Failed testing

Building and using the Stimulator to test your Megasquirt

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Failed testing

Postby sen2two » Sun May 24, 2015 2:20 pm

I connected the 3.3v pin header to the 3 pin header (directly across from the word tach on the 19 pin header). Using the 1st pin from the left.

I connected the 3 pin ground header at the very bottom left of the board to the first pin (closest to the injector LEDs) of the 10-pin LED header.

I then turned the switch to ON. Nothing happens in either direction. (I'm using a brand new 9v battery). The LED directly next to the switch does NOT light up.

When I move the jumper wire from the 1st pin on the 10 pin header to the 2nd pin just below it, the 2nd IGN LED lights up.

moving on down the line only moving the jumper wire down the 10 pin header.

The 3rd header pin does nothing.
The 4th pin does nothing.
The 5th pin lights up the IGN 5 LED.
The 6th pin lights up the IGN 6 LED.

leaving everything the same and moving the wire jumper that is connected to the ground to the 19 pin header starting at the top, closest to the INJ LEDs.

FP - Lights the FP LED
IGN - Nothing
INJ2 - Lights the IGN2 LED
INJ1 - Nothing
I2B - Nothing
FIDL - Lights the FIDL LED


Moving to the 7th pin header from the top, to test the IAC LEDs. I move the jumper wire from the 3.3v single header to the 3 pin header to the left of it (12v). Then keeping one end of the jumper wire on the grounded 3 pin header to the 8th pin from the top on the 10 pin header. IAC1 lights up. Moving the header on the 8th pin to the 9th and 10th does nothing.



So i'm lost. some work and some do not.... My solder joints look good. everything is in the right place on the board. What could be the problem?

I can post pics of exactly what I am doing if this would be less confusing.....?
sen2two
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Re: Failed testing

Postby sen2two » Sun May 24, 2015 2:28 pm

Following the Tach Signal instructions, While turning the RPM pots, both adjust the IAC2 light. So I am assuming this area has no problems.

Unless both or IAC LEDs are supposed to blink?
sen2two
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Re: Failed testing

Postby racingmini_mtl » Sun May 24, 2015 9:14 pm

For the IAC LED, you need to move not just the wire jumper on pin 8 but move both jumpers to pin 9 and 10. I'm not sure from you description that this is what you did.

From what you say, it looks like you may not have made sure you installed the LEDs in the right direction. Did you check to put the LEDs the correct way in when you soldered them? They only work in one direction (except for the IAC LEDs). If you did put them all in the correct direction, the other possibility is that you overheated them when soldering them. I've seen others do that but not for so many of them. But it is still a possibility; applying too much heat for too long will burn them.

And you should see both IAC LEDs blink.

Jean
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racingmini_mtl
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Re: Failed testing

Postby sen2two » Mon May 25, 2015 5:27 am

I just read over that portion again. Somehow I didn't notice that the LEDs were directional. :oops:

I will desolder all the ones that do not light up, reinstall them and see if it passes the test.
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Re: Failed testing

Postby sen2two » Mon May 25, 2015 9:43 am

Ok, trying to remove the LEDs is proving to be a pain in the ass...

Since I left my LED legs about .375 long. Could I just cut the legs about half way up, then rotate the LED 180 degrees and resolder them back to the legs.
sen2two
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Re: Failed testing

Postby racingmini_mtl » Mon May 25, 2015 9:54 am

It would be better to cut the legs as close to the board as possible and then remove the solder and leg fragments from the board (using a toothpick is one way to clear the hole in the board). Then re-install the LED the correct way in.

Soldering to the legs will be a pain and likely to either create intermittent connections or early failures or overheat the LEDs. But you also need to be careful not to overheat the board when removing the solder and leg fragments because you can lift and/or destroy the pad.

Jean
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