Tunerstudio and AEM UEGO Problems...

[Mazdasquirted]

Currently running MS1 standalone on my 95 Miata, I previously had a LC-1 Wideband and had the 0-5v wire soldered to a wire coming out of my harness that is solely for the use of a WB02. It worked fine and registered with both Megatune and Tunerstudio, the datalogging was flawless. I had too many issues with the LC-1's reliability which led me to get an AEM UEGO. It has the same wire for 0-5v output as most of you probably know, but I can't get it to work at all with Megatune or Tunerstudio. The AFR gauge just reads a flat 7.35 but the AEM gauge is reading fine, and you can clearly see where this would be a problem trying to tune and stare at a gauge at the same time. Only at different random times will the AFR gauge on Tunerstudio dash actually work, and when it does work its accurate to the AEM gauge, but like I said only in a random fashion does it ever work.

Any help please on how to maybe fix this problem, i've just upgraded to the registered version of Tunerstudio so I would love to be able to take advantage of the VE live feature.

[LT401Vette]

I would check you connections and the output of the wire you have connected to the MS. It sounds like an electrical problem

[Mazdasquirted]

I would check you connections and the output of the wire you have connected to the MS. It sounds like an electrical problem

its a soldered and heatshrunk connection, but I guess I will go take a multimeter to make sure I get voltage through the wire but I am just confused by the situation I guess.

[Mazdasquirted]

found out why the tunerstudio was reading the AFR one minute and the next none at all, a piece of the wire 0-5v wire from the AEM was bare and making contact with the panel behind my seat causing it to ground out.

Now I believe I am in the same boat as everybody else with getting the AEM and Tunerstudio to read the same number, I seem to be off about .3-.4 with the AEM being the leaner reading. Any help ideas for this please?

[Tjabo]

From back when I was on MS1, there was an elaborate work-around for this problem that could be input into the .ini file in MegaTune. I think if you googled something about it related to "Plastic Racing" or Plastik Racing" you might find it. It was written up by a guy who was "Squirting" a Saturn (who might still frequent this board). Not knowing how the two programs are similar or differ, I can't say whether the same solution would work.

To be simplistic, you can just adjust your AFR targets accordingly, or my best solution was to upgrade to MS2/Extra, which fixed the problem and came with a multitude of other niceties. The AEM Uego also works perfectly with MS3, so if you're going that direction you're in good shape too.

[LT401Vette]

That is interesting that the AEM is working as expected on an MS2 and not on the MS1. It should be more or less the same math...

I still don't understand why the AEM doesn't seem to work to the published output, but thought this was for all MS's, not just MS1. It is the same hardware, just an 8 bit ADC vs a 10 bit.

[Matt Cramer]

That is interesting that the AEM is working as expected on an MS2 and not on the MS1. It should be more or less the same math...

I still don't understand why the AEM doesn't seem to work to the published output, but thought this was for all MS's, not just MS1. It is the same hardware, just an 8 bit ADC vs a 10 bit.

We've had a couple AEM users measure their output voltages and confirmed they really don't match the published output. It appears they start drifting from the published specs after a couple years in service, or it may be that earlier ones were built with less precise components.

[LT401Vette]

We've had a couple AEM users measure their output voltages and confirmed they really don't match the published output. It appears they start drifting from the published specs after a couple years in service, or it may be that earlier ones were built with less precise components.

That i believe, because in the past even trying to come up with a new formula that does work accurately, it seems to vary each time. But are the gauges just as inconsistent?
And then it should read the same on the MS2.

[Mazdasquirted]

From back when I was on MS1, there was an elaborate work-around for this problem that could be input into the .ini file in MegaTune. I think if you googled something about it related to "Plastic Racing" or Plastik Racing" you might find it. It was written up by a guy who was "Squirting" a Saturn (who might still frequent this board). Not knowing how the two programs are similar or differ, I can't say whether the same solution would work.

To be simplistic, you can just adjust your AFR targets accordingly, or my best solution was to upgrade to MS2/Extra, which fixed the problem and came with a multitude of other niceties. The AEM Uego also works perfectly with MS3, so if you're going that direction you're in good shape too.

I have currently been trying what you have mentioned, I adjusted my AFR targets accordingly to the .3-.5 difference in value that the Tunerstudio is showing vs my AEM gauge. I adjusted so and ran the autotune feature, it being the first time I ever used the autotune feature today I was REALLLY excited/surprised about the efficiency and quickness in which the feature got me almost right on top of my targets for light load/cruise. I am still very wary of going WOT as I am afraid of how much it has leaned out my top end with the differing readouts between gauge and laptop. I was previously sinking deep into fat zone on the big end (10.8-11.1). I read that some people got away with just grounding the AEM at the same spot as their MS, mine being a standalone and using the factory harness I just assumed that I should ground the AEM at the same spot the original ECU was grounded, but no such real luck with the accuracy changing. I assume my next step is to look up the "Plastikracing" write-up? Anybody have any other suggestions before I break into that?

[LT401Vette]

I am still very wary of going WOT as I am afraid of how much it has leaned out my top end with the differing readouts between gauge and laptop.

Caution should be taken if you are running heavy WOT. Typically I just leave the "Update Controller" check box unchecked if you are doing much WOT. Then it will still generate the corrected table, but won't send it to the controller until you have had the chance to review it an make sure it passes the sanity check. I'm no worried about it correcting wrong, that is the same math that is used everywhere, the concern is more around if something isn't right like a bad lambda sensor. Most of these conditions TS tries to detect and stop correcting, but everything can not be.

Leaving Update controller unchecked make it pretty safe, no data is sent until you click send.

[Mazdasquirted]

I am still very wary of going WOT as I am afraid of how much it has leaned out my top end with the differing readouts between gauge and laptop.

Caution should be taken if you are running heavy WOT. Typically I just leave the "Update Controller" check box unchecked if you are doing much WOT. Then it will still generate the corrected table, but won't send it to the controller until you have had the chance to review it an make sure it passes the sanity check. I'm no worried about it correcting wrong, that is the same math that is used everywhere, the concern is more around if something isn't right like a bad lambda sensor. Most of these conditions TS tries to detect and stop correcting, but everything can not be.

Leaving Update controller unchecked make it pretty safe, no data is sent until you click send.

Its working great now, I just need to have a view at the AEM voltage table for AFRs so I can reset my AFR targets...I personally went in and fattened up the big end, seeing 11.1's at WOT...