MS3 daughterboard dead?

[billr]

I found the old thread, with the picture of the MS3X DB-37 connector removed and those pads wired to the blue OEM connector. Was something similar done to the mainboard? I'm not trying to be an ass here, your workmanship looks better than mine; but any time you do mods like that you open yourself up to wiring errors that are hard to catch. Since you have had a lot of problems all along (again, referencing the first thread), I suggest checking all you wiring mods very carefully, several times. It's easy enough to accept that the MS3 is bad and get another, but it will be frustrating (if not expensive) if they keep on failing because of something external to them. You might even consider removing all the wiring mods and reinstalling the stock MS connectors; get it running with an "adapter cable" and then put in the custom case. Again, not trying to pick on what you have done, just trying to help you move forward. I just saw your last post. Sometimes when you make a mistake you see it the "right way" (even though it isn't) the second, third, even tenth time you look at it. Sometimes you need to get someone else to check.

[AdamBath]

I'll keep looking at it for sure, however I have gone so far as to pull every soldered pin on the top row up to check for wiring issues, I can't really look much closer than I have There's not a single goop of solder touching anywhere, all wires are very securely attached to their posts, all grounds check out, when it was working properly all the sensors worked, I even proved I have spark, my issue was just the timing of the optical ring by setting up a test rig on my bench 2 or so days ago...

I have thought of replacing the stock connectors and building an adapter harness though, I may pursue that...

[AdamBath]

Haven't heard back from DIYAutoTune yet but I did pick up a pair of male/female DB37 harnesses... Need to find the right angle ones to solder to the mainboard/MS3X, Fry's didn't carry those for some reason... The originals didn't come off in the cleanest manner and got a little bit melty so I'm not going to reuse them, I'll just go new.

[billr]

Thanks for not getting offended by my comments. I doubt you have any shorts/opens in your wiring, the quality looks to good. What I would look for is mis-wiring where a pin isn't connected to the pad you know it is supposed to go to and intended it to go to. One of the advantages to using the stock MS connectors is that units are easier to test, whether sent away for test or by swapping with a known-good unit. You said Fry's, I think of that as being in my local area. Where are you located?

[AdamBath]

Plano, TX. They've got stores in a few states though so it'd be a pretty extraordinary coincidence I think

[AdamBath]

Daughterboard is on the way to DIYAutoTune now...

[AdamBath]

Daughterboard is dead, they're sending a warranty replacement Monday... Also went ahead and just ordered the male and female DB37 ports from them so I can reconnect them to the mainboard and the MS3X. Mouser was much more expensive than they were and harder to figure out which was which. Still planning to order a barometer from Mouser though.

[dll67]

Did the warranty board fix everything?

[AdamBath]

Did the warranty board fix everything?

I never got this running in my Pathfinder, the wiring harness was really clapped out, lots of dead wires, wound up sending it to the boneyard after I discovered rust holes in the floorboard (strategically hidden by carpet).

I still have this MS3X though, and have a 302 V8 that I'm currently building to stuff into an 88 BMW 3 series, going to use the MS3X on it, as well as a Microsquirt to control the 4R70W. So I'll probably be around here for that, just need to start building the engine, got everything back from the machine shop, ready to roll.

[dll67]

Good luck with the build