1985 Dodge Omni GLH Turbo Microsquirt

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1985 Dodge Omni GLH Turbo Microsquirt

Postby tryingbe » Wed Sep 20, 2017 11:02 am

I have a 1985 Dodge Omni GLH with lots and lots of modifications, staying 2.2L block and 8 valve cylinder head. It made 290WHP at 20psi on E85 couple years ago on a socketed 1987 Dodge logic module ECU that I programmed. I was experiencing electrical issue with my car and decided it isn't worth my time to troubleshoot the issue, since there is only two possibilities, computers or wiring, none is available new. Wanting to keep the car, aftermarket ECU is the only option and Megasquirt / Microsqurit sounded so good.

For simplicity sake I went with batch firing injectors and wasted spark ignition system, so the compact\slightly cheaper Microsquirt would work fine for me as I will only need one crank sensor and a 36-1 wheel welded to my crank. Factory Chrysler's 2.2/2.5 hall effect sensor/distributor setup is broken on MS.


My Microsquirt input/outputs are the following.

Inputs are:
crank/hall sensor, shielded from the shielding of a coax cable.(no need for cam sensor)
coolant temperature sensor (Chrysler sensor)
air temperature sensor (open element Chrysler sensor)
throttle position sensor (Stock Chrysler sensor)
ethanol sensor (GM sensor)
o2 sensor (AEM Uego with 5v output)
manifold absolute pressure sensor (GM 3 bar map)
knock sensor (knocksense controller http://www.viatrack.ca) edit: knocksense is no good for my needs as it can only display light and do digital on/off output, looking into lilknockmeter instead. lilknockmeter can display light, has headphone output, has on/off digital output, as well as analogue output... :yeah!: Dodge 2.2/2.5 are very noise engines. Stock ECU consider .8V is a knock at 2000rpm, while it consider 4V is a knock at 4000RPM. So I need something that can give me an analogue output.
A/C sense wire - as it turns out, I don't need it and can use it for something else instead.


Outputs are:
idle control (on/off solenoid, not the stock stepper motor) edit: MAC valve (same valve people used for boost solenoid) internal opening is too small, only raise idle by 500-100rpm, not enough for my a/c needs. Trying a different valve/solenoid
tachometer
two set of Ignition coil (goes to 420a coil)
two set of injectors (75lbs low impedance injectors with a Volvo injector resistor)
a/c cut off - works great
fan relay wire - works great
fuel pump

Boost control is handle by my HDi electronic boost controller, and I am very happy with that.
Added an external voltage regulator from a 80's dodge truck for the alterantor, super easy to do.
Changed all factory fusible links to PAL fuseblock, and added a blade fuseblock for Microsquirt with an relay for ignition switch on

I have almost $1500 into Microsquirt related parts

Microsquirt + 8 ft harness $369
36-1 wheel $32.00
Weld 36-1 wheel to crank $100 - Going to have the wheel fully welded and balanced, tips from a racer that did the same thing and broke his wheel off once due to spot weld and broke the crank the second time due to balancing.
crank sensor $43
QuadSpark $89.00
MAP sensor connector $8.50
MAT sensor connector $10.00
ECT sensor connector $10.00
TPS sensor connector $10.00
420A wires $20
420A coil $20
Wiring Connector packs $30
USB to serial $15
Misc wires $40
Uninsulated crimp $20
Crimp tool $13
Shrink Wrap $10
Misc bolts $15
Relay $15
Fusebox $25
Fuses $5
E85 sensor + connector $80
lilknockmeter $120
bosch knock sensor, connector, stud $40
Injector resister $30
wire loop $20
MAC valve for idle control $30
3m tape $6
Tuner Studio + MegaViewer $79.95
etc...

Separating engine harness with body harness.
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Welded the 36-1 wheel to my crank pulley
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Microsquirt and Quadspark at stock ECU location
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Some people have coil on plug, I have coil on distributor!
Mounted my 420a coil on my distributor, after taking all the moving parts out of the distributor.
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Welded some 1/4" thick metal for my crank sensor bracket.
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Injector resistor, on/off idle solenoid, and 3 bar map under the solenoid
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E85 sensor
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Boost control solenoid, hobbs pressure switch, (opens at 0psi to control the solenoid that allow blowby to from Valvecover to pre-turbo piping), PCV blowby solenoid
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Fuseblocks, PC680 battery, and Volvo radiator fan relay
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Wiring mostly cleaned up
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Last edited by tryingbe on Tue Oct 10, 2017 8:24 pm, edited 7 times in total.
tryingbe
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Re: 1985 Dodge Omni GLH Turbo Microsquirt

Postby Matt Cramer » Wed Sep 20, 2017 11:28 am

Did you try the Chrysler 2.2 ignition settings on the current release? They change the code for these a lot when the 3.3.0 code came out and others have reported the new version works.

Overall, this looks like a very cool build. Thanks for posting it up!
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Re: 1985 Dodge Omni GLH Turbo Microsquirt

Postby tryingbe » Wed Sep 20, 2017 12:49 pm

Matt Cramer wrote:Did you try the Chrysler 2.2 ignition settings on the current release? They change the code for these a lot when the 3.3.0 code came out and others have reported the new version works.

Overall, this looks like a very cool build. Thanks for posting it up!


Do you mean did I try the factory distributor/HEP setup with MS? No, I did not. Chrysler's no longer available 2.2/2.5 hall effect pickup sensor, often DOA aftermarket HEP sensor, its 30 year old wiring connector, distributor, plastic welded shutter wheel, single coil setup, are all weak points in my opinion. I was happy to get rid of all of those parts. :yeah!:

https://web.archive.org/web/20160912225 ... quirt.html

I was lucky my friend has access to a waterjet machine and he cut a 36-1 wheel and welded to the crank pulley for me. I offered his service to the Dodge community, and so far I have zero interest.
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Re: 1985 Dodge Omni GLH Turbo Microsquirt

Postby jsmcortina » Thu Sep 21, 2017 4:22 pm

A 36-1 wheel will give more accurate timing than the stock setup ever could.

James
I can supply, repair or upgrade Megasquirts in UK. http://www.jamesmurrayengineering.co.uk

My Success story: viewtopic.php?f=104&t=34277
MSEXTRA documentation at: http://www.msextra.com/doc/index.html
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Re: 1985 Dodge Omni GLH Turbo Microsquirt

Postby tryingbe » Fri Sep 22, 2017 7:58 am

jsmcortina wrote:A 36-1 wheel will give more accurate timing than the stock setup ever could.

James


You are very correct.

When I set base ignition timing with the factory computer and HEP, timing will jump from 10 to 12 to 14 to 12 and so on. After the switch to Megasquirt, timing is dead on at whatever number I set it every time.
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Re: 1985 Dodge Omni GLH Turbo Microsquirt

Postby tryingbe » Sat Oct 21, 2017 8:43 pm

I've been asked about the knock system I use, so I thought I write it down.

MS2/Microsquirt only accept knock sensor with a knock module, and most of the knock modules has only a output of 0-5V digital on/off. I wanted something more, and I found lilknockmeter.

Features of lilknockmeter are:
A set of LEDs from green to yellow to orange and red, giving you the severity of knocks (LED lights is adjustable via software)
Audio jack output (use headphone to listen to knock!)
0-5v on/off digital output
0-5v analogue output
Software to calibrate the lilknockmeter

I was very happy to find lilknockmeter, you will not find another product with all these features and this low price! Product is made in California, great support from the Leonard, the lilknockmeter creator!

I used the parts below for my install.

A knock module call lilknockmeter, https://www.ebay.com/itm/Knock-sensor-gauge-with-audio-full-digital-knock-gauge-turbo-nitrous-/292278629407?hash=item440d29f41f:g:ecAAAOxyUylTUcSv&vxp=mtr, made by Insane Import Performance
a VW BOSCH knock sensor 0261231038 (3 wire knock sensor, signal, ground, and ground for the shielding)
VW N90905502 m10x1.5 to m8x1.25 stud, $2-$3 at VW dealer
M8x1.25 washer
M8x1.25 nut
3 wire BOSCH sensor connector, https://www.ebay.com/itm/B1-Rectangle-Bosch-Style-3-wire-TPS-Sensor-Connector-Pigtail-With-Rubber-Boot/231764156971?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Stock Chrysler knock sensor is mounted on the intake manifold between number 2 and number 3 runner.
The knock sensor is now mounted at the AC bracket at the block between the 1st and 2nd cylinder.
Image

Lilknockmeter is wired up in the car with 12v, ground,0-5V analogue going to Microsquirt, and the shielded cable going to the knock sensor.

My current lilknockmeter software settings are

Frequency = 6.64kHz (I used this to calculate knock frequency https://www.phormula.com/KnockCalculator.aspx)
Gain = 2.0
Time = 240
Threshold = 0500 (0 to 1024 range, corresponds to 0-5V)
Cylinder = 4

Chrysler uses 0-5 V analogue setup, since I can only set up the LED come on at one voltage, I set it at 2.5V
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Re: 1985 Dodge Omni GLH Turbo Microsquirt

Postby tryingbe » Sun Dec 17, 2017 4:41 pm

Made 250whp at 12.5psi and 350whp at 23.5psi. :yeah!:


Image
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