Does this look right?

General talk about successes. See older information on MSRUNS forum.
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Avinitlarge
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Does this look right?

Post by Avinitlarge »

Sorry if this is in the wrong section

I went for a power run today on the rolling road, 230bhp @ 18psi (flywheel)

Im convinced the run was not done properly, The power output sounds WAY too low, Ive attached a datalog from the power run to see if anyone can see anything amiss, Can some one please look and give me peace of mind
Last edited by Avinitlarge on Sat Dec 09, 2006 3:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
sportage4x4
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Post by sportage4x4 »

under boost and higher rpms does it say ZERO o2 volts? is it really that rich? if it is that rich (the numbers approaching the zeros are fairly rich too) then thats your problem. too much fuel. or not enough timing, one of the two.

edit: also, looks like that turbo is a bit too big, doesnt it? it doesnt make full boost until 5500ish, and the dyno pulls end before 6k
1990 Mazda Miata: GM Gen3 V8 swap, 4.8L, custom cam, 2x GT2860R turbos, MS3 + MS3X.
2003 Kia Rio wagon: Mazda B6T/G25MR swap, Miata CAS, IHI RHF5 @ 2bar, LSx truck coils, P&H board, boost control.
Avinitlarge
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Post by Avinitlarge »

sportage4x4 wrote:under boost and higher rpms does it say ZERO o2 volts? is it really that rich? if it is that rich (the numbers approaching the zeros are fairly rich too) then thats your problem. too much fuel. or not enough timing, one of the two.

edit: also, looks like that turbo is a bit too big, doesnt it? it doesnt make full boost until 5500ish, and the dyno pulls end before 6k
Look at the TPS line, Its not held at 100 (WOT)

If I have any more advance i get det

It was running rich, Which I forgot to check before hand

The turbo under normal road conditions is running full boost by 3500rpm
sportage4x4
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Post by sportage4x4 »

try leaning it out a lot. 0v on a LC1 is under 9:1 AFR, thats mighty rich.
1990 Mazda Miata: GM Gen3 V8 swap, 4.8L, custom cam, 2x GT2860R turbos, MS3 + MS3X.
2003 Kia Rio wagon: Mazda B6T/G25MR swap, Miata CAS, IHI RHF5 @ 2bar, LSx truck coils, P&H board, boost control.
MegaScott
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Post by MegaScott »

Yeah I would agree, closer to 12-1 is going to be better for power. I bet good for 10 to 20% more power which would get you closer to 260-275HP
Avinitlarge
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Post by Avinitlarge »

I get told so many different things, I dont know whats what. So what you are saying is set the full boost AFR's to about 12.1:1??
MegaScott
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Post by MegaScott »

Avinitlarge wrote:I get told so many different things, I dont know whats what. So what you are saying is set the full boost AFR's to about 12.1:1??
or somewhere there about 12.0:1 to 13.5:1

Like it shows on the table here - http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Extra ... m#wblambda

and here - http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Extra ... #WBtargets

like this table (except the map values would be for a turbo) -

Image
T3Bunny
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Post by T3Bunny »

Traditionaly the AFR was 12.0:1 or so. That was for safety because most people couldn't afford to install a 3k plus wideband into their car. Also as recently as 4-5 years ago most EFI system couldn't even accept a windband signal input.

A couple years ago the prices started falling, then the LC-1 came along making it foolish NOT to run a wideband. Now all of the real EFI players have wideband nputs, and a couple even have built in controlers.

We can safetly run it for more power AND for more economy too now. I usally aim for 12.5: 1 in boost.
Forget the porn, my bathroom is full of car manuals...
1977 Rabbit (retired)
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