kpa, not 300. Scale the tables from 20-100. This will give you finer resolution. Keep the values consistent with each other on the the AFR and VE tables.

-Dave

[Onefast66nova]

Ok I got this tune from sloppy mechanics wiki. This if my first efi setup and has been a huge learning curve from a carb. I was surprised it started first time to be honest lol


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[Onefast66nova]

Ok i changed the settings and now trying to scale down the tables. Is there a quick way to change it from 300 down to 100 kpa without messing up the table


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[Onefast66nova]

I figured it iut about the table. I have posted a new MSQ with the changed settings. Pouring down rain so unable to drive but still starts and idles in garage. Thanks again for all the help.

[ChevelleFan]

That looks better. Let's see a pic of the wagon..

-Dave

[Onefast66nova]

It is a work in progress so far it runs and have driven about 10 miles so far. It is an Astro van fuel pump and pick-up from a 4.3 mfi. Astro van hydroboost and steering shaft from a jeep xj. I am using Holley swap pan, motor mounts and 1 7/8 primary headers. All for perfect btw. Bolted to stock th350 with shift kit for now as I have a 4L80e on the stand and a 8.8 rear from an explorer to install next winter. A lot of different parts but all work great. Will have a/c as soon as I get all the fittings as well. Anyone want any details of parts used just let me know. Thanks for all your help installing seats from a pt cruiser this weekend or next week and a center console and shifter from a 08 Grand Prix


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[Onefast66nova]

So went to move the car around tonight and noticed after I changed the table scaling and the incorporate afr it surges and dyes when I put it in gear and give it gas to move. I will try and get an msq this weekend as I will be installing seats lol. Also gonna try autotune when I'm able to get computer running again.


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[rickb794]

Always start tuning with the hot idle, get the motor good and hot. Thermostat must be open.
Make sure you are out of any trim areas WUE ASE etc.
You should not be using any of these for hot idle, and you cant tune a cold motor.
You tune a hot motor and then adjust the trims to get it to run cold.
To tune idle first disable closed loop idle control. Set idle speed manually
Disable O2 correction, & always tune on a fully warmed motor.
Add 1 or 2 degrees in the spark table below your target idle speed.
(this will help the motor recover from a sag, especially automatic trans)
Check that WUE ends at no less than 100% and at a temp slightly lower than tstat opening
Make all the cells used for normal idle (a square of 9 cells) in the lower left of your VE table the same number.
Start the motor and adjust the throttle stop so the motor will run steady 700 - 900 rpm.
Then highlight all the cells in the lower left corner, and use the up or down arrows to change them.
Adjust to make the motor happy not shooting for a specific AFR.
(many try to set at 14.7, few if any motors will idle there)
You want the smallest number that provides a smooth stable idle (lean best)
Note the AFRs in that area and change your AFR table so Auto Tune does not change them back.
(I lock out those cells when using Auto Tune.)
Another reason to adjust the AFR table in the idle area is O2 correction will try to steer AFRs in that direction
Then you can make final adjustments to the individual cells to fine tune.
Always make final tuning adjustments on a fully warmed up motor (thermostat open).
Then if auto put trans in gear and fine tune again (different cells).

Now you can enable closed loop idle and return the throttle stop to just barely open.
I set the throttle stop to just barely open because gack from the PCV will collect around the blade opening and close it up over time.
Not closed so far it sticks (if using closed loop idle).

All of the other adjustments use the hot idle settings as a base and modify them for different conditions.
Now once a day you have the chance to make observations for altering WUE settings.
Also cranking squirts and ASE

[panel]

rick......this post above should be a sticky

[rickb794]

It is on my computer!

I put that together a while back because this question comes up often.