Splicing/fan-out in a wiring harness

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Healey3000
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Splicing/fan-out in a wiring harness

Post by Healey3000 »

Hi,

There are times in a harness configuration when one has to fan out a single conductor into multiple wires, to feed separate devices (fan-out). Is there a device available that facilitates this or do you typically just do one split at a time, branch by branch, to create the fan-out?

If the latter, do you simply overlap solder and heat shrink or use some kind of crimped splitter?

Thanks.
dontz125
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Re: Splicing/fan-out in a wiring harness

Post by dontz125 »

There are multi-strand connectors, but they are large, clumsy, and not particularly sorted for automotive service - OR are ridiculously expensive. (Think fancy murettes)

The multi-coloured plastic-sleeved "insulated" splices CAN be made to work, but take careful effort to make them water-tight due to the flared ends of the sleeves.

I've found that using a female 1/4" spade-type open-barrel connector, with the actual socket clipped off, does an excellent job as a two-wire splice connector for 18- and 20-ga wire, gripping both the wire and insulation. A 1" length of double-walled (glue-lined) heat-shrink tubing completely covers the joint, and is fully water-tight.

Heat-shrink solder sleeves are more expensive and require careful set-up (a jig becomes practical for multiple joints), but do the heat-shrink and solder in a single operation.
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Healey3000
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Posts: 201
Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 3:41 pm

Re: Splicing/fan-out in a wiring harness

Post by Healey3000 »

dontz125 wrote:There are multi-strand connectors, but they are large, clumsy, and not particularly sorted for automotive service - OR are ridiculously expensive. (Think fancy murettes)

The multi-coloured plastic-sleeved "insulated" splices CAN be made to work, but take careful effort to make them water-tight due to the flared ends of the sleeves.

I've found that using a female 1/4" spade-type open-barrel connector, with the actual socket clipped off, does an excellent job as a two-wire splice connector for 18- and 20-ga wire, gripping both the wire and insulation. A 1" length of double-walled (glue-lined) heat-shrink tubing completely covers the joint, and is fully water-tight.

Heat-shrink solder sleeves are more expensive and require careful set-up (a jig becomes practical for multiple joints), but do the heat-shrink and solder in a single operation.
Hi,

The challenge is trying to get five to six wires in a single connection.

I just came upon something called a Splice Saver, made by Delphi. These are from the GT150 family of connectors and come with a shorting cap that snaps on to the end of the female connector. If one is using the GT series in a harness anyway (I'll be using a mix of GT150 and Metripack280) then this is an excellent option. There are some configuration options in the splice caps. Best to download Delphi's DCS_GlobalCatalog-3579 as it has a wealth of information on just what is out there. The pleasant surprise for me is that the Delphi products are very reasonably priced. To those who say that these are not in the same league as many of the motorsports connectors, my response is "if it's good enough for GM, it's good enough for my non-tracked car".

A couple of links to the Splice Savers: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Del ... XZS53vE%3d and http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Del ... RUxuPIs%3d
dontz125
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Re: Splicing/fan-out in a wiring harness

Post by dontz125 »

Now THAT is an interesting piece of kit - thanks for sharing!
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Healey3000
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Joined: Sun Mar 16, 2014 3:41 pm

Re: Splicing/fan-out in a wiring harness

Post by Healey3000 »

dontz125 wrote:Now THAT is an interesting piece of kit - thanks for sharing!
You're most welcome. That Delphi catalog is truly a treasure-trove of goodies. Between the umpteen configurations and current carrying capacities, there are also universal crimpers (inexpensive) available to handle the terminals. I have also found that pin for pin and performance for performance, the Delphi offerings handily beat almost anything else, at least on paper.

They may not have the cachet of the famous names, or appear as "sexy" but as I said, if they work in the real world, how can we argue with that? BTW, they also have fuse/relay modules that are impressively inexpensive.

Now, I just have to find some nice shielded panel mount connectors that can be used to connect the CKP, CMP and knock sensors directly. No gaps in the shield and individual power and ground feeds. Those M8/M12 types look promising but they are a tad pricey.
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