Drew442 wrote:1998-2002 Ford Falcon from Australia has the VR mounted to the timing cover, 36-1 wheel on the balancer, two 4 post coil packs and cam angle sensor with oil pump drive.
Everything you you need for sequential injection and wasted spark and all with factory parts.
Drew442 wrote:1998-2002 Ford Falcon from Australia has the VR mounted to the timing cover, 36-1 wheel on the balancer, two 4 post coil packs and cam angle sensor with oil pump drive.
Everything you you need for sequential injection and wasted spark and all with factory parts.
In case you missed my post, it's literally the exact same setup as the 5.0 Explorer: 2x 4 post EDIS coils, a cam sensor/oil pump drive in place of the distributor, and a 36-1 toothed wheel with a VR cam sensor.
Notice the square part on the left. The sensor fits in there.
FIY That cover is for clockwise rotating W/P
Correctly identify your MS ecu here
Read the Do's and Don'ts to avoid the common pitfalls before starting your install or asking for help
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I would do some investigation on that cover before buying.
Description states reverse cooling not reverse rotation and pump mount appears unique.
Correctly identify your MS ecu here
Read the Do's and Don'ts to avoid the common pitfalls before starting your install or asking for help
Use only these manuals other manuals may cause brain damage or worse.
all of this stuff still changes pulley spacing for a mustang 5.0 though, which affects my junk. Trying to get some buddies with a mill to come up with a sandwiched trigger wheel for us on the cheap.
Or include a pulley to replace the OEM pulley with the spacing reduced by the thickness of the trigger wheel.
Or making a larger diameter wheel that attaches to the back of the OEM pulley in a way that does not affect belt spacing.
Altering the spacing on all the accy's may be a lot more work than just altering the one on the crank.
In my eyes it is best to have the trigger wheel behind the balancer so it can't get caught up in any belt related carnage.
Maybe this is not a real issue to be concerned about especially if one wants compatibility with an aftermarket balancer (Fluidampr, etc).
With the wheel farther from the front of the motor a more rigid (triangulated) sensor mount will be needed as well.
Correctly identify your MS ecu here
Read the Do's and Don'ts to avoid the common pitfalls before starting your install or asking for help
Use only these manuals other manuals may cause brain damage or worse.
Blown88GT wrote:5.0Thunder:
We have strayed off topic.
So, what's going on with the misfire? Figure it out before moving on to something else, which may not cure it.
Good call. started with a cold compression test (at 85deg ambient). 150-150-148-150-150-148-150-150. Pretty happy with these results. Since I run e85, almost all my plugs looked brand new, with the exception of #4 which appeared to be burning oil. The piston looked "wetter" than the rest using my bore camera too. the turbine housing also has oil on the outlet so although I have a few more checks to make, I'm leaning toward 2 possible causes.
1) Turbocharger seals leaking oil into the hot side runners down into the cylinder through the exhaust valve. I feel like this is less likely but possible if the oil is pressurized at 50+psi and flowing enough.
2) intake manifold gasket leaking oil into the runner. Seems more likely to cause a misfire and not entirely uncommon for a SBF. I'm going to use my bore-camera to check out the gaskets from the runner side and valley side, then try to pressurize that runner with the intake valve closed to see if it leaks pressure. Should definitely determine if it's leaking or not.
The car sat for a short while, fired up, then drove great, without misfire. Being that the compression is great and misfire intermittent, I think this is still ignition related.
I may try the TFI bypass deal shown by Twisted Metal in this thread (his last post)
I really wanted to solve the current problem before throwing money and parts at it so this is the reason for the Twisted Metal's TFI bypass. It may not be a TFI module issue at all. It may lie in the hall sensor within the dizzy or maybe even the wiring. if the issue pops back up with this mod, I can at least rule the TFI out, as far as I know.
Is this correct logic, based on your knowledge of the TFI system?
Modifying the TFI circuit is problematical, at best. It boils down to 2 choices.
Use the distributor as Ford supplied it.
OR
Get rid of it completely & go to a toothed wheel.
If you go with the former, you can use a CD ignition box if you connect it as if there was no Megasquirt. There are other ways to connect it, but successes don't seem to outweigh the failures.
Since I no room at all for a toothed wheel, I will always use a distributor/TFI. I have no problems with it, works fine for me as does the Crane HI-6 box & Crane coil.
My current tune is better than ever, starts & fires just like it did the day I bought the car new. Little tweaks in the tune can make a huge difference.