1.5jz ms3x need help getting clear VR sync

[billr]

With a VR sensor "signal" and "ground" don't have too much meaning, as you will swap them to get the correct polarity for best operation. Are both those VR coil leads floating from the shield and sensor body? What is the resistance between those two wires? I'm asking all this just to be sure I understand what you have there, my "gut feeling" is that crank wheel, being both small diameter and kind of saw-toothed, is going to be tricky to set the pots for.

[MaloneyADHDcray]

With a VR sensor "signal" and "ground" don't have too much meaning, as you will swap them to get the correct polarity for best operation. Are both those VR coil leads floating from the shield and sensor body? What is the resistance between those two wires? I'm asking all this just to be sure I understand what you have there, my "gut feeling" is that crank wheel, being both small diameter and kind of saw-toothed, is going to be tricky to set the pots for.

Ok is switching from falling edge to rising edge the same thing as swapping the wires around (polarity) then?

resistance was 1800 on the crank and 1600 on the cam. but that was from the sensor terminals when I checked to see if they needed to be replaced. both are in spec.

would you like me too take the resistance of the wires at the MS connector?

the crank sensor has roughly 4 inches of bare wire from the MS connector to the shielded wiring. the Cam sensor has roughly 3 feet from the MS connector to the shielded wiring.

[billr]

It is intuitive that swapping from rising to falling in TS would take care of it, but my recollection is that the physical wires have to be swapped. The last I looked at it was a couple of years ago, but that was with a scope, and my recollection is that a certain wire config worked best, regardless of what I did in TS. Help here, from somebody who knows for sure?

[TerrenceLP]

Hello, first not having a timing light and a fixed ignition setting is bad. You must get factory timing dead on in fixed mode before doing anything. Next are you using factory harness and splicing in or totally new wire harness? I would recommend building a custom harness reusing factory connectors, this eliminates buggy 20+ year old wire. Now go start from there and try again.

Even having 4 coils wired up wrong my 7m still ran! Get factory timing dead on first.

[MaloneyADHDcray]

Hey i have made some progress today. finally got a chance to work on the car.

with the car running it seems its misfiring at low RPM and throwing it out of sync.

when i hold the throttle above 2500 there are no sync loss issues. the engine is running rough though. but yeah if i try to let it idle it losses sync. looking at the seq PW 1-6 on the logs you see all the injectors are getting signal.

unfortunately I ran out of day light today.

I confirmed all the coils are firing but I am skeptical as to if the coil is grabbing the plugs.

Here are some datalogs if anyone wants take a look and share there thoughts.

thank you

[phoenix3d]

Hi there...

Too ask a silly question...

What Plugs are you running?.. I hope they are Resistor Plugs?...

Cheers?..

PS.. I've Never had this much of an issue on a JZ.... Ever...

[MaloneyADHDcray]

Hi there...

Too ask a silly question...

What Plugs are you running?.. I hope they are Resistor Plugs?...

Cheers?..

PS.. I've Never had this much of an issue on a JZ.... Ever...

well a lot of it is me learning the hard way. the DIY way lol.

I am using 1ZZ coil packs from a toyota yaris and I have NDK copper plugs in. never had a problem with these plugs in the past.

It could be a simple as fouled plugs. I added a lot of fuel thinking thats why it wasnt starting. then i pushed on the coil packs and it started up but is misfiring. so it could be fouled plugs. and it could also be bad contact to the coils.
thats what I seem to think the issue is. If you have another idea please share!
here are some more logs of the same thing basically

[MaloneyADHDcray]

the springs inside of the coils need to be grabbing the top of the spark plug to fire correctly, correct?

[nathaninwa]

There should be proper conpression of that spring. Take a cool off and cut something the free length of the spring and reinstall coil and compare how much higher it is to the other installed ones

[nathaninwa]

I haven't read the whole thread, but have you tried any 1k or 10k resistors inline with vr+?

[MaloneyADHDcray]

I haven't read the whole thread, but have you tried any 1k or 10k resistors inline with vr+?

I was going to try that but I decided to just run new shielded wire for the crank sensor.

I do not think I have a sync issue anymore... I'll figure it out and post the results and close this thread.

[uzx81]

Hello,

I'm having a bit of trouble understanding how to get my crank VR sensor sync'd correctly.

Toyota 1jzgte head with 2jzgte bottom end.
using:
factory 12 - 1 crank wheel, factory crank position sensor
factory rear camshaft position sensor.
1zz coil packs

originally i followed the settings posted here
http://jzxproject.com/bbs/index.php?showtopic=8307 in these settings the user set the crank and cam input to falling edge
using these settings and following the manual and ALOT of fiddling with the pot adjusters (roughly 4 turns counter clockwise on the trigger and 5 turns clockwise on hysteria) I was able to get a good clean crank signal according to the tooth logger while cranking. however when I tried to get a good composite log while cranking it showed a lot of sync errors. frustrated and confused i then reached out to someone over facebook from the 1jzgte group. He informed me that when wired correctly the settings are supposed to be set on rising edge and anyone who used falling edge has the wiring backwards.

out of ideas and confident that I could figure out the settings with his help I agreed to set both cam and crank to rising edge.
so i backed the pots out all the way counter clockwise (6 turns) and started over with the settings set on rising edge and assured my wiring was correct. with both crank VR pots turn just one turn clockwise i was able to get a clean composite log while cranking the engine over. however the tooth logger made absolutely no sense to me when i logged it. the manual states it supposed to show a small bar for the normal teeth and then a large bar for the missing tooth. and under these new rising edge settings my log was not at all showing this.

because the composite log looked good during cranking i decided to go ahead and start the engine and log the event. The engine runs but does not idle and rpms go up and down and up and down. after viewing the composite log while running it seems to be going in and out of sync.

after turning both trigger and hysteria pots in one more turn counter clockwise (so both pots in two turns total) i saw little change and decided its time to make this thread.

my questions:
why is the toot logger so wrong looking?
am i supposed to be mainly looking at the composite logger or is the tooth logger completely necessary?
how do i move forward from here?

toothlog2turnsin = cranking tooth logger log

compositelog2turnsin = cranking composite logger log

yeah.csv = composite logger log while engine was running

newest = megalogviewer of the engine running

I had the same problem. It ended up being that the cam and crank signal was overlapping. I had to adjust the intake cam gear a degree to get it to clean up and rev out. I thought it was a problem with noise or the pots on the cam signal.

[MaloneyADHDcray]

Hello,

I'm having a bit of trouble understanding how to get my crank VR sensor sync'd correctly.

Toyota 1jzgte head with 2jzgte bottom end.
using:
factory 12 - 1 crank wheel, factory crank position sensor
factory rear camshaft position sensor.
1zz coil packs

originally i followed the settings posted here
http://jzxproject.com/bbs/index.php?showtopic=8307 in these settings the user set the crank and cam input to falling edge
using these settings and following the manual and ALOT of fiddling with the pot adjusters (roughly 4 turns counter clockwise on the trigger and 5 turns clockwise on hysteria) I was able to get a good clean crank signal according to the tooth logger while cranking. however when I tried to get a good composite log while cranking it showed a lot of sync errors. frustrated and confused i then reached out to someone over facebook from the 1jzgte group. He informed me that when wired correctly the settings are supposed to be set on rising edge and anyone who used falling edge has the wiring backwards.

out of ideas and confident that I could figure out the settings with his help I agreed to set both cam and crank to rising edge.
so i backed the pots out all the way counter clockwise (6 turns) and started over with the settings set on rising edge and assured my wiring was correct. with both crank VR pots turn just one turn clockwise i was able to get a clean composite log while cranking the engine over. however the tooth logger made absolutely no sense to me when i logged it. the manual states it supposed to show a small bar for the normal teeth and then a large bar for the missing tooth. and under these new rising edge settings my log was not at all showing this.

because the composite log looked good during cranking i decided to go ahead and start the engine and log the event. The engine runs but does not idle and rpms go up and down and up and down. after viewing the composite log while running it seems to be going in and out of sync.

after turning both trigger and hysteria pots in one more turn counter clockwise (so both pots in two turns total) i saw little change and decided its time to make this thread.

my questions:
why is the toot logger so wrong looking?
am i supposed to be mainly looking at the composite logger or is the tooth logger completely necessary?
how do i move forward from here?

toothlog2turnsin = cranking tooth logger log

compositelog2turnsin = cranking composite logger log

yeah.csv = composite logger log while engine was running

newest = megalogviewer of the engine running

I had the same problem. It ended up being that the cam and crank signal was overlapping. I had to adjust the intake cam gear a degree to get it to clean up and rev out. I thought it was a problem with noise or the pots on the cam signal.

so I now have LS2 coils. and I made an entire new harness. it seems closer but now it still wont start. I will be messing with it all day today. Please see these logs!

I do not have adjustable cam gears so I cant even adjust it if that is the problem.

But i have heard someone say that before... I just didnt believe it.

can you see anything from these logs?

[MaloneyADHDcray]

ok everyone thank you very much for helping out. I finally got it figured out and the car is running better than ever.

so i dont leave another unfinished dead end thread i will share what i had to do.

first off i used this pinout http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/4721 ... e%20Wiring

The CRANK position sensor pins on this translation are backwards IF you are trying to run falling edge falling edge.
the CAM is ok.

The reason i wanted to run falling edge falling edge is because it is more reliable. the VR sensors create a voltage on the rising edge. where as the falling edge is just a drop back down off of voltage. making it easier too adjust for and more consistent. (i read this from a EFI university thread)


originally i tried to leave the stock ECU in place and used the stock wiring harness. also I was running 1zz smart coils. I followed a pinout that said the ground reference was not needed and you do not need to ground it. I followed that information and well... i believe it wasted my coils.
I then purchased LS2 coils and wired as instructed by MS manual and used the dwell settings they provide.
I also pulled my harness and completely made a new wiring harness. made a new ground for the crank sensor shield wire. because the fatory ground to the engine is not so great. (to me the manual was unclear weather or not the crank shield needed to be grounded to the engine block as well as the pin on the MS. because the cam is just grounded to the engine block not the ecu. so i just added a ground for the crank shield wire. )

I am using airtex ls2 coils i bought from rockauto for $10 a piece!! i like trying budget routes. so dont hate.

car is running better than ever.

I had to turn the crank trigger pot roughly 1.5 turns clockwise. and the hestarity one half turn.

The cam needed NO turns on the trigger and 0.75 roughly turns on the hestarity.

stock cam gears. using rear cam sensor. falling edge falling edge. and shes running great.

good luck to all who go DIY!! its been a learning experience and will continue to be always!