VG30E 85 Maxima

[vern_k]

So got almost everything all wired in, tested spark it worked, MS is seeing CPS as seen in the data logs, but I have a "Not RPM Synced" and don't get spark when I crank the engine how do I fix that?????

[jsmcortina]

You need a wheel decoder for that specific CAS.

James

[vern_k]

You need a wheel decoder for that specific CAS.

James

oh would have been nice if it says somewhere works with the low rez/high rez Nissans except the VG30E, everything I read said it was supported.......

[jsmcortina]

Matt DID post that "it only works in Basic Trigger mode" (currently.)

James

[vern_k]

yes I did see that, how do I get it to use the low rez as the signal? I tried a couple different settings and couldn't get it, and I'm not getting a option to change it, the only ones that come up are MS3X Cam in, JS10 and MAP for Cam input.

[jsmcortina]

Your low-res is already wired to the crank input, you don't need to change it. Select "Basic Trigger" at the top and "Single Coil".

James

[vern_k]

thanks, I won't be able to try it for a bit since I don't have a day off again for a couple weeks, and after I couldn't get it going yesterday I pulled my wires to get them bundled and ran though a fire wall grommet which I had planned on doing after I got it started between working on getting her running smooth and hot and cold starts and idling..... but I think I have the head temp sensor mapped decently it stayed within about 1/2 a degree from 68 deg F and 75 deg F as the shop warmed up from middle of the night to mid day (worked for about 30 hours) but will be able to keep a eye on it as I get her started and warmed up....

[vern_k]

For James, this is a log while I was cranking the engine, the previous I was using a drill and chuck of hose to turn the distributor and could have gone backwards (clockwise) I think I went the right way but not for sure

[vern_k]

she's alive

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RIeBhkgb6d4

[vern_k]

why would I not have spark on only #3 wire is good cap and rotor is new

[vern_k]

well I'm up and running decent a couple more to and from work drives on auto tune and I should be good on that.... I do have a question about where I would hook up things like a fuel temp sensor, I have some open inputs but they say 0-5 volts will they work with a Ohm based sensor or what are my options for such things?

thanks
Vern

[Matt Cramer]

You would need to use a pull up with a two wire sensor, much like how the existing CLT and IAT circuits work.

[vern_k]

You would need to use a pull up with a two wire sensor, much like how the existing CLT and IAT circuits work.

since the sensor is just one wire I would almost have to isolate the ground, not super hard since it's in the FPR which I would just unbolt from the LIM and connect a ground wire, but not really looking into opening the box, can the pull up be put on the outside using one of the 5 volt out puts if so what resistor would I need?

[Matt Cramer]

A one wire sensor would work the same way except that ground offsets would reduce its accuracy.

[vern_k]

my current tune

[vern_k]

this mornings data log

https://www.dropbox.com/s/f6sz5dqmk0f66 ... g.msl?dl=0

[vern_k]

Having a new issue which causes a whole bunch of other issues, ignition timing is sticking at 11 deg, and won't go by the map at all, super fun because my engine doesn't like to be over 10 deg while idling, no there is no other timing adjustments on.


composite log

https://www.dropbox.com/s/76rhwh88vbsmw ... t.csv?dl=0


data log from the drive home from the shop with auto tune

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0bp7ocvk39k46 ... g.msl?dl=0

current tune from auto tune which I haven't looked at yet or fixed the idle issues that auto tune always give me or fixed the holes in VE map


https://www.dropbox.com/s/m4whhsozldq1c ... e.msq?dl=0


if anyone has a idea on why it's doing this please let me know

thanks
Vern

[BlackBird_SR71]

Can someone please explain why the DIY 54 mm wheel ( 24 -1 -1 ) was not recommended in this situation. Seeing as it is apparently made for the NISSAN CAS for the L28 ET nad VG30E/VG30ET ?

https://www.diyautotune.com/product/54- ... -or-vg30e/

https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tec ... gger-disc/

[vern_k]

Can someone please explain why the DIY 54 mm wheel ( 24 -1 -1 ) was not recommended in this situation. Seeing as it is apparently made for the NISSAN CAS for the L28 ET nad VG30E/VG30ET ?

https://www.diyautotune.com/product/54- ... -or-vg30e/

https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tec ... gger-disc/

because I was aware of it in doing my research, and was under the impression that factory was supported (is in basic) but I'm a broke ass due to project car for the last couple years and having my replacement daily for the Maxima stolen then the replacement for that blow a head gasket, finally finding a replacement trans for my Maxima then the ECCS went and couldn't find a good replacement so ended up here.......

[vern_k]

Could I get some clarification on instructions please, VG30E using MS3MS3X. Nissan CAS while using the DIY trigger disk, does the outer signal (was hi rez) go to the main board or the MS3X, then what input should I be using on the MS3X currently hooked to the PT4 as said on page 179 of instructions. Yes pull up resistors are installed and have known signal from CAS currently using factory wheel, wired as said in instructions but since decoding for the SR20 type wheel with allowances for 2 more cylinders hasn't been done I have to switch wheels and haven't seen clear instructions, and since I will be working on this after my 10 hour work day so I can get my car back on the road I would like to know what I have to change in wiring I need to make. Thanks