boot loader capacitor

[Boostedbrick]

i cant seem to find the answer, im having small voltage spike issues and heard about this helping greatly, but i cant figure out where exactly to solder the capacitor on to. i tried directly on the boot jumper pins and the ms acted like it was in boot loader mode, what am i doing wrong?

[jsmcortina]

Soldering it wrong perhaps?
Please upload a photo.

James

[Boostedbrick]

Do i use these holes, or on the pins on the daughter board?

[racingmini_mtl]

The ones in your picture.

Jean

[Boostedbrick]

ok thank you, i was trying the pins on the daughter board.

[rickb794]

Have you honored the grounding in 3.2 of the manual?
Does your power distribution wiring diagram look like the diagram in 3.3?
Power for pin 28 of the DB37 must come from the battery not the car harness.
O2 sensor controller power should be paired with the fuel pump.
Have you checked (measured) Injector impedance?
Have you read and followed all the items in the DO's and DON'T's sticky post?

[Boostedbrick]

Have you honored the grounding in 3.2 of the manual?
yes
Does your power distribution wiring diagram look like the diagram in 3.3?
yes
Power for pin 28 of the DB37 must come from the battery not the car harness.
its coming from my fuse block that goes thru the main relay then to my battery, but the main relay is switched using my car harness.
O2 sensor controller power should be paired with the fuel pump.
havent done this yet.
Have you checked (measured) Injector impedance?
no, but there high z, why would that matter?
Have you read and followed all the items in the DO's and DON'T's sticky post?
No not yet

[Boostedbrick]

Now that i think about it, my injectors are all sharing the same power, as in i have 1 wire running all 8 and splitting in two but dont see that being an issue?

[Boostedbrick]

Have you honored the grounding in 3.2 of the manual?
Does your power distribution wiring diagram look like the diagram in 3.3?
Power for pin 28 of the DB37 must come from the battery not the car harness.
O2 sensor controller power should be paired with the fuel pump.
Have you checked (measured) Injector impedance?
Have you read and followed all the items in the DO's and DON'T's sticky post?

Hi Rick, i read the "Do's and Dont's sticky" and thus caught my attention "
"and triggering power for the injectors and coil(s) off the fuel pump relay"

my MS is being powered off the same fuse panel as my coils,injectors, and relay switches, as well as my crank 12v.

does this sound like the culprit?
should i just run MS straight to battery post using a switch?

[rickb794]

Using any of the factory power distribution wiring can be problematic, noise, voltage drops, etc.

Wire the power just like the diagram in 3.3 of the manual.

Straight off the battery for the main relay and supply for the injectors and fuel pump.

The pink wire in the digram that powers the two relays can come from the car harness.

Use a relay rated at 40A for the fuel pump and large enough (12ga) wire to feed it (pin 30) so there is no voltage drop.

[Boostedbrick]

ok i will do this, thank you sir, i will report back.

[rickb794]

I'm not saying that will fix it. Those are just potential sources.

What have you done to try and isolate the cause?

Where are you seeing the noise?

[Boostedbrick]

I'm not saying that will fix it. Those are just potential sources.

What have you done to try and isolate the cause?

Where are you seeing the noise?

im getting small voltage spikes and some dips, and random misfires, sometimes random sync loss, my afr are inconsistant on the highway but that could be somewhat in the tune but i believe it has to do with this fluctuation in voltage, also my coolant temp sensor still will not funcion, ive check and tried everything with the cts...

im running a turbo ls, d585 coils using logic level resistor method.

i have the ms triggering the FP relay and coil relay with the same ground trigger because of that sporatic spark when ms is switched on. i have all my grounds going to the back of the ps head, and then my large engine ground from the front of that head straight to battery a ft. away.

car does well WOT and did well at track minus a few sync losses on a few passes... i was going to adjust the r56 pot a small amount and see if that is whats causing this random misfire/sync loss...

and was going to put a capacitor on the bootloader pins to see if it would help this vomtage fluctuation...

here is a msq on the highway.

[rickb794]

I'd work on the Coolant temp sensor issue and the sync loss first.

You can't run the motor effectively without a working coolant temp sensor.

No amount of sync loss is tolerable.

[Boostedbrick]

yes your right, will do. ill report back! thanks so far guys!

[Boostedbrick]

***update, problem solved.

Running the ms power wire and crank sensor power straight to the battery on a switch and lowering some of my lag values got rid of all of my problems completely... No more small random misfires or voltage spikes, and my afrs are rock solid, car feels awesome and just hit my best time so far at the track. Thanks for all the input guy's.
Now onto that non-working coolant temp sensor lol...only issue left!