MS3-Pro Ford 4.6 4v startup issue (solved)

[Bilford]

not in series, in parrallel facing opposite directions, leave the resistor in on the sensor side of the diodes. basically this will be a wire that filters out anything below .7 volts.

Copy that! Thank you!

[ashford]

how did this turn out?

[Bilford]

how did this turn out?

I've been sick for the last three days, so haven't tried it yet. I did buy the diodes already.

[Bilford]

Update:

Sorry for it took so long to update this, but I've had a terrible sinus infection and haven't felt well enough to work on the car for a couple days.

Anyways, in my sickness, I studied the car schematic, ms3pro schematic and decided to go back to square one.

This morning I started by testing the sensor ground wire for earth ground and found that I had continuity to earth. WHAT?! I've tested this before and all was well, but now I have a different result. I went back to the car schematic and traced the wire 359 grey/red stripe that I used for the sensor grounds. I checked everywhere this wire ran with no luck finding the ground to earth. Next I went into the car and traced my sensor ground from the ms3pro. The only place this wire connects is to the coils, the wire 359 for all sensors, and the wideband power commander. I disconnected the coils and this wasn't it. THEN I CHECKED THE STUPID WIDEBAND! Yep,,, that's the culprit. I have had this wideband hooked up for about 8 years and never had any issues other than changing sensors, however, I never had it running to a stand alone ecu. I went on line to find the wideband instructions and checked my power/ground wiring for the wideband. It turns out that this wideband has two grounds, a heater ground, and a digital ground. In the directions it says to hook both up to a "good ground". When I unhooked the digital wire ground from earth ground, my ms3pro stopped seeing earth ground on the sensor ground wire. BINGO.... Next, I hooked up the digital ground wire on the wideband controller to the sensor ground on the ms3pro. This whole thing should not have had me chasing my tail so long, but I'm typically good at wiring and don't second guess myself often. Lesson learned.....keep it simple.

So, now I have the car running pretty good, but it still doesn't want to start up with the alternator plugged in. I've attached a couple logs of the car idling and reving. On the composite log you will see that it has noise at idle, but the signal cleans up as I rev it. So now I just have the noise issue while cranking and at idle. I might end up using a relay to activate the alternator after startup. Any thoughts on this?

(ashford) I did not try the diodes yet man. Do you still think I should try this?

Thanks so much for all the help so far!
Billy

[ashford]

yeah go ahead and try it, it will effectivly make anything below .7 volts dissapear. i would not do it the the crank sensor though, if going for a brute force attack on trying things out also consider grounding the - cam to signal ground as well.

[Bilford]

(update)
I just wanted to update this thread. The car is running great now with no starting issues and I have ZERO issues with this system at all. I've had it to the track twice for test and tunes so far and was able to muster a 10.32 @ 135 with 13lbs of boost. I'm still dialing in the suspension and boost controller, but all is good with the MS3PRO so far.

(As far as the start up issue)
It was noise issues. I installed a 10K ohm resister across the VR sensor's(they came w/ the ms3pro), and re-did some grounds. Also had an issue with the alternator feeding noise while cranking.(very minor) Fixed this by having the MS3pro activate a relay after a certain rpm for the energizing wire on the alternator. "I recently used the filters to help this and I believe this may have fixed the alternator issue. More testing to come on that." The modular stuff can experience stock cam trigger issues because of the timing chain exhibiting slack with low oil pressure cranking or even at idle. I believe this is because you set the trigger angle in the software to a certain number, then if the tooth is advancing or retarding 10-20 degrees while cranking the computer won't sync the tooth angle. Add in a poorly gapped VR sensor and that s*** won't start. Anyhow, below is a list of what I'm using.

Currently using:
E85 fuel
160lb bosch high impedance injectors
Ford flex fuel sensor
Weldon 2035A fuel pump
GM D514a coils
Magnecor wires
BR7EF Plugs gapped at .024 (used an 8 heat range on C16) now on corn
Stock crank position sensor
Stock cam position sensor (air gap .030)
Ebay fuel pressure sensor
Ebay oil pressure sensor

Using features:
Two step launch with trans brake (love this feature and easy to use)
AF ratio safety system (this thing is kick ass)
Flex fuel sensor
Shift light output

I'm probably forgetting something, but you get the picture.
Thanks for the online help guys! Great support team you have here and hope this thread can help another mega squirter with a mod engine.

Billy

[ashford]

i was asked for my msq will post it here