5.2L Magnum MS3/MS3x

[JCashen]

Here is the msq, I tried changing to reduce fueling through the tables, ASE, WUE, and cranking plusewidth but I do agree it seems like way to much fuel. Honestly though I have like a 5% idea of what I'm doing and mostly winging it trying to figure it out.

[billr]

Is it really 10F where you are working on this? That's where the big cranking pulse is coming from. I would still try stopping the fuel and trying to get a fire with starting-fluid. Are your injectors really 180cc/min? Those will limit rpm to under 5000 rpm at WOT.

[JCashen]

It was in the 40s today I'm not sure what to adjust for the MAT sensor. I calibrated the TPS, the MAP (not 100% sure), not sure if I need to change anything for the O2 sensor, probably need to adjust the coolant temp sensor.

I'll try have our suggestion and post back with results.

[billr]

There are quite a few "standard" CLT/MAT sensor types listed in the TunerStudio "tool" tab; are you not using one of those? If so, post the P/N or application of what your are using; somebody may have the values already. Worst case: you have to measure resistance with a meter at a few different temperatures.

[93supercoupe]

Couple things i noticed in just the tune-

It looks like its a turbo tune? If so, change the timing and fuel index's to be more reasonable in boost. Right now they have 100KPA increments.

Also, the REQ fuel says it has 17lb injectors- just confirm that is correct.

Cranking pulse and the VE look ok to start.

The first tooth angle is set to 350 when you mentioned it was synced at 318. Just pointing it out.

If your concerned about getting it to sync for sequential/COP, get it running on wasted spark and batch fire and then bring in the full seq/COP

[93supercoupe]

Just looked at your log-

you def need to fix your temp readings

and the VE doesnt move off 100 even though its getting a reasonable map reading.

Also, PW goes straight to 65ms

[JCashen]

I fixed the CLT/MAT readings. I tried cranking it with the timing set to fixed timing 0 with crank timing 0 then I tried it with 10 degrees and still get gurgles and sounds like air out the intake. I'm not sure about the tune tables, this was how it was when I first started on tunerstudio.

This engine is naturally aspirated. For the injectors I changed it to 18.2, forums say 94 Ram (IIRC the injectors and fuel rail are off a 94 with fuel pressure regulated on the rail) are 18.2 but the engine is a 96 Ram and they had 23.2# injectors. I have no idea about injector CC, dead time or all that advanced stuff.

[93supercoupe]

maybe someone can come in and touch base on the 65ms PW and 100%VE because that is not right

[Matt Cramer]

Have you confirmed timing is correct with a timing light?

[JCashen]

yes, 318 tooth angle with fixed timing at 0 and cranking timing at 0 has the timing mark line up with the TDC mark on the engine. The engine still backfires through the intake. I've tried going 360 off but no luck, could I be 180 out somehow?

[JCashen]

Is it really 10F where you are working on this? That's where the big cranking pulse is coming from. I would still try stopping the fuel and trying to get a fire with starting-fluid. Are your injectors really 180cc/min? Those will limit rpm to under 5000 rpm at WOT.

I tried with injectors off, spraying starting fluid in the intake. It backfire through intake catching it on fire.

[billr]

Check spark timing on all cylinders. Are you using a simple timing -light, or one of those "dial-back" things?

I gotta ask... have you checked compression lately? It would be a shame if we chased "high tech" problems only to find the cam timing was bad.

Backfiring into the intake pretty much has to be spark timing too advance, so that the engine "kicks back" into the intake stroke (and your cranking advance is a very peaceful 0), or an intake valve ain't closed when it is supposed to be.

[JCashen]

I have the simple timing light that attached to a spark plug wire. To check timing on all cylinders do I just put the timing light on the cylinders spark plug wire and it should pulse at TDC if that is where I have it set?

The vehicle sat for like a year and half while I was in Okinawa, then I came back on leave in July and she fired right up and ran. Went back to Okinawa until I came back in late November which we had to drive it onto the trailer and off into the garage.

How does checking compression tell me if the cam timing is bad? Should I try rotating my distributor 180 degrees?

[billr]

If the valve/cam stuff hasn't been touched since it last ran, then there is little chance a valve is now burned or timing has slipped. Ignore that for now, although it never hurts to know compression is OK. Weird things do happen...

Yes, you put the timing light on each plug wire, but they don't all flash at (0 TDC). If timing should be 0, then two flash at 0, two at 90, two at 180, and two at 270. You need to three additional marks at every 90 degrees. These do not need to be accurate, just a piece of tape on the dampener will do. I just want to be sure there is no gross spark miswiring.

Flashing should be like this, based on the 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 in your MSQ:

1 & 6 => 0 (#1 TDC)
8 & 5 => 270 Before #1 TDC
4 & 7 => 180 (#1 BDC
3 & 2 => 90 Before #1 TDC

[JCashen]

Maybe I'm doing it entirely wrong but I see the timing mark at TDC for all cylinders. My harmonic balancer has 4 notches on it 1 full notches and 3 half notches. Should I only be focused on the full notch?

[billr]

Sorry, I got called away while editing that last one, you probably didn't get a chance to see it...

[JCashen]

I went to semi seq and wasted cop and it will run for like 15 seconds but it has no throttle but I had to move my tooth angle from 318 to 355. Anyway to go from here?

[billr]

Has the MSQ changed any from the last one posted? If so, post the current.

[JCashen]

This is the current MSQ that it will fire up on for like 10-15 seconds max

[billr]

First step: lower the cranking threshold from the present 700 rpm to something realistic, like 250 rpm. It's never getting out of "cranking" to use the tables, ASE, or WUE. WUE looks kind of lean, but let's see what happens once you start using it...