Miata MS3X Not Starting

[rocketman051894]

Ok. I may have found the where the issue is. I viewed the signal after the opamp with another osciliscope and everything looked good: https://photos.app.goo.gl/usKTfeYrUjKtYTwL2

Now when I plug the controller board in and probe the output of the opamp, I get: https://photos.app.goo.gl/HDp8DJ97KvBPvnE13

This leads me to believe that there is something wrong electrically with my MS3 controller board...
Any ideas on what that would be?

What exactly changed between the two pictures? What board was plugged in, exactly?

The board that I am referring to is the white board with the microprocessor on it. I am probing the header that board plugs into before and after it is plugged in.

[billr]

When you R&R the MS3 (white) board does the stack of 40-pin sockets stay on the mainboard, or stay with the MS3?

[rocketman051894]

When you R&R the MS3 (white) board does the stack of 40-pin sockets stay on the mainboard, or stay with the MS3?

Are you talking about the 40 pin socket that needs to be soldered to the motherboard? If so, then yes it stays with the motherboard. The pins are all solid and have continuity.

[rocketman051894]

Ok. So i found the issue with the signal being lost. This is a rather big issue and others may have the same problem. It turns out that the socket that comes with the kit isn't the best fit for the pin. The issue was that the pin for the tach in on the controller board (white board) wasn't touching the contact in the socket which is why I wasn't seeing the signal when I plugged the board in. I am going to find another socket to use that will make better contact with the pins because I am now concerned with vibrations in the car making other pins do the same thing.

Here are some of the test pic:
Without controller:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/MwNASI6kuUBqf8TR2
https://photos.app.goo.gl/odyse7p9peZcHGNP2

With Controller:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Rm2dnzM0cbKIURJ93
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ooKcy0F7ci8ckElm1

[billr]

Is your MS3 plugged directly into the 40-pin socket that is soldered to the mainboard? Usually there are two more 40-pin sockets in between the MS3 and mainboard, as spacers so the assembly will fit the standard case, and maybe so the MS3 doesn't short against something on the mainboard.

[rocketman051894]

Is your MS3 plugged directly into the 40-pin socket that is soldered to the mainboard? Usually there are two more 40-pin sockets in between the MS3 and mainboard, as spacers so the assembly will fit the standard case, and maybe so the MS3 doesn't short against something on the mainboard.

It's plugged into the 2 socket stack that came with the kit.

[billr]

Okay, does that stack stay with the mainboard or stay with the MS3 when you are looking at the scope with the MS3 removed? If it stays with the MS3, you may simply have a bent/bad pin on one of those stacked sockets.

[rocketman051894]

Okay, does that stack stay with the mainboard or stay with the MS3 when you are looking at the scope with the MS3 removed? If it stays with the MS3, you may simply have a bent/bad pin on one of those stacked sockets.

It stays with the motherboard. The pins look fine but it clearly wasn't getting a good connection. Bending the pin slightly made a better connection and it worked

[rocketman051894]

Yay! So now the car starts and runs! But its not idling at all. Any idea on what im doing wrong?

Thanks

[billr]

Your MAP readings are still bogus (154 kPa with engine off), that isn't going to help any.

[rocketman051894]

Your MAP readings are still bogus (154 kPa with engine off), that isn't going to help any.

Would that be a calibration issue? It seems that its getting relative data from the manifold.

[billr]

Sure, it could be simply a wrong cal setting. Do you know where to find that in the "Tools" tab?

[rocketman051894]

Ok, I got the MAP sensor reading correct values. Its seems like its shutting itself off still. Here is the new log.

[rocketman051894]

Nvm. Apparently the fuel pump isnt wired correctly. I manually turned it on and it ran!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GgP4ZOMZevERE7JW2

[rocketman051894]

Ok. So the car is heating up and starting to get too hot. The fan kicks on and works but the temp still rises. It might be the water pump but is it possible its something in megasquirt? The coolant temp seems to be on par with the temp sensor on the instrument cluster.

[billr]

I don't think there is anything the MS can do to raise coolant temp (unless it controls the coolant pump or fan, of course). If spark timing is late there may be abnormal heating in the exhaust manifold, but I doubt that would show up in a properly operating cooling system.

[rocketman051894]

Ok just wanted to make sure. Luckily I've got a new water pump just sitting around.

[rocketman051894]

alright, water pump installed and the crank sensor is doing wacky things again...... This time its doing this: https://photos.app.goo.gl/lRxydVJQdWctFDZF3

[rocketman051894]

Here is the composite log of what is going on.

[rocketman051894]

anyone have any idea? I am also getting loss sync reason 32. What does that mean?