Hall gear tooth sensor requirements

[walterclark1]

I did the V3 board, not the V3.57 but it looks like on your board, in addition to the R57 add, you jumper JP1 pins 2-3 and J1 pins 1-2. This connects the Opto circuit's input to the Tachin and its output to the processor. In addition to that, 2 notes (note 2 and 3 on sheet 3 of the V3.57 schematic) say to jumper across D1 and D2 as they are unnecessary with a 5V referenced Hall sensor.

[cmonref]

WalterClark1 and James: Thanks for the correction. I'm going to have to go back and review my installation of 2 years that is running really well. Maybe I am misremembering how I installed it. Apparently the two resistors in my system result in a bias that is in the acceptable range for the sensor/and board circuitry. Thanks again.

[jsmcortina]

So long as it works... leave it alone !!

James

[cmonref]

Sage advice from James:

So long as it works... leave it alone !!

Oh, yes -- words to live by. But in the nature of DIY and learning, I went back and checked. my setup is a v3.57 board with 1K at R57 which provides bias between VCC (+5v, right?) and the input signal. At the crank, 1K across +12v and Hall signal output. The Hall is a gear sensor looking at a 60-2 crank wheel. This has been running almost 2 years without a hiccup. Just curious -- can this be hurting anything on the v3.57 board? Does this arrangement effectively provide a +7v signal to the tach select circuit?

And ... I will leave it alone unless there is the possibility of damage ...

Brian

[slow_hemi6]

I would try getting rid of the 12V pullup. It will be backfeeding something like 24mW into your 5V supply when the halls not grounding.

[walterclark1]

I can see nothing that would be damaged by leaving it alone.

[dontz125]

I can see nothing that would be damaged by leaving it alone.

Agreed. 24mW will be simply dumped out the D19 Zener to ground without any fuss.

[Madkaw]

As of now-I have both resistors(board and sensor) and rpms are rock steady.

[Madkaw]

Removed external 1K resistor from sensor wiring-RPM's still solid!!!!!!!!

[Madkaw]

Reviving an old thread since it should be relevant to my current issue. First off, please excuse any mistakes I made uploading my tune, but I hope I got it right. I also uploaded a datalog showing what's happening. The pic is of my trigger wheel.

The last post in this thread everything was going good, and then I had engine(mechanical issues-I thought). It was running issues that I thought were not related to my MS, but maybe they were. Anyhow, a year later and rebuilt motor I'm backing running again, but my engine won't go past 4k or so.
I'm running a Cherry Hall gear tooth sensor GS 100502. This set up worked originally, but now the engine completely cuts out and backfires most of the time at around 4K. I have tried every adjustment from the recommended 1.5mm down to a 1/4 turn. The engine runs smooth at anything below this rpm. idle is a bit erratic, but this might be a carb tune issue. I have replaced the sensor with a new one with no effect.

If you read the complete thread there was confusion on the pull up circuit required. I took my ECU to an electronics shop to have the work done because I didn't feel
confident I could do it. As I said before, it ran and tached out fine all the way to 7K. I got brave and opened up the unit yesterday to make sure all the work was done correctly according to the MS instructions. I must say that it still is a bit confusing to me. I know my sensor needs a pull up resistor, because it doesn't come with one built in. So looking in my unit it seemed all jumpers were made. The only questionable thing I saw was the pull up resistor. Not a electronics guy, not sure what the resistor should like , but the one in this unit was really small and had the number 001 on it. I guess I was expecting a peanut shaped resistor with bands of colors, but no such thing. So maybe there isn't a resistor there.

Hoping you can find something wrong with my tune or see something with the logger.
I just found sync loss 2, but have no clue why.

[Madkaw]

A little more background. I have been careful to keep all my sensor wiring away from any power wiring. My sensor wiring runs thru a different hole in my firewall. I am only running a CLT and AIT at the time. The Cherry Hall sensor is running off the TPS 5V wire, but I run no TPS. I used the dedicated sensor ground black/white stripe for the sensors. I attached a pic of my grounding set-up.
The hall sensor uses the ground that is meant for the VR/Hall(white and black in the shield loom) . My question is what to be done with the shielded part? Does this sensor get grounded at all with the black/white sensor ground that is used for the other sensors?

[Madkaw]

Nothing guys?

Well going back to Ole school dizzy and wires I got the car running fantastic. This was especially important since this was a fresh rebuild. Interesting thing happened though, the battery pretty much gave out. Looking at the date of 02/10, I'd say I got my monies worth. Then I started thinking that maybe my battery has been an issue all along. Time to switch back to the MS and see.

[Madkaw]

Well my view tally keeps going up so I won't leave anyone in more suspense. Actually just got around to getting a proper power supply and connectors to connect to my unit. Well I measured across 54 and it was only 1.5 volts. I adjusted the pot until I got it to EXACTLY 2.5 volts.
Drove car and it revs out fine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
[/FIXEDb]

[Madkaw]

Now is there anyone good with triple Mikuni's--LOL