Volvo 2.3 "Not RPM Synced"

[Keystone244]

Hey guys,

First of all, I'd like to thank you guys for the information found on this site. I've used it regularly for trouble shooting different MS applications. Currently I'm working on my dads 1992 Volvo. I bought the MS3 v3.0 unassembled board and put it together for him, and he purchased the MS3x card for it. All sensors are reading on the dashboard, except we have no spark. We're receiving a "Not RPM Synced" error. Pulled the plug wires and sure enough there is no spark off the coils. I do, in fact, have all components wired to a fuse that has 12v in both the "on" and "cranking" positions of the ignition cylinder. Below is the setup.

Setup:
1992 Volvo 240
2.3l
LS coils
DSM CAS with Yoshifab hi-res wheel. Link: https://yoshifab.com/store/high-resolut ... -disk.html

MS Wiring:
Jumpered TachSelect to VRIN
Jumpered TSEL to VROUT
JP7 jumper in place on MS3x card
1k resistor wired between 5v hole above the Proto area and TachSelect
Cam input from CAS going to the MS3x Cam input
Crank input from CAS going to the MS3 white wire in shielded pair. Black wire and shield are both cut and taped up, not in use)
Both R52 and R56 are counter-clockwise. (I turned them about 12 turns that way. Should be all the way down.)

I DO NOT have the following jumpered:
XG1 to XG2
OPTOIN to TACHSELECT
TSEL to OUTOOUT

I verified that the crank and cam wiring is going to the correct pins on the DB37 connectors for both the MS3 and the MS3X card.

Attached are the following files:
.msq
Composite log of attempting to start (Injectors have fuse pulled to keep from flooding. As does the fuel pump.)
Datalog of attempting to start.

Any and all help is much appreciated. I'm not sure what else to try. Willing to send money to whoever helps get spark working, haha. It's boost season and he needs 25psi in his life ;)

[Matt Cramer]

Do you have a pull up on the CKP input?

[Keystone244]

Do you have a pull up on the CKP input?

Isn't the pullup for this the 1k resistor in-line from the 5v hole above the proto area to the TachSelect wire?

[Matt Cramer]

Yes. In that case you may need to adjust the VR trim pots.

[Keystone244]

Yes. In that case you may need to adjust the VR trim pots.

Ok, and to do this, do I want to slowly turn R52 or R56 clockwise? Do I do this while cranking, or turn it a half turn, try cranking, rinse and repeat until I see a tach signal come through in TunerStudio?

[Keystone244]

Alrighty, so I bought a JimStim 1.5 v2.0.4. I'm not sure what dip switches should be up, though, since I'm using the trigger wheel listed in my original post. The stim is working with everything else, though. Any other thoughts, opinions?

[CRSTune]

The closest one I'd use is the 12-1 setting. You'll have to change the configuration to dual wheel, 12 teeth at crank speed to test that. This will at least let you know that the circuits work.

[Keystone244]

The closest one I'd use is the 12-1 setting. You'll have to change the configuration to dual wheel, 12 teeth at crank speed to test that. This will at least let you know that the circuits work.

Thanks, bud! I'll try this tonight after work! I'll report back my findings. If that doesn't work, I'll also try the standard pin 3 in the "on" position and put it back to batch fire. Just to see if the VR circuit is happy.

[240Kyle]

Hi Keystone,

I just finished my 1991 Volvo 240 using ms3x and the yoshifab cas adapter. Where are you getting power for the CAS? There are only a couple places that you can get power while cranking on this car.

Kyle