MS2 V3.0 Datsun Spark Issue

[jhill280z]

]Hello all,
I am new to the MSEXTRA forum, and new to megasquirt in general...so please take it easy on me, I am going to do my best to provide all the info I can to you, and hope we can solve my issue!

I have an MS2 v3.0 that is not getting spark. Its in a Datsun 280z and I am using the DIYautotune custom trigger wheel specific to Nissan L28/VG, etc motors. It is a single coil setup. I had a harness made for me that is very quality and made installation very easy...but...I am getting no spark. In the tuner studio I am getting a reading from all sensors, and a nice steady ~195 rpm reading. I am also getting a pulse width reading, and my plugs are getting wet with fuel. I made a tooth log and sent it to the person who made my harness, who looked at it and said everything looked good, he also sent it to Matt Cramer of DIYautotune and he agreed everything looked good. I have ohm'd two separate know good coil's and bought a new coil, to no avail.

Here is a video of the tuner studio when attempting to start the car https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rl35XOu6gE411
Any test, idea, info, etc is greatly appreciated!! And I'm sure I left some key info out, just let me know and I can provide whatever information you need to assist me

Thank you!!!!

[rickb794]

What ignition output method are you using?

Can you test it? Using the output testing mode in tuner studio?

[jhill280z]

I tried using the output test mode, still no spark. I'm not sure exactly what you mean by ignition output method, but I have sent this link to the person who set the harness and board up for me to better answer any technical questions.

[softopz]

Hello I build the board and harness for Joshua we could use some help here cause im baffled as to why we have RPM signal, wet injectors and no spark.
The board is built HALL Optical , using the Bosch high current driver (single coil) and Its also been jumpered with mods needed for the DIYautotune trigger wheel. I followed the instructions per writeup for the DIYWHEEL . I was also unsure because the instructions were very vague to me so I even contacted Matt Cramer to clear up any confusion.
attached is a tooth log, the msq and the data log from attempted start.

spark output is going high in ignition settings which is funny you ask that cause the DIY writeup give you the option sorta for both,

Using the MS-II V3.0 or V3.57 ECU with MS2/Extra

Make sure it is set for Hall / optical input (TachSelect to OptoIn, TSEL to OptoOut).
Cut out C12 and C30. (Only needed when triggering from the – terminal of the coil, which you are not)
Remove D1 and jumper it, or just install a jumper wire across it’s leads. (Only needed when triggering from the – terminal of the coil, which you are not)
Cut out R57 if fitted (this won’t be there on my units though).
Connect S12 to TachSelect using a 1K resistor. (Or you can use a 1K pull up in the wiring, between pin 24 and a 12V source.)
If you want sequential coil on plug (or sequential injection with the 3.2.1 code), you’ll also need a second trigger input. Solder a 1K resistor onto a length of wire, and cover the resistor with heat shrink tubing. Connect this resistor-on-a-wire combination from JS10 to SPR1.
Solder a 470 ohm resistor onto a length of wire and cover with heat shrink tubing. Run this resistor-on-a-wire from the 5 volt terminal in the proto area to SPR1.
Connect a 0.1 uF capacitor from JS10 to SG or the proto area ground.
Install the spark output of your choice. BIP373 or QuadSpark output mods are two possible choices. OEM Nissan SR20DET ignition modules require 5 volt logic level ignition outputs.

green I did do, red I didnt cause its single coil.

TunerStudio settings (Batch fire / wated spark or single coil)

Settings under Basic Setup -> Tach Input / Ignition Settings:
Spark mode: Toothed Wheel
Ignition input capture: Falling Edge
Spark output will depend on what output setup you’re using. BIP373s and QuadSparks both use Going High / Inverted.Getting this setting wrong can damage the ignition module and/or coils. If the ignition module or coils get hot with the key on and the engine off, turn the key off immediately and select the opposite output setting.
Settings under Basic Setup -> Trigger Wheel Settings:
Trigger wheel arrangement: Single wheel with missing tooth
Trigger wheel teeth: 12
Missing Teeth: 1
Tooth #1 angle: 345 (This varies slightly between individual engines. Check with a timing light and adjust as needed.)
Wheel speed: Crank wheel

I always go high on my single coil using high current driver I found it strange that it says select opposite if it gets hot.

edit using pin 36 on negative side of coil. TS settings coming out of JS10 we have also confirmed there is 12 v on coil.

What cause not getting a spark output but we have a tach signal> I would like to help Joshua test his ignition driver output and for him to take pics of the jumpers I did to see if its correct just be sure.

[rickb794]

Does a grounded test light on the coil negative flash when you crank it?

Does it stay steady on or off?

Does it light at the coil positive?

[jhill280z]

I get 12v at the coil when the key is turned on for about 2 seconds because it's on the fuel pump relay circuit. When cranking, I get 12v if I ground at the head...if I try and ground at the negative terminal I get nothing.

[rickb794]

If you get a light on the positive side of the coil and none on the negative side, either the coil is open or the negative side is grounded (by the MS or somewhere between)

The tab of Q16 your BIP373 ignition driver must be insulated from the heat sink with a mica sheet .

[turbo conversion]

I get 12v at the coil when the key is turned on for about 2 seconds because it's on the fuel pump relay circuit. When cranking, I get 12v if I ground at the head...if I try and ground at the negative terminal I get nothing.

The test light should be grounded at the head to test both sides of the coil.

The + side of the coil should light the test light with key on engine off.

The - side of the coil should blink on and off when cranking the engine.

David

[softopz]

I did use the mica for the q16 high driver

[jhill280z]

I attached photos of the jumper mods done to the board. Still no spark, I'm so disappointed and stuck. I have no idea where to go from here.

[BlackBird_SR71]

Have you tried changing Spark A Output to " D14 " in Tuner Studio ?

[hybrid]

I would forget about all the tach input side of things.
You're getting RPM in TS, so the issue is with the output.

I'm with blackbird here - try switching ignition output to D14.
Your MSQ is set to JS10 for your ignition output, but the mods to the board looks like you're taking it from a diode?

[rickb794]

Looking at the picture it looks like JS10 is wired to IGTB out? wtf?

[hybrid]

Actually without seeing what exactly is in the proto area, by the look of the pics, it could be wired like this:

D14 -> (possibly resistor in proto area) -> JS10 -> IGTBOUT

Definitely need to double check those board mods.

[jhill280z]

I tried to change the output to D14 and still had no spark. Also JS10 is attached to IGTB OUT. I tried to attach photos of the proto area but it keeps saying the file is too big for some reason. I will try again later on my laptop. I also brought the board to a known megasquirt guru in my area and he immediately caught the IGTB OUT as incorrect.

[BlackBird_SR71]

I tried to change the output to D14 and still had no spark. Also JS10 is attached to IGTB OUT. I tried to attach photos of the proto area but it keeps saying the file is too big for some reason. I will try again later on my laptop. I also brought the board to a known megasquirt guru in my area and he immediately caught the IGTB OUT as incorrect.

Use MS Paint ( Or Photo Shop etc ) to open and save the Photo. It will compress the photo ( Use .jpg format) to a much smaller size that you can then post.

[hybrid]

This is a simple tool also.
Lets you right click and resize in windows.
http://www.bricelam.net/ImageResizer/

[softopz]

Ok from talking to Jhill we are now only getting spark in 3,4 which are usually paired ignition in wasted or cop setups. I am starting to believe its still setup for wasted spark.
Here are the pics below the post


To recap we are running single coil with the high current driver and the DIYautotune wheel. I usually setup IGBTIN to js10 and yes I did the mistake of IGBTOUT previously it must of been a late night. But now shouldnt IGBTIN go to js10 or top of r26 then choose inside tuner studio which spark out?



Secondly the instructions at DIYautotune are very mixed up when it comes to the hardware portion of board jumpers! I even clarified with Matt Cramer on the wording if you visit the site https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tec ... gger-disc/ I find the instructions clustered

Using the MS-II V3.0 or V3.57 ECU with MS2/Extra

Make sure it is set for Hall / optical input (TachSelect to OptoIn, TSEL to OptoOut).
Cut out C12 and C30. (Only needed when triggering from the – terminal of the coil, which you are not)
Remove D1 and jumper it, or just install a jumper wire across it’s leads. (Only needed when triggering from the – terminal of the coil, which you are not)
Cut out R57 if fitted (this won’t be there on my units though).
Connect S12 to TachSelect using a 1K resistor. (Or you can use a 1K pull up in the wiring, between pin 24 and a 12V source.)
If you want sequential coil on plug (or sequential injection with the 3.2.1 code), you’ll also need a second trigger input. Solder a 1K resistor onto a length of wire, and cover the resistor with heat shrink tubing. Connect this resistor-on-a-wire combination from JS10 to SPR1.
Solder a 470 ohm resistor onto a length of wire and cover with heat shrink tubing. Run this resistor-on-a-wire from the 5 volt terminal in the proto area to SPR1.
Connect a 0.1 uF capacitor from JS10 to SG or the proto area ground.
Install the spark output of your choice. BIP373 or QuadSpark output mods are two possible choices. OEM Nissan SR20DET ignition modules require 5 volt logic level ignition outputs.