$7 bluetooth WORKING on MS1!

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mattheripper
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Re: $7 bluetooth WORKING on MS1!

Post by mattheripper »

electronic wrote:I have both the hc-05 and hc-06 bt, I have them both paired to my phone, but have problems with AT commands to change the baud rate from 9600...............I tried microcontroller route, then usb to ttl converter, I am running out of ideas. It just won't return OK after I copy and paste AT command.
Hey man, I could figure out how to rebaud with hyperterminal for while, well only tried a couple times. But last night when I tried again, I found this video and found the missing links where all in the settings and stuff. I'm not wirehead so this video seemed to make it simple just pausing rewinding and making sure to change all the settings like he does.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_WdxDiFw4pE
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Hey_Allen
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Re: $7 bluetooth WORKING on MS1!

Post by Hey_Allen »

I have been playing with one of the USB-TTL adapters to configure one of the HC-05 bluetooth adapters myself.
The first part, the USB to TTL adapter is to allow your computer to talk to TTL voltages, using the serial protocols. It is not to connect to the db9 cable.
The HC-05 or -06 board talks to a device via the wires plugged into the side using TTL signals, and then connects to some other device using a serial protocol over bluetooth.

On a Megasquirt 3 board, the TTL signals are shifted to RS-232 on the MAX232 chip, and then go to the db9 connector on the end of the case. For one of us using a MS3 host board to use the bluetooth module, they first need to get the TTL signals before they go through the MAX232 chip, usually by removing that chip and running a couple of jumper wires from the TX and RX pins where the module would be installed.


That all said, if you are using a microsquirt as it sounds, other comments seem to be saying that you'll need a RS232-TTL level shifter board before connecting the bluetooth module, or to instead use a db9-bluetooth module that already has a max232 level shifter already present on the board. Something like this with an adapter to plug it into the serial cable, and probably power wires would do you well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Arduino-DB9 ... 337ec3e061
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Re: $7 bluetooth WORKING on MS1!

Post by electronic »

finally got an OK with my hc-06 blue tooth with serial adapter......, I was able to change its name, password and baud rate. Plug it in the bike with external 5v power supply and try msdroid...........it can't read my ecu definition..........Anybody know if msdroid works with microsquirt v3?
electronic
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Re: $7 bluetooth WORKING on MS1!

Post by electronic »

Hey_Allen wrote:I have been playing with one of the USB-TTL adapters to configure one of the HC-05 bluetooth adapters myself.
The first part, the USB to TTL adapter is to allow your computer to talk to TTL voltages, using the serial protocols. It is not to connect to the db9 cable.
The HC-05 or -06 board talks to a device via the wires plugged into the side using TTL signals, and then connects to some other device using a serial protocol over bluetooth.

On a Megasquirt 3 board, the TTL signals are shifted to RS-232 on the MAX232 chip, and then go to the db9 connector on the end of the case. For one of us using a MS3 host board to use the bluetooth module, they first need to get the TTL signals before they go through the MAX232 chip, usually by removing that chip and running a couple of jumper wires from the TX and RX pins where the module would be installed.


That all said, if you are using a microsquirt as it sounds, other comments seem to be saying that you'll need a RS232-TTL level shifter board before connecting the bluetooth module, or to instead use a db9-bluetooth module that already has a max232 level shifter already present on the board. Something like this with an adapter to plug it into the serial cable, and probably power wires would do you well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Arduino-DB9 ... 337ec3e061
Thanks man, I finally got it, was able to change its name, password, baud rate. What confused me the most in this thread is that there are 2 types of blue tooth adapters in this thread, all the info is kind of mixed together.
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Re: $7 bluetooth WORKING on MS1!

Post by mattheripper »

My searching lead me to an old post of yours.
racingmini_mtl wrote:
rickb794 wrote:So could one remove the v3.0 U6 chip and use TTL @ 5v?
Yes.
Would you suggest this for a cleaner install? I'm pretty good removing components. Like I'd rather get back to the source of a TTL signal and be able to not use the db9 period wire in the Bluetooth and put in a TTL to female usb if I ever needed a hard line out. Versus putting in a rs232 to TTL and the bluetooth.
But also taking out the U6 could cause problems for if the rx/tx were performing double duty elsewhere in my specific diypnp board. As well as U6's exact location isn't well labeled very clearly on the silk screen diagram seen on the link, of the microsquirt module specs, I posted a few posts back.
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Re: $7 bluetooth WORKING on MS1!

Post by Bean Bandit »

mattheripper wrote:My searching lead me to an old post of yours.
racingmini_mtl wrote:
rickb794 wrote:So could one remove the v3.0 U6 chip and use TTL @ 5v?
Yes.
Would you suggest this for a cleaner install? I'm pretty good removing components. Like I'd rather get back to the source of a TTL signal and be able to not use the db9 period wire in the Bluetooth and put in a TTL to female usb if I ever needed a hard line out. Versus putting in a rs232 to TTL and the bluetooth.
But also taking out the U6 could cause problems for if the rx/tx were performing double duty elsewhere in my specific diypnp board. As well as U6's exact location isn't well labeled very clearly on the silk screen diagram seen on the link, of the microsquirt module specs, I posted a few posts back.
IMG_20140612_114713.jpg
If you have a Microsquirt module you can tap into the TTL signals on there. It's a bit fiddly but worked for me. The two pins on the chip are broken out about a third inch away (don't have the schematics at hand nor remember the pins by heart).
I also installed a switch to cut the power to the Bluetooth module, although as long as I didn't connect through both ways simultaneously there was no errors.
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Re: $7 bluetooth WORKING on MS1!

Post by mattheripper »

Bean Bandit wrote:
IMG_20140612_
If you have a Microsquirt module you can tap into the TTL signals on there. It's a bit fiddly but worked for me. The two pins on the chip are broken out about a third inch away (don't have the schematics at hand nor remember the pins by heart).
I also installed a switch to cut the power to the Bluetooth module, although as long as I didn't connect through both ways simultaneously there was no errors.
Is it easy to spot the U6 when I open the case up again? Or could you look at these schematics and highlight where it is for me?
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/module.html
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Re: $7 bluetooth WORKING on MS1!

Post by Bean Bandit »

mattheripper wrote:
Bean Bandit wrote:
IMG_20140612_
If you have a Microsquirt module you can tap into the TTL signals on there. It's a bit fiddly but worked for me. The two pins on the chip are broken out about a third inch away (don't have the schematics at hand nor remember the pins by heart).
I also installed a switch to cut the power to the Bluetooth module, although as long as I didn't connect through both ways simultaneously there was no errors.
Is it easy to spot the U6 when I open the case up again? Or could you look at these schematics and highlight where it is for me?
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/module.html
It's not from U6 but pin 38&39 of the CPU. I'll take a better picture later and post it here.

In addition to your link here the CPU schematic http://www.msextra.com/doc/general/micr ... chems.html
On this picture http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/imag ... 2.2_lg.jpg you can see U5 (read the PS below) in the top right and both injector drivers next to the 10 pin header on mid left. Also visible the two traces breaking out pin 38 and 39 on the CPU.

Image Image
click for bigger version
Yellow cable goes from PS1/TXD on the microsquirt to RX on the Bluetooth side.

PS: BTW U6 (and U7) on the Microsquirt module are the injector drivers. The TTL to RS323 converter is U5 and located in the corner at the beginning of the 50 pin breakout pins and also has it's own GND, +5V and Tx,Rx breakout pins next to it (these Tx,Rx breakout points are after being processed by U5 - on a non DIYPNP board the DB9 connector would be attached there).

Hope that helps
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Re: $7 bluetooth WORKING on MS1!

Post by mattheripper »

Sick man that totally helps me out! Btw nice levin!
I really should be able to do it all fine now. But a few questions and advice since you got electronic game on me haha.
I will be having my bluetooth in case and a slot cut in the case for the bluetooth antenna to stick out. Would you suggest teeing into the ground and 5v on the inside legs of the db9 (basically what you did but on the inside) or from the ground and 5v on the microsquirt module itself (as in where you said it's been processed to rs232 by u5 already)? Also is there any resistors or diodes or anything on that green wire coming off your microsquirt module? Looks like something black bigger than shrink wrap so I'm just wondering/is there any resistors you'd suggest me putting anywhere in this mod? Also just to be straight yellow is ps1/txd on micro module to rx on bluetooth, so by default that green one is going rx on micro module to tx on bluetooth?
Thanks a ton for that clarification man!
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Bean Bandit
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Re: $7 bluetooth WORKING on MS1!

Post by Bean Bandit »

Glad I could help, it was a steep learning curve for me (way better with mechanics).

The last 2 pictures where from the test (cheap jumper wires no resistors or anything).
+5V I used off the pin next to the DB9 (where you would jumper to get +5V to the DB9 in the first place) - you can just about make out the solder point on my initial picture, underneath the switch.
GND I took directly from the proto area.
You could use +5V and GND on the module too without issues.

In my opinion you should be able to leave the Bluetooth device inside the case without a slot or anything (unless you have a screw on antenna like me, even that could have stayed inside if it wasn't for the size of it). The signal is pretty strong and easy to do some bench testing at home.

PS: thanks - just fitted some new suspension to get rid of that horrendous lean.
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Re: $7 bluetooth WORKING on MS1!

Post by mattheripper »

Bean Bandit wrote:Glad I could help, it was a steep learning curve for me (way better with mechanics).

The last 2 pictures where from the test (cheap jumper wires no resistors or anything).
+5V I used off the pin next to the DB9 (where you would jumper to get +5V to the DB9 in the first place) - you can just about make out the solder point on my initial picture, underneath the switch.
GND I took directly from the proto area.
You could use +5V and GND on the module too without issues.

In my opinion you should be able to leave the Bluetooth device inside the case without a slot or anything (unless you have a screw on antenna like me, even that could have stayed inside if it wasn't for the size of it). The signal is pretty strong and easy to do some bench testing at home.

PS: thanks - just fitted some new suspension to get rid of that horrendous lean.

Dude so I got my board out to do this and a couple other things and I'm wondering how you soldered in those tiny holes on the microsquirt module? Looks like I could mess stuff up, even though I'll be super careful. Did you get any special solder iron tip? What gauge wire did you use(although I guess I could just clip a few strands off the stripped section of wire. Also your db9 adapter still worked after yes? Thanks again!
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Re: $7 bluetooth WORKING on MS1!

Post by Bean Bandit »

I used one of the jumper wires I had laying around (one you could see in the pictures). Not sure what gauge it is but very thin. I used a fine tip (<1mm) on the solder iron and like you said be very careful. If you don't feel confident maybe seek out professional help for these two points. Worst case you would damage the CPU so paying some one a little might be worth it.
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Re: $7 bluetooth WORKING on MS1!

Post by ilovestuffforreal »

I used a 3$ "cp2102 USB to UART / TTL" from eBay. Comes with a little harness, just hooked everything up and used hyper terminal to set the name and baud.
Of course this is after I failed to make a rs232 to TTL converter with the two transistor method.
Works now!
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Re: $7 bluetooth WORKING on MS1!

Post by TPI 85 Blazer »

I'm using the adapter with DB-9s on each end and have successfully set the baud rate to 115200 via hyperterminal. No jumpers were required for this, except the one power wire. It seems the RS232 controller is asserting command mode? I know the baud rate was changed successfully because now hyperterminal only works at 115200. Also, when pairing on BT, it reports the name I gave it "MEGASQUIRT". When connected to the MS, my tablet connects (LED turns solid) to it, but does not see the MS. Shadow dash shows the pairing, but always says "not connected". The MS does talk correctly to a PC on the serial port at 115200, 8 bits, 1 stop, no parity, no flow control. I can't figure out anything else to change. The module reports "linvorV1.8".

I need to have this working by 11-Aug, as I leave on a road trip on the 12th. Any suggestions are welcome and thank you in advance.
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Re: $7 bluetooth WORKING on MS1!

Post by TPI 85 Blazer »

Could the cable be crossing the Tx and Rx? It goes MS-->serial cable-->BT adapter. So the adapter replaced the PC. When setting it up on another PC, the other end of the adapter was used.

I see that the adapter has pins 2 and 3 (Rx/Tx) swapped between the two DB-9 genders. MS uses pin 2 = Rx, pin 3=Rx. PC uses pin 2 = Rx, pin 3 = Tx, so my cable must be crossing them. So if I remove the cable (F-F) and plug directly into the MS, I should have the same connection as now. I see pictures of people plugging them directly into their MS, so this should be correct either way.

This is the adapter:

Image

Image
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Re: $7 bluetooth WORKING on MS1!

Post by TPI 85 Blazer »

I went back and forth between the cable and a direct connection and eventually it started to connect (with direct connection). Very glitchy, but after messing with speed and refresh settings for a while it seems almost useable. What worries me is that Shadow Dash keeps trying to write something and when it was disconnecting so much, the write wouldn't complete. One time the engine stalled! What is it trying to write? If I can't change the tune, why is it writing to my ECU?
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Re: $7 bluetooth WORKING on MS1!

Post by LT401Vette »

If I can't change the tune, why is it writing to my ECU?
With an MS3 it writes to the controller to update the quick runtime table. That cannot cause the engine to stall though, so that is more likely related to the module itself or why it is loosing connection.
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Re: $7 bluetooth WORKING on MS1!

Post by MegasquirtBug »

TPI 85 BLAZER,

I have one of those linvor v1.8 (Hc-06) modules. Before that one I installed a HC-04 with success. When I bought the second one I thought it was the same as the appearance is identical but I was wrong.

First you have to cut the plastic cover protecting the chip and solder two points on the chip to put it in at mode. Also, you have to provide power to it while in at mode. I made a power cable using a USB cable I cut open. Just use red and black.

Once programmed at 115,200 baud, change the name,too and remove the jumper and power adapter. Then just provide the required 5v to the specific pin.

I think I used HTERM to send the commands since I couldn't with hyperterminal. Just copy and paste the command with HTERM.

Google HC-06 for specs for more info.

BTW, both of my $7 adapters work flawlessly. I'll try to finish my writeup on this.

Although this is not the HC-06, this is the steps to follow on the HC-06 with the exception of the solder points which vary on the HC-06. The rest is the same. I'll try to locate the info on the HC-06.
http://www.rx7club.com/megasquirt-forum ... s2-975008/
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Re: $7 bluetooth WORKING on MS1!

Post by TPI 85 Blazer »

I never soldered a jumper and I got the AT commands to work. I think that step is only necessary with the bare BT modules. The larger board with RS232 adapter must pull that pin when commands are set or something. Maybe pairing on BT sets it back into normal mode. Reading through the threads I see other people with the same experience: soldering the jumper wasn't necessary. I had it running connected to the MS today for about an hour, so there is no doubt that it's working. I think only some extended driving will really prove it out. I will do about 1500 miles this week, so that should do it. I did set it up with Hyperterminal, by setting it for auto line feed and doing cut and paste from Notepad.

If you guys say there is no way using this module with Shadow Dash can mess up my tables, I will probably sleep better tonight. I appreciate the responses.
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Re: $7 bluetooth WORKING on MS1!

Post by ErnieJones »

I got a question for you guys - where are you pulling power from for these BlueTooth Modules?

I doing a Microsquirt Module and was going to just tap into the 5V VCC line when I was advised that this was not smart because that line can't handle the draw.

So....how did you folks power your bluetooth modules?
Thanks you;
Ernie
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