VW Bus EJ20T

[luisga018]

Hello,

I have a Westfalia 76 with a Subaru EJ20T engine. The engine runs as I installed a non turbo ecu and it starts and accelerates fine. However I can't get any RPM Crank signal in 32-2-2-2 or Subaru 6/7 crank settings. If I use EDIS setting I see RPM values but they are really high. At one point it started with these settings but it was stating 2k-3k rpm when it was idling. Not sure how to make the Microsquirt read the correct rpm.

Can anyone help?

Luis

[rickb794]

The Google says it should be a 36-2-2-2

[panel]

What crank trigger wheel do you have? I had to buy the 36-2-2-2. Mine came with that 6/7 style one and I read that there had been some problems with it. So I just bought the 36-2-2-2 one to avoid problems.

MSQ ?

[luisga018]

I believe it's a Subaru 6/7 since it's a 98 JDM engine (JDM 97-98 Subaru Forester SF5 EJ20G 2.0L Quad Cam Turbo Engine Impreza WRX EJ20). I need to verify correctly but in my case since it's a VW bus it's being blocked by the radiator and it's a pain to get out/in. I read about adding resistors to the line but not sure what to do.

[luisga018]

I will add the MSQ later as I am not home at the moment.

[panel]

Sounds like my motor 99-00 JDM EJ20 Turbo.....

It had this wheel (below) on it and then swapped it over.....

[luisga018]

Where did you buy that crank trigger? Can't seem to find it on ebay or online. Do you have a link?

[panel]

Did you confirm what crank trigger wheel you have right now ? I don't want ya buying something you already have.

[panel]

The 36-2-2-2 Subaru STI crank trigger wheel part # is 13021AA141. It can be got from eBay or Amazon.

[luisga018]

I installed the crank wheel and it is reading as expected. Problem I still have is the temperature sensor keeps reading 180F. I changed settings to Saab/Bosch and tried inverting the cables just to see but I can't get a reading.

[Matt Cramer]

Check to be sure the temperature sensor is grounded correctly.

[rickb794]

You can't ground or leave the CLT sensor line open, the software will default to 180°.

Connect an appropriate fixed resistor from the CLT lead to ground to test.

Check sensor with an Ohm meter?

[luisga018]

Ok so, everything was working fine. I took a break since Hurricane Maria hit Puerto Rico. Now when I come back to bus the crank sensor reads 0 rpm. I took the sensor out and checked cable and it works if I touch the sensor to crank wheel but not if I spin it around. Not sure if I changed some sensitivity settings or how can I test to fix this.

[panel]

Can you post an MSQ.......I'll check to see if it's different than mine.......seeing as though we're running similar set ups.

Also......what kinda coil(s) are you running ?

[luisga018]

Attached my msq! I'm a noob at this so feel free to make corrections.

[luisga018]

I can now see crank pulses... not sure what my settings need to be for it to start properly. Mind sharing ur msq so I can analyze.

[panel]

PM sent with my email. I'll attach my MSQ later when I'm home. And if you're running a MAF I'm no help to you sorry

Questions for you below:

1) What kinda coil/coilpack(s) are you running in wasted spark?

2) What wiring diagram have you been using ?

3) Have you used the 'output test mode' for either the spark or the injectors?

[panel]

Some of the differences I see are:

Mine: even fire , wideband , has KPA above 100 meaning it's a turbo ( I thought yours was also) and I have 'odd fire first angle" not set. (not sure what it is?)

Yours: odd fire , you have a narrow band , KPA only up to 100 for your tables , and you have 90 for your " odd fire first angle".

I'm no pro like the rest of the team on here so don't go and change anything until you're confident. I have no road time on these settings/tune BUT my combo does start easy and rev nicely in the driveway. Just been busy with other things.

Hoping others can chime in they see some differences that I've missed. Also like many others have said here before.......don't load in someone else's tune and expect good results. To many variables.

[luisga018]

Hello Panel,
Thanks for posting your msq, will use it later when I get home. I have not moved my bus out of the garage. All those settings are pretty much incorrect. I am still in the process. I have a MAF sensor (still need to figure out how to calibrate it). ATM I am trying to get my narrowband o2 sensor to work it has 3 cables but I am unsure how to plug it. Tried playing around with one to sensor ground cable, one to 10amp current and one to the o2 cable but still get no reading. I am by no means a pro in this but I am crazy enough to play around with it. Still no electricity power where I live (because of hurricane Maria) so I am way behind on this project because of this. I appreciate your help whenever I get stuck with something trivial. Currently I just need all sensors to work and give accurate readings so I can move to the next phase (tunning).

Any help on how to wire the o2 or why it's not working would be helpful.

[rickb794]

A wiring diagram from an EJ diagnosis manual will give you clues to the O2 wiring.
However you will not be able to tune with a narrowband O2 sensor, these are "high speed switching sensors".
They are designed to be used in an unbalanced system that constantly switches from rich to lean to maintain an "average" AFR.
These sensors do not deliver a linear output for O2 content, so the output from these sensors cannot be converted to AFR.
(If they could no one would use a wideband to tune...)

I can find no data that the EJ20 (there is no T model) is an odd fire motor, they sound funny because of the exhaust layout.
Given this you should not be using any of the odd fire settings.
The firmware I have open does not allow any odd fire settings in 36-2-2-2 mode (they are greyed out). Which firmware are you using?
A picture or link to the Crank wheel you are using might provide clues.

Since you are new to the game I would not try to use the MAF in the first go around.
I would tune it using Speed Density until your tuning confidence reaches a higher level.