DB37 without screws
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- Helpful MS/Extra'er
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DB37 without screws
Hi All
A friend's race car that just ran a 16 hour endurance race with a MS3X is having a bit of trouble keeping the screws from backing out on the DB37 resulting in a misfire and a pit stop to push back in and tighten the little screws. I have never had this happen before but I have also never had an endurance race car.
Is there any alternatives to the screws for a DB37? Maybe like a printer parallel connector?
Thanks in advance for the ideas.
A friend's race car that just ran a 16 hour endurance race with a MS3X is having a bit of trouble keeping the screws from backing out on the DB37 resulting in a misfire and a pit stop to push back in and tighten the little screws. I have never had this happen before but I have also never had an endurance race car.
Is there any alternatives to the screws for a DB37? Maybe like a printer parallel connector?
Thanks in advance for the ideas.
Re: DB37 without screws
locktite??
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Re: DB37 without screws
Be careful using Loctite! You could easily break those tiny #4 screws during removal!vw_chuck wrote:locktite??
Ken
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Re: DB37 without screws
Drill the screw heads and use safety-wire?
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Re: DB37 without screws
Clamp down the wiring bundle next to it so the connectors can't vibrate loose?
I would probably fab a bracket around the ECU holding the connectors in place more secure.
In a pinch, maybe even use bailing wire in a crossover pattern to hold everything together.
I would probably fab a bracket around the ECU holding the connectors in place more secure.
In a pinch, maybe even use bailing wire in a crossover pattern to hold everything together.
Daily driver: 1973 Dodge Dart - 360ci engine - 11.3:1cr - MS3x - ignition only. 42RH/A500 OD+LU transmission / 3.23 gears
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Re: DB37 without screws
Thanks for the ideas, we talked about loctite but decided that would likely lead to us not being able to undo them.
I think we will try holding down the wires like suggested and maybe try one of these.
https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/e ... ND/5325374
I think we will try holding down the wires like suggested and maybe try one of these.
https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/e ... ND/5325374
Re: DB37 without screws
With that much vibration, I'd be worried about many other things failing too. I generally use a hood with 'thumbscrew' fixings rather than slot, and have never known one come loose.
Rover SD1 3.5 EFI
MS2 V3
EDIS
Tech Edge O2
London UK.
MS2 V3
EDIS
Tech Edge O2
London UK.
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Re: DB37 without screws
Dave I should have mentioned I am using the thumbscrews and not the small slotted screws. I too have done a lot of MS installs on wilder cars then this but the 16 hours of constant high speed racing (rumble strips, off track experiences) is just brutal on the whole car, I have never seen something so brutal. In fact my neck is in a lot of pain today from driving about 7 hours of the 16 and I have never had that problem before in a lot faster race cars.
I think we are just going to RVT at the thumb screw bit as it should be easy enough to undo but keep it from backing out.
I think we are just going to RVT at the thumb screw bit as it should be easy enough to undo but keep it from backing out.
Re: DB37 without screws
Thing is it's a pretty coarse thread, so more likely to come loose than a finer one. There are all sorts of fittings for the DB series of connectors including a spring clip version (no screws) I'd not think that would vibrate loose. Or make up some posts etc using M3 which is a much finer thread. And use steel which could be tightened harder. Or just a blob of glue once the ordinary screw is tight.
Rover SD1 3.5 EFI
MS2 V3
EDIS
Tech Edge O2
London UK.
MS2 V3
EDIS
Tech Edge O2
London UK.
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Re: DB37 without screws
While you are at it, make sure that any screws inside on the heatsink bar have some glue to prevent the nuts from working loose.
James
James
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My Success story: http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic ... 04&t=34277
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