Going from HEI to DIS no start(SOLVED)TUNE AND LOG INCLUDED

[Six_Shooter]

Literally the only think you need to change from HEI to (60 degree V6) DIS is the trigger angle. You need it to be greater than 50 degrees to use same cylinder timing and also set up the right set of 3 teeth that the ICM looks at AFTER starting. Typical GM 60 degree V6 BINs have this set to 60*. The engine should still start and run using trigger angles less than 15 degrees, but sill typically back fire and not be happy.

The wiring matches exactly the same (colour for colour) between HEI dizzy and DIS ICMs and in my experience if the pot settings worked on HEI, they will work on DIS with no adjustment.

[WillExoIX]

Literally the only think you need to change from HEI to (60 degree V6) DIS is the trigger angle. You need it to be greater than 50 degrees to use same cylinder timing and also set up the right set of 3 teeth that the ICM looks at AFTER starting. Typical GM 60 degree V6 BINs have this set to 60*. The engine should still start and run using trigger angles less than 15 degrees, but sill typically back fire and not be happy.

The wiring matches exactly the same (colour for colour) between HEI dizzy and DIS ICMs and in my experience if the pot settings worked on HEI, they will work on DIS with no adjustment.

I definitely get the kickback and backfires. And thats all in line with what I have come across in the research. Any insight on the irregular RPM syncing?

[ChevelleFan]

I had gotten some DIS config info from a guy with a Saturn using DIS. (an 11-second turbo Saturn using stock DIS) It was set to Falling Edge / Going Low, with a trigger angle of 70*. YMMV.

However, these are OBD-1 DIS units, and your '96 Buick DIS is likely OBD-2, not sure how much difference that makes.

Also, just a suggestion, but get rid of the animated GIF in your sig. It's annoying as hell when there's 3 of them on the screen at once. Funny GIF, I like it, but really distracting.

-Dave

[WillExoIX]

I had gotten some DIS config info from a guy with a Saturn using DIS. (an 11-second turbo Saturn using stock DIS) It was set to Falling Edge / Going Low, with a trigger angle of 70*. YMMV.

However, these are OBD-1 DIS units, and your '96 Buick DIS is likely OBD-2, not sure how much difference that makes.

Also, just a suggestion, but get rid of the animated GIF in your sig. It's annoying as hell when there's 3 of them on the screen at once. Funny GIF, I like it, but really distracting.

-Dave

Seems in line with the 60* trigger angle I've seen just about everywhere in the research and Six's recommendation.
Yea I keep forgetting to uncheck the sig box. I've edited them out of all the posts but the first one. It's to funny to get rid of LOL

[WillExoIX]

It runs. Turns out contrary to the Internet pinouts, pin A is purple and pin B is yellow. The opposite of how all the pinouts are listed at the ICM connector for the CPS.

I swapped the two and it started immediately. I copy pasted the settings from another thread to my desktop and will post those momentarily.

Going to dial in the trigger angle and see what I can get accomplished. Timing is going back and forth on the balancer about 5° or so while running.

BUT IT RUNS.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[WillExoIX]

Tune and log included. Turns out the pinout on the CPS plug for the ICM is wrong. Its purple on pin A and yellow on pin B.
Also noticed I've lost the bypass on D16, the LED is no longer lit.

These are the copy pasted settings I used from another thread.
Spark Mode= Basic Trigger
Trigger Angle/Offset=62.00)*************************************NOTE: 65.00 nets me exactly 10* on the balancer
GM HEI/DIS options =GM Bypass on D16
Skip Pulses= 1
Ignition Input Capture= Falling Edge
Spark Output= Going Low (Normal)
Number of Coils= Wasted Spark
Spark A output pin= JS10
Fixed Advance= Use Table
Use Prediction= 1st Deriv Prediction****************************NOTE: I turned this off.
Cranking Dwell= 6.0
Cranking Advance= 3.0
Dwell type= Fixed Duty
Dwell duty= 50

It Idles beautifully like it did before. Confirmed with a dumb timing light at the balancer. Timing jumped about 5-10* either way until I set the trigger angle to 65*.

Now need to chase down the lack of bypass on D16 so we can get the MS controlling timing again. Open to ideas; again I will be researching while waiting for tips, tests, or otherwise.

Log is too big :/
Ill get another smaller one in a bit

[WillExoIX]

Now I do remember awhile back (years ago) when I was just getting started with the MS, I did have issues with the Bypass not working/not working properly. I wonder if it will be the same but I don't remember what was done to get it working.Ill have to look back through my old threads here and see whats up.

[ChevelleFan]

You could try just tapping into TPS VREF for the Bypass. I do that on my HEI8 setup.

-Dave

[WillExoIX]

You could try just tapping into TPS VREF for the Bypass. I do that on my HEI8 setup.

-Dave

Not a bad idea. Though first Im going to probe the bypass wire for 5v, as it seems to be working in some respect or adjusting the trigger angle would have zero effect no?

Continuing this next issue here
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic ... 01&t=67045
As I'd like to keep the issues separated.

Please reply to that link from here forth,
Thanks

[Six_Shooter]

Sounds correct on the bypass. The 5V is provided when that circuit is OFF. The 5V comes from the pull up resistor (that is also the current limiting resistor for the LED). In normal MS speak, the circuit being on, will have the LED on, which is actually pulling the trigger for the LED to ground. When the circuit is "OFF", there will be 5V present on the output due to the pull up nature of R28.

In my installs I remove the LED, because it's not needed and could be a source of issues in some cases, especially depending on which side of the LED you tapped into for the bypass output.

To be sure, probe the bypass wire with a DMM, you should see 0V at key on, and then 5V (or close to) once the engine surpasses your "start RPM" setting.

[WillExoIX]

Sounds correct on the bypass. The 5V is provided when that circuit is OFF. The 5V comes from the pull up resistor (that is also the current limiting resistor for the LED). In normal MS speak, the circuit being on, will have the LED on, which is actually pulling the trigger for the LED to ground. When the circuit is "OFF", there will be 5V present on the output due to the pull up nature of R28.

In my installs I remove the LED, because it's not needed and could be a source of issues in some cases, especially depending on which side of the LED you tapped into for the bypass output.

To be sure, probe the bypass wire with a DMM, you should see 0V at key on, and then 5V (or close to) once the engine surpasses your "start RPM" setting.

Pretty much. I've since moved the new issue to a new thread as to not confuse someone looking for info via the search function. And the bypass acts like it should.

[Garagelessonyouytube]

Do you have shunt resistor? Start with 1k ohm shunt resistor