LS1 Trigger problem

[.boB]

I'm using V3.57 MS-Extra built by DIY to run a stock LS1. I'v connected all of the stock LS1 sensors according to the generic wiring diagram on pages 17, and 19. Except that the crank and cam sensors get 12v; as instructed on page 77. I set up J1, JP1, R52, and R56 as instructed on page 75.

When I crank the engine, I get a rpm signal, showing about 135 rpm's. The composite logger shows no cam or crank signal. How can I get an RPM reading without a cam or crank signal?

[grom_e30]

can you post the log files and msq

[jsmcortina]

Clearly you can't. Maybe something is going weird in TunerStudio?

James

[.boB]

Yeah, there's really nothing to log. No trigger signal at all from the crank or cam sensor. But how is it picking up a tach signal?

[billr]

Why are you convinced there is no crank or cam signal, are you using a scope to check those inputs to the MS? The fact that they don't show up on logs may mean you are not doing the logging correctly. Posting the MSQ and MSL files can't hurt, and may help us help you.

[.boB]

Hopefully, I have attached 3 files: MSQ, data log during cranking, and composite log during cranking.

I made a couple of small changes to the MSQ, and now I get a trigger signal, both crank and cam. Whether it had something to do the change or (as said above) there was a loose nut on the keyboard, IDK. In any case, it now seems to have a crank and cam signal.

Looking at the composite logger, it does NOT look correct. But I can't find a sample of what they should look like.

Also, the tach signal is only reading 135 rpm's. Listening to the engine crank over, I think it's higher than that.

I get a fuel pulse, and fuel is injected into the cylinder. But, there's still no spark.

Tonight, I'm going to use the Tuner Studio manual and go through every section carefully to make sure I didn't miss anything.

[Matt Cramer]

OK, here's what I see going on in the files.

MSQ:

No obvious weirdness there.

Composite log:

It looks like it's taking just over one engine revolution to sync up, then maintains a good sync. OK, you're good to go there.

Regular data log:

MAP sensor reading is suspect. It starts at 81 kPa, does not match the baro sensor, and does not move. Recalibrate the MAP sensor, and check its plumbing.

Confirm coolant and IAT readings are correct.

This is fairly typical cranking RPM if the spark isn't working and it is purely on the starter motor. I see no reason to suspect your RPM reading is off.

Other than that:

Check spark output in output test mode and confirm it works.

[.boB]

Thanx, Matt. I'll work on those this week end, and see what happens.

[jsmcortina]

Please read tge Quickstart Guide in the manual, it covers most of the points Matt raised.

James

[.boB]

Success! Thanx once again. Mostly. So I went through the injector and spark test procedures, and found 2 things:

- Rookie mistake in the coil wiring. Easily fixed. And explains why no spark.

- #1 injector sounds different than the others. #1 clicks, the others buzz. If I move the injector plug to #3, then #3 clicks and the others buzz. Is that normal?

I started the engine, and it runs! Not very well, but it runs. For the moment, it's on speed density. Once I get it running, I'd like to change it over to MAF
- MAT isn't right. It's close, but not right. I'm using a 5 wire blade type MAF, that includes the MAT sensor.
- Oil pressure sensor isn't quite right, either. Close, though, to my mechanical gauge.
- wandering idle, and doesn't respond to the throttle very well. runs rough. too rich? I'll work on that.

but, It runs!

[Ollie8974]

- #1 injector sounds different than the others. #1 clicks, the others buzz. If I move the injector plug to #3, then #3 clicks and the others buzz. Is that normal?

No, that is not normal they should all buzz, check for loose or shorted wire, check the contact pin in the plug.
Use an OHM meter to check for shorted wire.
Physically inspect the wire harness for any broken wires or chafed insulation.
When it is running shake or jiggle the plug and wiring,to detect any change in the sound.
I would not worry about the wandering idle until the injector problem is fixed.
At least you got it running.

[.boB]

All fixed, all running as it should! Few small errors on my part, easily fixed. Now all I have to do is get it tuned and adjusted, and we'll be good to go. Easier than I thought it would be.