1985 Dodge Omni GLH Turbo Microsquirt
Posted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 11:02 am
I have a 1985 Dodge Omni GLH with lots and lots of modifications, staying 2.2L block and 8 valve cylinder head. It made 290WHP at 20psi on E85 couple years ago on a socketed 1987 Dodge logic module ECU that I programmed. I was experiencing electrical issue with my car and decided it isn't worth my time to troubleshoot the issue, since there is only two possibilities, computers or wiring, none is available new. Wanting to keep the car, aftermarket ECU is the only option and Megasquirt / Microsqurit sounded so good.
For simplicity sake I went with batch firing injectors and wasted spark ignition system, so the compact\slightly cheaper Microsquirt would work fine for me as I will only need one crank sensor and a 36-1 wheel welded to my crank. Factory Chrysler's 2.2/2.5 hall effect sensor/distributor setup is broken on MS.
My Microsquirt input/outputs are the following.
Inputs are:
crank/hall sensor, shielded from the shielding of a coax cable.(no need for cam sensor)
coolant temperature sensor (Chrysler sensor)
air temperature sensor (open element Chrysler sensor)
throttle position sensor (Stock Chrysler sensor)
ethanol sensor (GM sensor)
o2 sensor (AEM Uego with 5v output)
manifold absolute pressure sensor (GM 3 bar map)
Bosch wideband knock sensor with lilknockmeter installed. lilknockmeter can display light, has headphone output, has on/off digital output, as well as analogue output... [/i] Dodge 2.2/2.5 are very noise engines. Stock ECU consider .8V is a knock at 2000rpm, while it consider 4V is a knock at 4000RPM. So I need something that can give me an analogue output.
Clutch Switch for launch control and flat shift.
Outputs are:
idle control (on/off solenoid, not the stock stepper motor)
Edit: MAC valve (same valve people used for boost solenoid) internal opening is too small, only raise idle by 500-100rpm, not enough for my a/c needs. Trying a different valve/solenoid
Edit2: New idle on/off valve is found one bay. 1/4" SS 12V DC Solenoid Valve STAINLESS Steel / VITON/FKM S20V N/C
Edit3: Upgraded to a Ford PWN idle valve, should have used this in the first place
tachometer
two set of Ignition coil (goes to 420a coil)
two set of injectors (75lbs low impedance injectors with a Volvo injector resistor)
a/c cut off - works great
fan relay wire - works great
fuel pump
Boost control is handle by my HDi electronic boost controller, and I am very happy with that.
Added an external voltage regulator from a 80's dodge truck for the alterantor, super easy to do.
Changed all factory fusible links to PAL fuseblock, and added a blade fuseblock for Microsquirt with an relay for ignition switch on
I have almost $1500 into Microsquirt related parts
Microsquirt + 8 ft harness $369
36-1 wheel $32.00
Weld 36-1 wheel to crank $100 - Going to have the wheel fully welded and balanced, tips from a racer that did the same thing and broke his wheel off once due to spot weld and broke the crank the second time due to balancing.
crank sensor $43
QuadSpark $89.00
MAP sensor connector $8.50
MAT sensor connector $10.00
ECT sensor connector $10.00
TPS sensor connector $10.00
420A wires $20
420A coil $20
Wiring Connector packs $30
USB to serial $15
Misc wires $40
Uninsulated crimp $20
Crimp tool $13
Shrink Wrap $10
Misc bolts $15
Relay $15
Fusebox $25
Fuses $5
E85 sensor + connector $80
lilknockmeter $120
bosch knock sensor, connector, stud $40
Injector resister $30
wire loop $20
MAC valve for idle control $30
3m tape $6
Tuner Studio + MegaViewer $79.95
etc...
Separating engine harness with body harness.
Welded the 36-1 wheel to my crank pulley
Microsquirt and Quadspark at stock ECU location
Some people have coil on plug, I have coil on distributor!
Mounted my 420a coil on my distributor, after taking all the moving parts out of the distributor.
Welded some 1/4" thick metal for my crank sensor bracket.
Injector resistor, on/off idle solenoid, and 3 bar map under the solenoid
E85 sensor
Boost control solenoid, hobbs pressure switch, (opens at 0psi to control the solenoid that allow blowby to from Valvecover to pre-turbo piping), PCV blowby solenoid
Fuseblocks, PC680 battery, and Volvo radiator fan relay
Wiring mostly cleaned up
For simplicity sake I went with batch firing injectors and wasted spark ignition system, so the compact\slightly cheaper Microsquirt would work fine for me as I will only need one crank sensor and a 36-1 wheel welded to my crank. Factory Chrysler's 2.2/2.5 hall effect sensor/distributor setup is broken on MS.
My Microsquirt input/outputs are the following.
Inputs are:
crank/hall sensor, shielded from the shielding of a coax cable.(no need for cam sensor)
coolant temperature sensor (Chrysler sensor)
air temperature sensor (open element Chrysler sensor)
throttle position sensor (Stock Chrysler sensor)
ethanol sensor (GM sensor)
o2 sensor (AEM Uego with 5v output)
manifold absolute pressure sensor (GM 3 bar map)
Bosch wideband knock sensor with lilknockmeter installed. lilknockmeter can display light, has headphone output, has on/off digital output, as well as analogue output... [/i] Dodge 2.2/2.5 are very noise engines. Stock ECU consider .8V is a knock at 2000rpm, while it consider 4V is a knock at 4000RPM. So I need something that can give me an analogue output.
Clutch Switch for launch control and flat shift.
Outputs are:
idle control (on/off solenoid, not the stock stepper motor)
Edit: MAC valve (same valve people used for boost solenoid) internal opening is too small, only raise idle by 500-100rpm, not enough for my a/c needs. Trying a different valve/solenoid
Edit2: New idle on/off valve is found one bay. 1/4" SS 12V DC Solenoid Valve STAINLESS Steel / VITON/FKM S20V N/C
Edit3: Upgraded to a Ford PWN idle valve, should have used this in the first place
tachometer
two set of Ignition coil (goes to 420a coil)
two set of injectors (75lbs low impedance injectors with a Volvo injector resistor)
a/c cut off - works great
fan relay wire - works great
fuel pump
Boost control is handle by my HDi electronic boost controller, and I am very happy with that.
Added an external voltage regulator from a 80's dodge truck for the alterantor, super easy to do.
Changed all factory fusible links to PAL fuseblock, and added a blade fuseblock for Microsquirt with an relay for ignition switch on
I have almost $1500 into Microsquirt related parts
Microsquirt + 8 ft harness $369
36-1 wheel $32.00
Weld 36-1 wheel to crank $100 - Going to have the wheel fully welded and balanced, tips from a racer that did the same thing and broke his wheel off once due to spot weld and broke the crank the second time due to balancing.
crank sensor $43
QuadSpark $89.00
MAP sensor connector $8.50
MAT sensor connector $10.00
ECT sensor connector $10.00
TPS sensor connector $10.00
420A wires $20
420A coil $20
Wiring Connector packs $30
USB to serial $15
Misc wires $40
Uninsulated crimp $20
Crimp tool $13
Shrink Wrap $10
Misc bolts $15
Relay $15
Fusebox $25
Fuses $5
E85 sensor + connector $80
lilknockmeter $120
bosch knock sensor, connector, stud $40
Injector resister $30
wire loop $20
MAC valve for idle control $30
3m tape $6
Tuner Studio + MegaViewer $79.95
etc...
Separating engine harness with body harness.
Welded the 36-1 wheel to my crank pulley
Microsquirt and Quadspark at stock ECU location
Some people have coil on plug, I have coil on distributor!
Mounted my 420a coil on my distributor, after taking all the moving parts out of the distributor.
Welded some 1/4" thick metal for my crank sensor bracket.
Injector resistor, on/off idle solenoid, and 3 bar map under the solenoid
E85 sensor
Boost control solenoid, hobbs pressure switch, (opens at 0psi to control the solenoid that allow blowby to from Valvecover to pre-turbo piping), PCV blowby solenoid
Fuseblocks, PC680 battery, and Volvo radiator fan relay
Wiring mostly cleaned up