Alternator Control LSx application MS3 "Gold box"

[kingtal0n]

Wired pin 12 "alt field" from ECU to alternator field wire and set the software the way it says to in the manual... and alternator will not charge. The target voltage reads right but its like I am on the wrong input pin. Open-loop duty, JS11, 225Hz

I took the field wire through a 12v halogen bulb to 12v and got it to charge 13.8v so I know the alt is good.

[jsmcortina]

What type of alternator, what version Gold Box and...

[kingtal0n]

hey thanks, I will have that info in another day~ when I get back to the car

[kingtal0n]

Here is the cal file and a couple logs. I have some long logs (12mb) of dyno runs but they dont fit. Want me to email them?

I have found a couple issues besides the alternator, I need help with also. Ill post some pics

[kingtal0n]

One of the strange issues is this. Its really two issues I think they are connected.

1. Out of the blue, seem at random, the Target idle rpm will skyrocket to some number, usually 1600-1800rpm. the rpm will follow and sometimes it will surge like this for a while then suddenly stop. I don't have any target idle rpm set that high anywhere; I am not sure where it is getting that.

2. When I touch the throttle even just a tiny bit, the RPM will also go really high for some period. If you check my tune file you see I made several corrections in attempt to remedy this, such as slowing the idle valve and removing the dash pot (set to 0). Nothing seems to help.

Also notice that, even though the idle stepper seems to open ALOT, the RPM still continues to fall. I wonder if it is working correctly (its brand new) might be bad?

3. Also, when viewing log files, the little map on the right doesnt follow the RPM. In other words, the little box just sits on 7000rpm no matter what the true rpm of the engine is. So I cant play back my log files appropriately to see where on the map it was following.

[kingtal0n]

So here are some screen shots of the idle target problem, and another issue.

The other issue is the last picture, suddenly the rpm went crazy (50,000+ rpm) and the engine dies.

[kingtal0n]

I figured out I could zip the files to upload the data logs. You can view my logs below, have some idle time, hot starts, and dyno passes

[kingtal0n]

here are pics of the alternator and Idle control valve for reference

I wired the L terminal to the 12V bulb for now so I could dyno the car with the 13.8~volts, kinda put the alternator on the back burner with all the idle issues this engine is having.

[jsmcortina]

Best to start a different topic for your idle questions. Idle tuning issues aren't specific to the Gold Box.

How many wires on the plug to the alternator? 2 or 4 ?

James

[kingtal0n]

It has 4-pins, but only 3 wires I think.

[jsmcortina]

The 4-pin has limited ECU control anyway, so nothing wrong with the lamp to L. The best the ECU can do is delay turn-on a little by keeping the L terminal grounded. If you leave the lamp in the circuit and connect ALT-FIELD to L as well, you should be able to control that delay. From memory I think you need "inverted " output.

James

[kingtal0n]

Oh thanks. So if I want to control the Alternator what kind of alt do I need? A 3-wire?

And what does the monitor input wire do? I was under the impression it isn't needed. but I see alot of options for it in the MS ecu.

[jsmcortina]

Oh thanks. So if I want to control the Alternator what kind of alt do I need? A 3-wire?

And what does the monitor input wire do? I was under the impression it isn't needed. but I see alot of options for it in the MS ecu.

I'm not aware of a three wire. I've seen four and two wire.

The later 2-wire allows full voltage control.

On either of them, the Field/Monitor signal from the alternator can be used to monitor the load on the alternator. (i.e. how hard it is working.)

James

[kingtal0n]

the diagram *attach* shows 3 wires coming off the alternator. How would I wire this with just 2-wires? Split the field wire into 2?