When the wheel pattern of 12/1 is chosen, does that mean 12 tooth crank sensor with 1 tooth missing or does that mean 12 tooth crank and 1 tooth cam sensor. The reason I ask is the tooth pattern on my EG33 is 12 tooth crank with none missing and 1 tooth cam. Is 12/1 the right pattern to chose?
Thanks
MIke
Wheel patterns
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racingmini_mtl
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Re: Wheel patterns
The 12/1 pattern is 12 teeth on the primary tach signal and 1 tooth on the secondary tach signal. This could be both on the crank or both on the cam. If you want 12 teeth on the crank and 1 tooth on the cam, that would be a 24/1 which doesn't exist in the standard set of wheel patterns on the JimStim.
And a missing tooth pattern is indicated with a '-' such as 12-1.
Jean
And a missing tooth pattern is indicated with a '-' such as 12-1.
Jean
Re: Wheel patterns
Jean,
Thanks for your reply all be it disappointing. As you can tell, this is my first experience with MS or any standalone. I now understand the difference between "-" and "/".
When I ordered the package from Matt last fall, I told him the engine and trigger pattern I was using. Why would he recommend buying the Jimstim if it does not handle the pattern of my engine? Also, is the V.2.0.3 version the latest or is V.2 the latest?
What would be your recommedation as to how to proceed. With my limited tech ability, I am reluctant to tackle reprograming this Jimstim to handle the pattern of my engine.
Mike
Thanks for your reply all be it disappointing. As you can tell, this is my first experience with MS or any standalone. I now understand the difference between "-" and "/".
When I ordered the package from Matt last fall, I told him the engine and trigger pattern I was using. Why would he recommend buying the Jimstim if it does not handle the pattern of my engine? Also, is the V.2.0.3 version the latest or is V.2 the latest?
What would be your recommedation as to how to proceed. With my limited tech ability, I am reluctant to tackle reprograming this Jimstim to handle the pattern of my engine.
Mike
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Matt Cramer
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Re: Wheel patterns
You can put the ECU in a wheel mode other than the one on your engine for testing. The regular Stim isn't very good for testing any sort of wheel decoding or distributorless ignition.
Matt Cramer -1966 Dodge Dart slant six running on MS3X
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racingmini_mtl
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Re: Wheel patterns
As Matt says, you can use a different mode when bench testing such as the 12/1 mode. This will allow you to test everything you could do with the real 24/1. Once you move the ECU to the car, just change the 12 for 24 in TunerStudio and you'll be ready to go.
The regular stim would not allow you to use 2 tach inputs or another wheel pattern other than a distributor (or EDIS) mode.
Jean
The regular stim would not allow you to use 2 tach inputs or another wheel pattern other than a distributor (or EDIS) mode.
Jean
Re: Wheel patterns
Jean,
Ok, I have chosen a 10/1 pattern in TS and Jimstim. With power on, the MAT,CLT,TPS and O2 pots all work with the gauges but no RPM. Power and FP leds are on. The cam signal is turned on but frankly I did not understand the jumper wire setup for the 2nd trigger. I changed the jumper on the primary to simulate VR input. Have turned the R11 and R32 pots clockwise a couple of turns but no Rpm. What am I missing?
Under your "Remote Configuration" instructions, where do I find the Basic Parameters window within TS. I looked but could not find it.
When I install the MS3 to the engine, do I enter the tooth number as 12 or 24? Again my crank trigger is 12 evenly spaced teeth(none missing) and single cam tooth.
Appreciate your help
Mike
Ok, I have chosen a 10/1 pattern in TS and Jimstim. With power on, the MAT,CLT,TPS and O2 pots all work with the gauges but no RPM. Power and FP leds are on. The cam signal is turned on but frankly I did not understand the jumper wire setup for the 2nd trigger. I changed the jumper on the primary to simulate VR input. Have turned the R11 and R32 pots clockwise a couple of turns but no Rpm. What am I missing?
Under your "Remote Configuration" instructions, where do I find the Basic Parameters window within TS. I looked but could not find it.
When I install the MS3 to the engine, do I enter the tooth number as 12 or 24? Again my crank trigger is 12 evenly spaced teeth(none missing) and single cam tooth.
Appreciate your help
Mike
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racingmini_mtl
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Re: Wheel patterns
First, don't use the 10/1 mode for a 6-cylinder engine; that's not a compatible mode. Use the 12/1 mode. I'm surprised you did not get an error message. And you have to power cycle your MS after changing the wheel mode or the number of teeth.
For the remote configuration, you need to have the USB/TTL cable or board. Without this you won't be able to communicate with the JimStim. However, this is not necessary since you can simply use the DIP switches and the RPM pots.
And you can either enter 12 or 24 depending on whether you specify that the number of teeth is from the crank or the cam. Since yours is on the crank simply enter what you have: 12 teeth at crank speed.
Jean
For the remote configuration, you need to have the USB/TTL cable or board. Without this you won't be able to communicate with the JimStim. However, this is not necessary since you can simply use the DIP switches and the RPM pots.
And you can either enter 12 or 24 depending on whether you specify that the number of teeth is from the crank or the cam. Since yours is on the crank simply enter what you have: 12 teeth at crank speed.
Jean
Re: Wheel patterns
Jean,
Thanks for your reply but I don't see a 12/1 pattern listed under wheel patterns. I do see a 12-1 but my crank wheel does not have any teeth missing. I'm feeling dumber by the minute on this stuff.
Mike
Thanks for your reply but I don't see a 12/1 pattern listed under wheel patterns. I do see a 12-1 but my crank wheel does not have any teeth missing. I'm feeling dumber by the minute on this stuff.
Mike
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racingmini_mtl
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Re: Wheel patterns
Sorry, the 24/2 is the same as 12/1. So you can use that one.
Jean
Jean
Re: Wheel patterns
Jean,
I am still working on getting an rpm signal so if you could answer a couple more questions, that would be appreciated. I have performed the rpm and led tests and everything seems to be fine.
First: The instructions for the 2nd signal are "If a secondary tach signal is needed, it has to be connected with a jumper wire from the 2nd trigger header pin to the appropriate pin on the header in the middle of the board (depends on how the 2nd trigger has been wired on the MS board). " I understand the 2nd header pin but I am confused by "the appropriate pin on the header in the middle of the board". I see the 5v 3pin header, the 10pin header and the 19 pin header in the middle of the board. Could you give me some guidance here? My MS is a 3.57.
Second: I have the primary and 2nd tach signal set up on 12v pullup. Should this be a 5v pullup instead?
Thanks for your patience.
Mike
I am still working on getting an rpm signal so if you could answer a couple more questions, that would be appreciated. I have performed the rpm and led tests and everything seems to be fine.
First: The instructions for the 2nd signal are "If a secondary tach signal is needed, it has to be connected with a jumper wire from the 2nd trigger header pin to the appropriate pin on the header in the middle of the board (depends on how the 2nd trigger has been wired on the MS board). " I understand the 2nd header pin but I am confused by "the appropriate pin on the header in the middle of the board". I see the 5v 3pin header, the 10pin header and the 19 pin header in the middle of the board. Could you give me some guidance here? My MS is a 3.57.
Second: I have the primary and 2nd tach signal set up on 12v pullup. Should this be a 5v pullup instead?
Thanks for your patience.
Mike
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racingmini_mtl
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Re: Wheel patterns
Mike,
Those instructions are for an MS2 setup. For an MS3 setup (which is what you have I assume from your other posts), you need to connect the 2nd trigger to the 'CAM in' pin on the MS3X DB37 (pin 32) or the appropriate place on the JimStimX (if that's what you have).
And you can leave both tach pull up at 12V.
Jean
Those instructions are for an MS2 setup. For an MS3 setup (which is what you have I assume from your other posts), you need to connect the 2nd trigger to the 'CAM in' pin on the MS3X DB37 (pin 32) or the appropriate place on the JimStimX (if that's what you have).
And you can leave both tach pull up at 12V.
Jean
Re: Wheel patterns
Jean,
That did it!
Thanks again.
Mike
That did it!
Thanks again.
Mike
Re: Wheel patterns
Jean,
I'm back at getting everything to work on the Jimstim. What other connections need to be made between the MS3x board and the Jimstim board? Still not getting Ign, Inj or Iac led's to work.
Mike
I'm back at getting everything to work on the Jimstim. What other connections need to be made between the MS3x board and the Jimstim board? Still not getting Ign, Inj or Iac led's to work.
Mike
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racingmini_mtl
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Re: Wheel patterns
Have you had a look at the JimStimX (http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_article ... embly.html)? If you don't have one, every output on the MS3X needs to be connected to some LEDs on the JimStim.
As for the IAC, you need to have the jumpers on your MS board (http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/build_manual.html#v357) and the jumpers on the JimStim as described here: http://jbperf.com/JimStim/JimStim_v2_0_ ... .html#leds
Jean
As for the IAC, you need to have the jumpers on your MS board (http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/build_manual.html#v357) and the jumpers on the JimStim as described here: http://jbperf.com/JimStim/JimStim_v2_0_ ... .html#leds
Jean
Re: Wheel patterns
Jean,
Been away for a week but once again, thanks for your input.
With limited time to devote to this project, I bought all assembled units from DIY and therefore have not read any of the assembly instuctions. I will take your suggestion and read those parts.
With the 3 jumpers that DIY supplies, I have made a couple of the connections from the MS3x connector to the ign and inj pins on the JS and am getting more confident in playing with those.
Am experiencing sync loss at 3900 to 4100 rpm but will experiment with the trigger log and tooth log tools before I ask any more newbie questions.
Mike
Been away for a week but once again, thanks for your input.
With limited time to devote to this project, I bought all assembled units from DIY and therefore have not read any of the assembly instuctions. I will take your suggestion and read those parts.
With the 3 jumpers that DIY supplies, I have made a couple of the connections from the MS3x connector to the ign and inj pins on the JS and am getting more confident in playing with those.
Am experiencing sync loss at 3900 to 4100 rpm but will experiment with the trigger log and tooth log tools before I ask any more newbie questions.
Mike