Toyota ST215 Caldina engine : 3SGTE on MS3+MS3X
Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 3:56 pm
Hello everyone!
Here's my project and I can call it a success :
The car :
1991 Toyota Celica GT-S with a 4th gen 3SGTE engine swap from a 1997-2002 Caldina GT-T
The engine :
4 cylinders, 2.0L, turbo, COP with built-in igniters, high-impedance 540cc/min injectors, 36-2 crank trigger wheel, a trigger arm on the intake camshaft, crank and cam sensors are both VR sensors, OEM (Toyota) CLT and MAP sensor, RIAT IAT sensor mounted in the stock location (intake manifold plenum), AEM UEGO gauge and wideband, 3-wire OEM PWM idle valve.
The brain :
Hardware : v3.57 main board + MS3 + MS3X
Software : MS3 v1.1.2
Tuning : TunerStudio Beta v2.05d
Datalogging : Megalogviewer v3.1.0
The history :
Previously, this engine was running nicely with a MS2 v3.0 using a EDIS ignition system (36-1 crank trigger wheel, Ford VR sensor, EDIS coilpack, EDIS module, custom spark plug wires). In 2009-2010 winter, I decided to convert it to stock wiring, stock ECU, stock sensors, stock everything (when I did the swap initially, I bought the engine without any ECU and a cut wiring harness, so I went MS2 at the first time. I sourced all the OEM missing parts right after the swap). In 2010 spring, the engine ran nicely on the stock ECU, but, I felt like I needed some more way to fine tune the engine for more power. While I was doing the conversion to the stock ECU, I tried to go full sequential and I added a bunch of board modifications and add-on boards to the MS2 and it resulted in a fried MS2 chip. I discovered that my DIY electronics skills are limited. I learned that I should let the pros do their job and pay for it. So, I bought a brand new complete MS3 unit from DIYautotune in 2010 summer. I did an adapter harness to be able to switch from the stock ECU to the MS3 unit by only disconnecting 4 ECU plugs. I used a 31/24/22/28 receptacle, a female solder cup DB37 connector and a male solder cup DB37 connector.
What I was able to do with the MS3+MS3X :
-full sequential fuel injection
-full sequential ignition timing (COP)
-tacho output
-launch control
-closed-loop EGO control
-closed-loop idle control
-closed-loop boost control
What is on the to-do list for 2011 :
-enable fan control
-enable the stock in-dash Check Engine warning light as a shift light with the spare outputs
-instead of using the clutch start switch for launch control (clutch pedal needs to be fully depressed), I'll use the cruise control clutch switch (clutch pedal needs to be depressed only a little bit). Then, enable flafshift.
-because I'm using the OEM MAP sensor as my main MAP reading, I can now enable barometric compensation using the on-board MAP sensor.
-enable VSS by taping into the cruise control speed sensor wire.
-fine-tune EAE
-fine-tune injection timing
-fine-tune boost control PID
-fine-tune idle PID
What is on the to-do list for 2012 :
-fine-tune injection timing
-fine-tune boost control PID
-Try using the SD card (need to find a SD card reader for my laptop)
-Try to remove that annoying Loss of Sync reason #2 when the engine is cold and I'm around 1900-2000 RPM. Maybe playing with the VR pots.
I've joined a schematic drawing of my adapter harness and my latest .msq file.
Feel free to make any comments or ask any questions!
Sam
Here's my project and I can call it a success :
The car :
1991 Toyota Celica GT-S with a 4th gen 3SGTE engine swap from a 1997-2002 Caldina GT-T
The engine :
4 cylinders, 2.0L, turbo, COP with built-in igniters, high-impedance 540cc/min injectors, 36-2 crank trigger wheel, a trigger arm on the intake camshaft, crank and cam sensors are both VR sensors, OEM (Toyota) CLT and MAP sensor, RIAT IAT sensor mounted in the stock location (intake manifold plenum), AEM UEGO gauge and wideband, 3-wire OEM PWM idle valve.
The brain :
Hardware : v3.57 main board + MS3 + MS3X
Software : MS3 v1.1.2
Tuning : TunerStudio Beta v2.05d
Datalogging : Megalogviewer v3.1.0
The history :
Previously, this engine was running nicely with a MS2 v3.0 using a EDIS ignition system (36-1 crank trigger wheel, Ford VR sensor, EDIS coilpack, EDIS module, custom spark plug wires). In 2009-2010 winter, I decided to convert it to stock wiring, stock ECU, stock sensors, stock everything (when I did the swap initially, I bought the engine without any ECU and a cut wiring harness, so I went MS2 at the first time. I sourced all the OEM missing parts right after the swap). In 2010 spring, the engine ran nicely on the stock ECU, but, I felt like I needed some more way to fine tune the engine for more power. While I was doing the conversion to the stock ECU, I tried to go full sequential and I added a bunch of board modifications and add-on boards to the MS2 and it resulted in a fried MS2 chip. I discovered that my DIY electronics skills are limited. I learned that I should let the pros do their job and pay for it. So, I bought a brand new complete MS3 unit from DIYautotune in 2010 summer. I did an adapter harness to be able to switch from the stock ECU to the MS3 unit by only disconnecting 4 ECU plugs. I used a 31/24/22/28 receptacle, a female solder cup DB37 connector and a male solder cup DB37 connector.
What I was able to do with the MS3+MS3X :
-full sequential fuel injection
-full sequential ignition timing (COP)
-tacho output
-launch control
-closed-loop EGO control
-closed-loop idle control
-closed-loop boost control
What is on the to-do list for 2011 :
-enable fan control
-enable the stock in-dash Check Engine warning light as a shift light with the spare outputs
-instead of using the clutch start switch for launch control (clutch pedal needs to be fully depressed), I'll use the cruise control clutch switch (clutch pedal needs to be depressed only a little bit). Then, enable flafshift.
-because I'm using the OEM MAP sensor as my main MAP reading, I can now enable barometric compensation using the on-board MAP sensor.
-enable VSS by taping into the cruise control speed sensor wire.
-fine-tune EAE
-fine-tune injection timing
-fine-tune boost control PID
-fine-tune idle PID
What is on the to-do list for 2012 :
-fine-tune injection timing
-fine-tune boost control PID
-Try using the SD card (need to find a SD card reader for my laptop)
-Try to remove that annoying Loss of Sync reason #2 when the engine is cold and I'm around 1900-2000 RPM. Maybe playing with the VR pots.
I've joined a schematic drawing of my adapter harness and my latest .msq file.
Feel free to make any comments or ask any questions!
Sam