1989 Opel Kadett 2.0 16v

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1989 Opel Kadett 2.0 16v

Postby mattuuk81 » Mon Feb 08, 2016 3:20 pm

Hi All,

just thought I'd let you know that my 1989 Opel Kadett (LHD Mk2 Vauxhall Astra) is now up and running on a Microsquirt V3 :D

I had originally got it all running, MOT'd etc. early 2015 on an MS1 which I had built years ago.
Unfortunately, it appears that at some point I had damaged the MS1, so I figured I'd save myself the time as I asl couldn't find my Stim anymore either...

Engine wise it's a C20XE
Running Bosh 305 CC injectors out of a C20LET, but at the stock 2.5 Bar, so flowing approx 280cc/min.
I'm using the stock 60-2 wheel and VR sensor, settings @ 114 deg.
I'm using a Vauxhall DIS coilpack as found on the c16xe / 14xe /18xe etc. engines - basically as found on the mid 90's to early 2000's Vauxhalls, which I've mounted on an adaptor where the distributor used to be. pretty simple to use - Earth, Ignition and 2x 5v spark inputs :)
I've also got a LC1 in there - basicall also from a few years back... seems to work OK for now :)

I had saved my old fuel and spark tables, which I imported - the car fire up right away, although it died after a few seconds...
I figured I'd need to mess around with the ASE and WUE settings, so I set them to roughly what I had on the MS1.
Fired up and kept going!

Currently running on semi / 2 squirts alternating with 1&4 / 2&3 injectors linked together.

The plan is to get it MOT'd again, then there is soe work required (new clutch, timing belt, maybe sort out some new gaskets). At this point, I have a set of 2003 Kawasaki ZX636 B1 throttle bodies which I'll be fitting :)

Thanks again to those who have helped me out over the last few years with my misendeavours on the MS1...

Thanks

Mathew
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Re: 1989 Opel Kadett 2.0 16v

Postby DeimonNG » Fri Feb 26, 2016 4:25 am

interesting thread
what cams do you have?
show the msq for example
Sorry for my bad english
corsa daily car 20xe+
MS2 V3.0 seq wasted spark
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Re: 1989 Opel Kadett 2.0 16v

Postby mattuuk81 » Thu Mar 10, 2016 4:00 am

Hi,
internally, the engine is currently completely standard. It makes sense to me to get the engine and base tune sorted out on known good parameters before starting to tune it.
It is one of the earlier round-toothed, non pot-type flywheel engines.

Future state cams wise, I will only do this with forged aftermarket pistons - the standard ones simply don't have enough metal to deepen the valve pockets enough to enable the use of cams with significant lift increases - just changing overlap and duration is a bad compromise in my opinion.

I see that you are basically using a microsquirt module.

I have just switched my trigger wheel settings from 114 rising edge to 120 falling edge as part of trying to resolve sync-loss issues I am experiencing at around 6700 RPM (give or take 100). I would be very interested if you are having a similar problem.

I noticed that you were having some idle stability issues - I have a quite steady idle when warm. I'm not using an IACV (due to wanting to go to throttle bodies later), but mine likes to idle best around 13.5-14:1 AFR, this may be because I am using semi-sequential / alternating. simultaneous needed 12.5:1 - 13:1 to get a reasonable idle - which makes sense.

would you post your current MSQ also for comparison? would be interesting :)

Thanks

Mathew
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Re: 1989 Opel Kadett 2.0 16v

Postby mattuuk81 » Thu Mar 09, 2017 2:33 am

Hi All,

it has been a while since my last update on this install. I took the car off the road June 2016 (put it in the garage as was re-doing the back garden).
My initial plan was to just split engine and gearbox to get at the clutch, which was slipping (I never bothered to check it when I fitted the engine).

That quickly changed to a strip down and re-fresh gaskets as I wanted to fit these ITB's (Kawasaki 636) which I got ages ago:

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Then I did the stupid thing and started hunting around on eBay :roll:

I found a set of high comp. forged pistons (12.5:1) with H-beam rods for a price I was willing to pay 8)

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Everything got stripped and put through the parts washer (I found that my original pistons were actually also the earlier forged OE type - good to have spares). Head, crank etc. everything got checked over by my local engineering shop - Head was lightly skimmed to straighten it, flywheel re-finished and crank polished.

Block painted (don't worry - there is method to the madness of using white! I can spot a leak a mile off this way!):

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Head (and other parts) also painted:

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Everything was trial-assembled with plastiguage and the actual parts to check all clearances (new bearings etc. also note the ARP bottom end-studs):

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Stripped all the head components down and re-cleaned everything:

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More shiny bits and marking TDC:

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I re-built the head with double valve springs and new Hydraulic lifters. Cams are Newman Cams 288 deg 11.2 mm lift items - which are pretty much on the edge of hydraulic lifter capability, but I didn't want the added hassle of shims (they also supplied the springs and lifters).... Cams and Pulleys fitted and added initial timing positions (lift at TDC):

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Belt on, tensioned and cams timed in (TB's trial fitted - just because):

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Engine going back in:

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Other parts all pretty much added (catch-can, FPR, new alternator). I had to make some brackets for the throttle cable and alternator mounts etc - local hydraulic company made my fuel lines previously, so I went back there :)

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Everything in and wired up now! please note the change of FPR - wasn't happy with the cheapy ebay one (worth trying for the price though):

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Interestingly, once everything was in and I had primed the oil pump and made the base amendments to the MSQ, it fired right up! Took it through the camshaft running in procedure straight away :yeah!:

That's when the problems started:

Fuel pressure wouldn't adjust to the required pressure (replaced FPR with Sytec item) - still no better.

Replaced Fuel Pump with Walbro 255l/h (GSS340) in-tank - much better!

Fans not kicking in - nearly overheated! - Rad switch dead - wire in 40 Amp relay to control from MS.

Fans not working great at controlling temp - wired in the wrong way round - doh! changed polarity, now suck air through rad :oops:

Alternator not charging - I have an Acewell dash - no physical idiot light + broken cable somewhere in the loom. Turns out these alternators need the idiot light - 3W - no more, no less! Checked with cables run round the engine and a light wired in (direct to batt +) - resolves issue. Replaced bulb with 3W 56 Ohm wire-wound resistor (a little higher than it should be but works) for testing - works. Wire in another relay on an MS output to control Alternator (engine starts without alternator now, so a little less load), then the alternator is switched on after a few seconds / when the RPM is high enough.

I still have a little leak on the sump - will look into that after I've drained the running in oil after MOT day.

Still have cooling issues / temp problems! turns out I've plumbed the cooling system in stupidly / incorrectly as I went on logical proximity to components :oops: For reference - the header tank DOES NOT go to the Cylinder Head outlet - it goes to the water bar (engine came out of a Calibra - they have the header tank on the bulkhead - hence the different plumbing locations on water bar). Head outlet goes to heater. New water bar and appropriate silicone hoses on order - to be fitted post MOT.


MOT is this Saturday - should go through OK, please wish me luck :)

I'm really looking forward to driving this car again before starting the next MS project (fuel injected a-series mini). I have left the standard exhaust manifold for now to get running and fuel / ignition maps pretty much there. I'm looking at having a new manifold / exhaust made as these will be restricting the engine a little at the moment. I suppose it depends how much fun it is for now.

All the best

Mathew
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Re: 1989 Opel Kadett 2.0 16v

Postby robbob1980 » Fri Apr 28, 2017 8:26 am

Hi.

I've only just noticed your thread. Nice work on the rebuild. How is your car doing now? Did it pass the MOT?
I'm just in the process of running in my C20XE turbo after converting/rebuilding it over the winter. Before that I had it running on GSXR throttle bodies for a while but couldn't seem to get the AE sorted. I'm still struggling with it now to be honest.
A word of warning though. When I pulled my head off there was quite a few det marks on the pistons. Not sure when it was happening and was probably because I didn't have the ignition tuned properly but I thought it was safe. Once I've run my engine in I'll be getting it mapped by a pro I think.

Oh yeah, it's in a mini too :D

Rob
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Re: 1989 Opel Kadett 2.0 16v

Postby mattuuk81 » Sat Apr 29, 2017 6:05 am

Hi Rob,

Yes - all passed. Just the usual kind of areas of concern on a mk2 Astra as advisories to fix ( wills, basically).
I've got the panels there for that, just need to sort out some more work on the mini before taking the welder.

I've got no set marks, thankfully (been checking after every session).

It is running quite well - very driveable, even with the lumpy cams. I currently still have AR turned off as I find it interferes with the mapping process too much and I'm not yet happy with the map.

Good luck with the turbo build!

Thanks

Mathew
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