MS2 V3.0 - About to begin wiring installation

[frogcow]

my jumpers are as follows:

JS10 --------> IGBTIN
IGBTOUT ---> IGN
VRIN --------> TACHSELECT
TSEL -------->VROUT

R57, Q20, D8, - All Submitted
R39 Submitted / Jumpered
R43, Q16 Installed

[frogcow]

Here is a pic of my board, it was my first assembly. I have a stim but I did not carry out the modification to check the ignition circuit.

[frogcow]

Just to confirm I am getting 12v on the positive side of the coil but not across it.
Appreciate input

[rickb794]

What about with the MS unplugged?

Something is grounding the negative side of the coil, is it getting hot?

Q16 tab shorted to the heat sink?

[LAV1000]

For wiring, I would like to it like this:

[frogcow]

Okay I will look into that. Thanks

It seems the coil is grounding itself through the fuel pump ground. The fuel pump works fine and pressure is good. I am almost tempted to make my own relay board but I might try your changes first.

[LAV1000]

If you want to make your own relay board, check this topic
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic ... 94&t=66334

[frogcow]

I have made a silly mistake. I have repopulated the fuse box wiring terminals however I have used the thicker gauge wiring in the relay control circuit instead of the power supply circuit and also have the battery feeding the power circuit and the switched 12v feeding the control circuit.

Its difficult working with the oem fuse box, it would be good if there was an off the shelf panel available with say four or six relays, the relay board would be good if it just focused on the power and control circuit.

[DaveEFI]

All a board with multiple relays would do is move the connections to a different position. Except perhaps for a common power rail and ground. But then you may not want a common power source or ground. You can buy relay bases which clip together. Relays which take a fuse. As well as ready made units. Google vehicle wiring - there are lots of suppliers.

[frogcow]

Since my last post I have removed the oem fuse/relay box, removed all the wiring, and reinstalled in accordance with the last wiring diagram. The only exceptions are I have upgraded the wiring on the switched side to cope with 20A and I have moved the 12v supply to the MS to come off the end of the switched 12V circuit.

The 50Watt 40 ohm resistor arrived and I have installed that into the iac pwm valve ground wire.

I have tested with a dmm and confirmed I have 12v on the positive side of the coil when cranking. I have put a timing light on the main lead from the coil to the distributor and it flashes once every two seconds.

At least I can get a flash from the timing light. So I am getting a form of spark now.

[frogcow]

Please find most current wiring diagram.
I attempted to start the car today and took a log, see attached. Also see the latest msq. ( Dwell appears to max out and then there seemed to be a power cycle off, screen went red temporarily.

I am working on my electrical troubleshooting ability however I have more of a mechanical background. Would appreciate any guidance on how to carry out process of elimination of a no spark situation.

I tested the coil (oil filled) (brand new) with a dmm and got 13 and 3 ohms across the primary and secondary windings.

I could upgrade Tunerstudio to a paid version if this will help.

Lastly I am using an inductive type timing light to check for spark on the plug wires, I may get between one and three actual flashes from the timing light in five seconds of cranking.

I have a lumpy intake cam, I did have it idling on the stock computer a few weeks ago.

Thanks for your input

[rickb794]

Pull the fuel injector fuse and see if it will run on spray cleaner?

Sounds like you are getting resets? Need to figure out what is causing them?

Wait, I opened your MSQ and found this

"Serial Signature MSII Rev 2.9000"

For best results, Please install the current version of EXTRA code (3.4.2)

http://www.msextra.com/downloads/

Read the setup manual first http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/Megasqui ... Up-3.4.pdf

Section 6.7 Upgrading from MS2/BG

I recommend starting over on the software side, start a completely new project in TS. Do not try to save anything from the old setup.

Remember the prompts disable the ignition and pull the injector fuse before updating firmware. Have fully charged batteries and patience.
You will have to restart the MS a couple of times as all layers of firmware will be updated, serial monitor, bootloader, and firmware.

Or quit reading the Extra manual and move over to the B&G forum for help.


Avoid the common pitfalls, Read this before start http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic ... 01&t=65757
Avoid the common pitfalls, Read this before start http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic ... 01&t=65757
Avoid the common pitfalls, Read this before start http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic ... 01&t=65757
Avoid the common pitfalls, Read this before start http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic ... 01&t=65757
Avoid the common pitfalls, Read this before start http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic ... 01&t=65757
Avoid the common pitfalls, Read this before start http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic ... 01&t=65757

[frogcow]

I can confirm that the MS2 was assembled according to the Megamanual hence why it had B&G Code.

I have loaded the latest ms2 extra firmware 3.4.2 and upgraded Tunerstudio.

I have attached the new msq.

Still no spark from coil. Is it because of the manual I used for assembly?

[LAV1000]

You need this one for the manual;
http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/MS2 ... e-3.4.html

What type of coil are you using ?
What type of coil output are you using on the ms2 v3.0 ?

[frogcow]

Yes I realise this now, When you google MS2 assembly the Megamanual shows up and I didnt assume there would be more than one assembly manual.

I have just read on another forum that my coil, a c80 is not suitable for electronic ignition. It was designed for points. So this is what I will change next.

[rickb794]

Yes I realise this now, When you google MS2 assembly the Megamanual shows up and I didnt assume there would be more than one assembly manual.

I have just read on another forum that my coil, a c80 is not suitable for electronic ignition. It was designed for points. So this is what I will change next.

A points coil will work fine, something with a lower primary resistance will give a hotter spark.

I don't recommend the crazy low resistance coils made for CD ignitions.

[LAV1000]

Yes I realise this now, When you google MS2 assembly the Megamanual shows up and I didnt assume there would be more than one assembly manual.

I have just read on another forum that my coil, a c80 is not suitable for electronic ignition. It was designed for points. So this is what I will change next.

Since you mentioned the BIP373 I assumed you did use it for the ignition coil.
Your "points" coil will do fine whit a BIP373, be careful whit hooking up.
You might use a big 12V lightbulb for test.
If dwell gets far to much (wrong setting) then your coil wil be damaged.

[frogcow]

I will install a HEI CC215 coil, the resistance readings across this coil is 0.9ohms compared with 3ohms for the c80 coil.
I will install a 5amp fuse in the coil positive line and a 15 amp fuse in the fuel pump positive line before I do this.

I have reread the megamanual (assembly) and Hardware manuals and a few things caught my attention.

Step 50 of the Assembly (Megamanual) I interpreted it as "install all the circuits for Hall, Coil negative and VR" then select the one you would like to use through jumpers. I installed all three and jumpered to use only the VR, is that what was meant or was I only supposed to install Hall and VR, or Coil negative triggering and VR?

I also measured resistance between the bip373 and heatsink and got infinte ohms. My board looks good, no visible damage, both Q12 and Q9 have 58K ohms resistance between them and the heatsink.

Finally in the Hardware manual one setting I had wrong was I did not double the degrees for tooth#1 angle so I had 60 instead of 120 degrees. (because it is cam it apparently needs to be in crank degrees).

Will update in the morning

[DaveEFI]

There are two tach signal input circuits - called opto and VR. For that tach signal you select the best one for your setup. The opto input was really designed to take the tach signal direct from the coil on a fuel only MS. But can be altered for other things - like say a hall cam sensor. The VR input is generally used these days for any type of crank sensor (VR or hall or optical) as the main tach input.

Which tach input circuit you use is selected by solder links on a V3 board.

[rickb794]

Please stop reading the MegaManual that is not the recommended source for info.

There are manual links at the top of the -page.