MS3 +MS3X with 1uz snyc loss at 2500rpm and logging issues

[mhodge]

Hi All,'

Hoping to get some help with my MS3 + MS3X which I have just finished installing on my toyota 1uz engine. It has COP and ITB.
I have attached an MSQ and datalog, however, I cannot get my data logger to open log files (I assume I need to purchase Megalog viewer) so I have no idea if this shows the sync fault or not (my composite logger also does not record any of the sync issues, it shows the sync issues when watching the live feedback, red line goes ballistic and crank signal shows more pulses than it should, but when I hit "stop" and scroll through the log, it all appears perfect and does not show any of the sync loss issues). I assume this is because it only records a finite amount of milliseconds?

In regards to the sync issue, engine started fine and revs, but when revving to 2500rpm, I get sync loss issues and the composite logger shows a bad crank signal. This is with all trim pots (R56 and R52 on main board, and R11 and R32 on MS3X) wound fully CCW. JP7 is also removed for VR sensor on the MS3X board. Whilst engine is running, if I wind in R56 and R52 1 and a half turns clockwise (from their fully CCW position), the engine revs cleanly through to what ever rpm. When stopping the engine and attempting to re-start it, the engine does not start as it cannot pick up any cranking signal. If I wind R52 and R56 CW 1 and a half turns (back to original position), the engine starts with no hesitation. I assume this means I am getting unwanted 'noise' from somewhere which the trigger level is picking up at high rpm?

Things I have checked so far:
- changed the cam input from "rising edge" to "falling edge" as per DIYAutoTune technical article.
- tried turning R52 and R56 half turn at a time to see when the engine revs cleanly (this is after 1 and a half turns), but I cannot get the engine to rev without loosing the ability to start.
- Checked all grounds for the ECU, all ground wires are grounded directly to the engine.
- Checked voltage of the battery to confirm alternator is working correctly.
- the crank cable route is well clear of coils, injectors and starter motor

Things I have not checked as yet (not sure if this will have any effect?)
- Cam cable is not shielded. Not sure this will help given it is the crank signal which is going crazy
- ECU case is not grounded (ie. it is not i a car, so there is no earthing connection between the ECU case and battery negative). Not sure if this makes a difference?

Peoples help would be greatly appreciated, not sure how to fix this one ad cannot find any other post outlining this issue (all other issues were fixed by winding the R52 and R56 trim pots CCW all the way).

Thanks,
Michael