jsmcortina wrote:
The green line is the "cam" input and should be a lot of tiny spikes packed closely together on an RB motor. The blue line represents "crank" and should be a much slower square wave signal.
In that case I think I still have it wired correctly. As I mentioned my plug itself for the Cas has started to crack and break. The clips that hold pressure onto the pins to make contact has completely broken off.
After that last composite log I posted I tried switching pins again and I literally received nothing in the composite log. After switching them back I get that weak cam signal again. I believe my signal looks the way that it does due to the pin not making full contact and causing a loss of signal. We'll know for sure once I can rule my cracking plug out of the equation.
Plug will be here on Monday so as soon as I get it I'll wire it up and see where we stand. Thanks everyone for the continuing help! Hope you all have a good weekend!
I have never liked the quality of plastic that Nissan used. The brown plugs that are used in the coil packs and the CAS just fall apart.
I have been driving on my RB25 for a while now. Make sure you have the pull up voltages at the 1 degree and 120 degree pins on the CAS plug and proper ground and source voltage. I used 5v and a 370ohm resistor like in the DIY instructions, but that was many years ago.
Nissan Skyline R34 RB26DETT ran MS3/MS3X w/ factory Hitachi CAS (sold)
Nissan Silvia S14 RB25DE ITB/NA ran MS3/MS3X w/ factory Mitsubishi CAS (disassembled)
Datsun 240z RB25DE ITB/NA with MS3/MS3X
winstonusmc wrote:I have never liked the quality of plastic that Nissan used. The brown plugs that are used in the coil packs and the CAS just fall apart.
I have been driving on my RB25 for a while now. Make sure you have the pull up voltages at the 1 degree and 120 degree pins on the CAS plug and proper ground and source voltage. I used 5v and a 370ohm resistor like in the DIY instructions, but that was many years ago.
The plugs are indeed crap. But they are also from the 90's so. We can't really complain to terribly much.
I made sure to do the resistors on both with a 5v pull up. Only difference is I used a 1k ohm resistor per the new instructions. People seemed to have been having a lot more success with 1k resistors.
mMy new plug came in a little early! So I'll be installing it today and seeing where we are at.
Alrighty guys... So connection is changed out and I'm back at square one. Diag logger still looks exactly the same...
At this point I'm at a complete loss.
I confirmed that the low res signal is going to the crank input and the high res is going to the PT4 yet I still don't understand why the diag logger looks the way it does.
I switch the wires just for the hell of it and then I'm back to getting literally nothing on the logger.
I just pulled off the CAS and made sure it's still good. It's checked out in spec as per nissans manual.
What am I missing here guys?
I got it all running!
I ended up having to make a testing bench of only the ECU and CAS.
I had it so I could spin the CAS by hand and have my laptop connected to the ECU while adjusting the pots.
What's interesting is that I didn't get my cam signal until I moved the J1 jumper to 3-4. Then everything started syncing and I was getting my RPM.
Put it back on the car and I was able to fire the motor up!
A note for any newbs..
Make sure that when you are looking at the composite log don't be zoomed in.. That's why my logs were looking like the crank signal was wired to the cam..
Once I zoomed out everything started to look like it's supposed to..
RGNHD wrote:What's interesting is that I didn't get my cam signal until I moved the J1 jumper to 3-4. Then everything started syncing and I was getting my RPM.
Glad you got it fired up. The J1 jumper setting is covered in the hardware manual section 5.2.4.