ford 2.3 not seeing missing tooth

[Tjohnson]

Hello, im trying to help my friend out with his ford 2.3.

It is a 3.0 board that he bought used, but everything seems to test out correctly on the stim. it has a 3.5" 36-1 wheel on the crank, with the diy hall sensor. using the vr circuit, and i have r56 tuned to 2.5v.

taking a tooth log, we see all the teeth, and the missing tooth sometimes, but not consistently. we had the sensor gap set at 1.5mm, and we tried making the gap bigger and smaller to no avail.

any help would be greatly appreciated.



thanks

[billr]

How thick is that wheel? It may help if you post a picture of the wheel/sensor config. Try for a longer tooth-log, I'm not sure a full crank revolution shows in the one posted. Did you check the two pots, make sure they are installed in correct location and orientation (yeah, R56 has been adjusted with a meter, but what about the other pot?).

Since this is a board with "unknown" build history, maybe posting pictures of both sides would reveal something.

[Tjohnson]

How thick is that wheel? It may help if you post a picture of the wheel/sensor config. Try for a longer tooth-log, I'm not sure a full crank revolution shows in the one posted. Did you check the two pots, make sure they are installed in correct location and orientation (yeah, R56 has been adjusted with a meter, but what about the other pot?).

Since this is a board with "unknown" build history, maybe posting pictures of both sides would reveal something.

Here are the photos requested.

The other pot has been turns anticlockwise 12 times.

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[billr]

I'm not seeing anything obvious on the board. The wheel teeth look a bit shallow, and their tips are below the pulley just to the left of the wheel. My guess is those tooth-tips need to be up higher, past the OD of anything nearby.

[Tjohnson]

I'm not seeing anything obvious on the board. The wheel teeth look a bit shallow, and their tips are below the pulley just to the left of the wheel. My guess is those tooth-tips need to be up higher, past the OD of anything nearby.

I thought of that too, but the pulley is aluminum.

Could I have the capture edge in the tune? Should it be rising edge or falling edge?

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[billr]

I gotta ask... does the sensor have a pull-up resistor?

[Tjohnson]

It does, and I've tested with a meter, slowly cranking the engine over I can see the voltage change from 5 to 0v.



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[billr]

I couldn't tell from the photo, but are the pots in the correct locations? As I recall, the 100K one goes towards the heat-sink, the 10K is away.

[Tjohnson]

The 100k is towards the heat sink. Is there anything else I can check? I haven't had such an issue with a ms2/3 before

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[billr]

I'm still wondering why we can't see a full crank revolution in the tooth log. Try taking a log using the setting in "ignition options". In place of "toothed wheel" you can set either "log crank" or "log crank & cam". The engine won't start with that setting, but I think it is more reliable in catching the signals.

[fpvmustang]

I gave up on a honeywell Magnetic Hall Effect Sensor on my 2.3 went to stock ford vr had motor running in minutes.

[Tjohnson]

Reading back through the cherry hall sensor data sheet, it has minimum tooth size and spacing. His wheel is about half of the minimum space between teeth. He's putting on a new wheel and sensor now, and I'm sure it will fire right up.

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