99 2RZ MS3pro help please

[fmland2]

Hi,

My setup:

I have a 99' Toyota 2RZ 2.4L w/turbo, stock coil packs(wasted spark), stock 265cc "blue top" injectors hooked up to a MS3pro using the break out board method of connecting to the factory harness. Using a GM 3-bar MAP sensor, GM IAT open element sensor, and stock Toyota CLT sensor as its a royal pain in in the rear to reach in my 86 4runner it resides in. I feel I need to mention that I added the 10K resistor in parallel to the cam sensor as I've read before that it can cause a fail sync issue if not installed. I also used the table generator for VE and AFR I just input the stock engine info as far as redline, hp, torque, and displacement.

The issue:

I went through the initial setup in Tunerstudio and calibrated all sensors and went through all the tabs I thought applied to my specific install. I have apparently overlooked something or made an incorrect assumption in what settings I need. When I try to start it struggles to fire if at all. When it does it's just a quick burp then dead, or it idles up to 2K RPM then tanks. Adding throttle seems to have no affect if not making it harder to start. Would I be right in thinking that it needs more fuel if thats the case?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

[fmland2]

Here are some pictures of how I have it wired to the 2RZ harness and how I made other connections.

[Matt Cramer]

The composite log is a special purpose log file for troubleshooting RPM input problems. It seems to have a noisy cam sensor, but the engine should still start that way. Can you also post a conventional data log of an attempted start?

[fmland2]

The composite log is a special purpose log file for troubleshooting RPM input problems. It seems to have a noisy cam sensor, but the engine should still start that way. Can you also post a conventional data log of an attempted start?

I will do that tonight after work. I'm still learning TS and overlooked the drop down for the different log types.

Thanks for your response

[fmland2]

If anyone notices any issues with my wiring feel free to call me out on any mistakes I made.

One thing I'm hesitant to whether I set it up correctly is the IAC. I know its a PWM, but not quite sure on the settings within TS itself. Here is an image of the settings.

Screen Shot 2016-02-08 at 2.17.51 PM.png

[fmland2]

I finally got it to catch! It was rough, but nice to have the garage smelling like too much fuel again. I could give it throttle to rev it higher than 2K, but it didn't want to stay at a certain rpm. It kept surging.

On a odd side note the IAC and the fuel pump kept running even when I turned the key off "run" any ideas? Both of them stop when I turn the key back "on". How is the fuel pump relay still getting ground if the computer controls it?

Here is the engine log. I can only upload the log of a short single start up attempt as the longer run log file was too big to upload.

Thanks,

Michael

[Matt Cramer]

Make sure neither the fuel pump relay nor the IAC valve are fed power with the key off.

[fmland2]

I must repent for my ignorant sins.... I've been trying to use the wrong data logging feature in TS. Attached is finally the data log that needed to be uploaded in the first place.

I'll dig into the factory wiring harness and see how the power connections look for both the fuel pump and the IAC.

Thanks

[fmland2]

Update: I got the fuel pump wired correctly now so that issue is resolved. My MTX-L wideband LSU 4.2 sensor died from running very rich when I was running the stock ecu with an fmu to keep up with fuel requirements under boost.

With how the settings are now I can get it to run granted badly while cold, but when the engine warms up it will hunt idle between 1400-1600 rpm. I know the fuel table is off by a bit because of the very strong fumes from the exhaust.

Even after running for a few minutes my coil packs are cool to the touch with the going high setting instead of going low as some have it set up on these coil packs. I will be getting my new sensor installed Monday and will hopefully be able to continue making improvements to how it runs.

[Matt Cramer]

With the hot coil pack issue, first make sure they are not getting hot with the key on and engine off. If they are, flip the going high / going low setting. If they aren't, back off the dwell.

[fmland2]

Well Amazon surprised me and delivered everything I needed to continue yesterday. Ok so now that I have an AFR reading again I decided to use the autotune for warmup. I also tweaked a few settings within the Closed-Loop idle settings, but now my idle rpm is still fairly steady around 1700. I played with the settings to try and lower it, but it didn't seem to have any effect at all. What do I need to adjust to bring that down? I would like my idle to be around 750-800.

[Matt Cramer]

What happens if you unplug the IAC valve?

[fmland2]

I made some progress and learned a couple things specific to this engine. During warmup idle is around 1200 and at temp it is now around 850-900, YEA!

The IAC was wired backwards, thus explaining why my warmup idle was low 850-900(where I wanted it after warmup) and why my at temp idle was way too high at 1700. For now I'm running inverted, but I will switch the wiring at some point OCD. A friendly reminder that the output on the MS3pro needs to be wired to the opening coil.

I let the autotune run again during warmup and it definitely helped hold a better AFR. After reaching 163F I switched to the tune analyze and let it tune my new idle and then started to rev chasing the heat map trying to get as much green as possible while parked. Due to our cold weather and still not having my top on the 4Runner I'm not brave enough to take her out on the street yet to continue the rest of the range for the tune analyze. My driveway is quite steep as well, so I have to admit I have a level of fear of being able to get it back into the garage if my setting are too far off.

I checked the temperature of my coils, which live by my intake manifold behind my steering pump and they were at 53F even when the engine was at 170F so I think the going high with a 3.3 cranking dwell, 3.0 nominal dwell, and 1 spark duration seem to be safe.

I have a cam fault on the idiot lights and ran the composite logger to find a TON of noise on the cam input. I'm shocked because its a single tooth on the cam and thought if anything the crank being a 36-2 would be the culprit.