car running for1 year now just dies, looses sync? SOLVED

[Tinkers Toy]

I have been driving this car for about 1 year now occasionally working on the tune and collecting ignition parts for phase two. right now I'm only doing semi sequential fuel on my 1994 Mercedes V12 SL600. I have MS3and MS3X. The ignition is still the old Mercedes setup. A few days ago the car quit while I was driving around. It will restart immediately once the key is cycled off and back on to start. It now runs about a minute or two, sometimes as long as 15 minutes and then just dies. it does not act like it is starving for fuel it just dies. I attached a data log and my MSQ. I will fess up that when I installed the threaded hall sensor from DIYAutotune I got it a little close and rubbed the end of it with the 36-1 harmonic mounted wheel. I reset the sensor and it has worked great for the last year. I'm thinking the issue is with the sensor. Is it common for this sensor to fail in this manner? Cutting out completely and then just dying? anything to test?

TunerStudio MS v2.6.04

[Matt Cramer]

First, see if you can get a tooth log of the cutting out. This will give me a better idea of what's going on.

[Tinkers Toy]

thanks for your help. It took about 10 minutes to warm up and then it died. I started fresh logs and it died about two minutes later. Attached is the tooth log you requested and also attached a fresh data log from that same time.

Thanks again for the assistance.
Bob Z alias Tinkers Toy

additional information, I checked the gap between the sensor and the toothed wheel and it is .500 mm.

[Matt Cramer]

It's starting to pick up noise pulses. I'd make sure the wire is routed away from spark plug wires, coils, the alternator, and similar potential noise sources.

[billr]

Post a picture of the "rubbed" face of the sensor, that will give us a better idea of possible damage. I'm more suspicious of the sensor than wire routing, since it has been working OK for a year. (Assuming wire routing hasn't been changed recently!)

[Tinkers Toy]

I'll see what I can do about the sensor picture. Nothing has changed with the wire routing. the coils on this vehicle are on the left side, the shielded sensor wire runs on the right side and into the car through the right side of the firewall. the distributors and spark plug wires are on the top of the engine no where close to the sensor or wires. The threaded sensor is positioned at the bottom of the crank wheel. The only thing close is the alternator but it is 5 inches away from the shielded sensor wires. the sensor wires eventually lay next to the alternator wires for about 18 inches along the top of the inner fender well in a wiring chase before they go their separate ways. I ordered another sensor but this one will require a new bracket since there are no threaded sensors to be had, I guess the manufacturer is retooling or some nonsense. eventually I'll need one for the cam signal so if I get this cured it won't go to waste. I'll try and separate the wires some more. any other ideas are appreciated. I have about 2000 miles on this setup so far without issues until now. On the bright side at least it did not leave me stranded on the side of the road.

[Tinkers Toy]

I think it's fixed, I replaced the crank sensor and it has been running fine for over 20 minutes. I have a short road trip planned for Friday, that will be the real test.

[Tinkers Toy]

problem solved. car is running great for the last 250 miles. It was the hall sensor at the crank toothed wheel. thanks for the help.