MS3 pro EZ30 Subaru swap sync loss

[jsmcortina]

Sounds like your battery voltage corrections are off (they aren't always easy to get right.)

Retune your idle area of the VE table now that the alternator is working. Take a note of how much you have changed it by and you can later go back and re-adjust the battery voltage correction at the 11V area where you were before.

James

[kamotors]

I've been messing with the map but I cant get it to come even close to idling, I messed with the battery dwell table but nothing seemed to improve the issue.

would I need to increase or decrease the battery dwell correction table?
8V: 222%
9V: 184%
10V: 157%
11V: 137%
12V: 122%
13V: 110%
14V: 100%
15V: 92%
16V: 85%

[jsmcortina]

Not dwell - I was thinking of injector dead time.

James

[kamotors]

I've gone from 1.200msto 1.00ms to .9ms and it didnt idle at any level or show improvement.

[jsmcortina]

What size of changes have you made to the fuel VE table around idle while trying to resolve this? You may (perhaps) need to double the numbers.

James

[kamotors]

SO with the recent cold weather I haven't been able to get the car to run even. it will crank, pop to around 5-600 rpms and then die out everytime.throttel position doesnt change anything, I've been messing with cold advance, ASE and WUE. I've gone to both extremes on all the maps and cant get the car started, if I mess with it enough I did get the car to run but it took around 30minutes of messing with it and by that time the coolant temp had risen and the car wasnt really cold anymore. same settings wont start the car cold again the next day.

I've messed with the required fuel,tried batch fire during crank but nothing seems to work on cold start.

any tips on cold start tuning for a stubborn car? my turbo E30 + E30's i've built running MS2 will start up first or second try everytime even when very cold.

[jsmcortina]

Best to post your current MSQ and a datalog of that behaviour.

James

[kamotors]

ok here are a few datalogs of the no start

[kamotors]

here is with ASE up

[kamotors]

with cranking rpm increased (seemed to help actually)

I believe I may of been changing things like fuel also during this but the first few cranks are all with only 550crank setting changed from teh previous datalog

[kamotors]

I think its actually flooding, I saw a small puddle of what smell like l fuel underneath one of the mufflers. I lowered ASE and WUE as well as took some fuel out of the map, but going to have to wait until tomorrow as it seems to flooded to start.

my required fuel was at 13.3 and I use the calculator which lowered it to 12.9 so maybe that will help, but I wont know until tomorrow.

[kamotors]

ok so the problem the whole time was the stupid little black wire that comes off of the alternator I had it wired to the fuse box as that triggered it to charge the battery but with it wired car wouldnt idle, and evidently cant cold start either. I took out its fuse and it was magically fixed, I wired up AVCS and AVLS and its pretty quick now.

here is a quick video, notice how the TPS value increases with RPM? What would cause this I cant even get a reading to the TPS, its as if the TPS is getting a MAP reading or something.
http://youtu.be/IHQ9rz6byeY

[slow_hemi6]

Have you calibrated the TPS in the tools menu?

[kamotors]

the TPS on gets a reading with the car running for some reason, so it cant be calibrated unless its revved up and then it gets a confused reading.

[dontz125]

the TPS on gets a reading with the car running for some reason, so it cant be calibrated unless its revved up and then it gets a confused reading.

Then something is definitely wrong - you should be calibrating the TPS with the engine off. Trace your TPS wires, make sure they're all going to the right pins!