Jimstim 1.3 question

[neonturbo]

If I turn on Neon code in software and make the appropriate changes in outputs I can get a perfect RPM reading using my Jimstim ver 1.3.

Using NGC, generic wheel, all different trigger settings, believe me I tried them all, and either 4 or 6 cyl setting in software and what I believe to be the correct setting on the stim. I only get erratic or completely unbelievable rpm readings.

This is on MS1 HR11d

Trying to use DIS with 3 spark outputs.This was setup for Neon with 2 spark outputs and ran terrific previously. I soldered in a third spark output and turned it on in software. I cannot get a believable or smooth RPM on either the car or stim with NGC.

I assume that using dip switches 3+5 on the Jimstim are supposed to be NGC wheel. If this is not the case what is this setting for?

[racingmini_mtl]

Unless you've changed your JimStim CPU for one with the v2.0.3 code, you won't have the NGC wheel mode. If you set the DIP switches according to the web page for the V2.0 firmware, all you'll get is something else or nothing.

Jean

[neonturbo]

No, not using 2.03 using 1.3 chart from http://jbperf.com/JimStim/JimStim_v1_3_ ... Setup.html. It shows 6th down on the chart 36+1-1 which people mistakenly called the NGC wheel way back in many of the development threads. That is what I was going by.

If numbers 3+5 ON is not the NGC stetting what is it used for?

[racingmini_mtl]

I'm sorry that's my mistake, I was thinking of something else. That setting is for the NGC for the 4 cylinder engines. And it's the same pattern as for the latest firmware except that in the initial firmware version, the cam signal was not there. Starting with the second release (one paint dot on the CPU), the cam signal was there. If your CPU has no markings on it it's the first version.

And I don't know much about the MS1 code but James has used the JimStim to test the wheel modes when he implemented them in MS1/Extra. So either there's a configuration issue or the HR code has had changes made to this mode.

So I think this is more related to the MS firmware than to the JimStim and it might be better placed in the MS1 section.

Jean

[neonturbo]

It is hard to describe without screen shots, but I am NOT getting the patterns I think I am supposed to have: This is with a very basic scope. I am also having trouble getting the pattern I think I should in TunerStudio logger. Cannot get consistent good RPM in any stim mode except in Neon mode, when Neon decoder turned on in software.

Mode...........Switches......Results......ASCII representation
Dist/EDIS- All switched off- 3 short pulse, gap|.|.|...|.|.|...
******36-1- #3 on- 50% duty |.|.|.|.|.
******60-2- #4 on- 20 pulse 2 missing, 20 pulse|||||||||||||||||||..||||||||||||||||||||..
***36-1+1- #3+5 on- 2 pulse, missing pulse, 1 pulse, missing 3 pulse, 2 pulse||.|...||.|...
*******6-1- #3+4+5 on- pulse pulse, gap, pulse, gap, pulse, gap, pulse pulse||..|..|..||..|..|..||.

Again, board marked Jimstim v1.3 (c) 2007
Purchased per-assembled about 12-18 months ago, used once at that time in Neon mode (#6 on), seemed to work OK then. Has been stored in box ever since.
No paint dots or markings on the processor chip.
All testing done without MS board hooked up
All testing done with 12v pullup on primary trigger (did not read/give good results with 5v)
No signals inverted with switches 7+8 (both off)
Primary tach jumpered
No jumpers on serial/usb pins

[racingmini_mtl]

Your configuration seems ok but the results are definitely not what they should be. You don't seem to get the mode you want so there may be a problem with the switches for selecting the mode.

You'll need to check if there is a DIP switch stuck in some position. Remove the CPU and check pin 5 to 12 for continuance with the ground. The pins should be floating when the corresponding DIP switch is off and grounded when on (except for pin 11/switch #1 which is always floating). The schematic is available here to see which pin corresponds to which switch number (it's for the V1.4 but that part is the same as V1.3).

If there is any stuck switch, check if there is a cold solder. If not, there may be oxidation in the switch and you may be able to correct it by simply moving the switch on and off a few times.

Jean