several MS3X assy/test questions

[Davek]

I posted this over on HybridZ yesterday and have no response yet. This is the proper form anyway.
I hope you guys can help me out.
Building a Datsun 240Z with an L28ET motor. MS3X full sequential and PWM 2 wire form idle control off MS3 rather than the daughter card.
Here is my post on HybridZ

Several questions as I am a nube at electronics. I recently purchased all new stuff from DIY. MS3X and jim stim. Lastest Tuner Studio and latest program for the CPU chip.

Using MS3X/v3 hardware manual to assembly

1) Step13. Not using coil-ve as a trigger input instead install C30 in H1/boot.
I'm using L28ET distributor with DIY trigger disc. Is the above instruction good for me? Does the C30 spot stay empty?

2) Step28 Did not install Q16 as I am full sequential with Toyota logic coils. Is this correct not installing Q16.

3) Step 26 line 4 I installed the DIY Tip120 mod kit to control my Ford 2 wire PWM. Installed per DIY at Q4 and jumped R39.. Is this OK considering the daughter card and expander card?

I know I can use the MS daughter card to control my PWN valve but I did it this way. Wanted to verify I don't need to do anything else.

4) Do I install JP7 if using the L28ETdistrinbutor & DIY trigger wheel for crank & cam signal.

somewhere I read to assembly as I would be using VR trigger but I assume the distributor is optical. It's not real clear for someone not knowing the terminology.


One other comment. While testing the tach fine signal on the Jimstim I get a solid LED then start to blink extremely fast then back to solid. I mean so fast it's almost solid. Testing the primary POD I get no LED. Testing voltage at CPU socket all passes.

While hooked to TunerStudio I get no tach signal and says "not tach synced" Other signals are OK. TPS, O2, CLT

Should I move on to the car or resolve the Jim Stim, TunerStudio tach thing first?

thanks
Dave

[DaveEFI]

You don't need to install the TIP 120 mod to the V3 board Fidle, as you can use one of the X board outputs for a PWM valve direct. There is a pin marked idle on the extra DB37. You do need to add a diode and a jumper wire, though.

Adding the cap to H1 won't do any harm.

Q16 is a high current coil driver. Only normally fitted if you only have one dumb coil and MS is driving that directly (unusual). Don't really know what your ignition system is.

The VR input can be used for near any trigger, apart from direct from a single coil system, from the coil negative. That is a high voltage pulse best used with the opto input.
(The opto input refers to the type of circuit used - an opto coupler. For an optical trigger, you normally use the VR input)

I'd get it working and fully tested with the JImStim before fitting it to the car. Much easier to work on the bench.

[Davek]

Thanks Dave EFI
Good to hear I've done nothing wrong yet.
I will persure my Jimstim issues.
Getting real itchy to start this engine.

[Davek]

aw crap
fried my Jimstim CPU.
note to self--remove cpu before soldering anything. especially CPU sockets

[Davek]

Jimstim back in business now. I have a successful flashing LED while testing the tach signal fine pod as well as with the 2nd trigger with other POD.
However no tach signal or synced in Tunerstudio. I do have primary tach jumper on Jinstim and have #3 dip switch on. Do I need to use a tach pullup on the Stim board? 5v or 12v
any suggestions? maybe a setting in Tuner?

[Matt Cramer]

If there is no pullup on the board, you'll want one on the JimStim.

[Ollie8974]

Link to the Jim Stim jumper configuration.
Scroll half way down the page to "TACH SIGNAL"
Jim Stim provides a 5V or 12V pullup depending on the car tac.
http://jbperf.com/JimStim/JimStim_v2_0_ ... Setup.html

IMG_1710CROPED.jpg

[Davek]

12v pull-up on the Jimstim seems to work well. Varible rpm and RPM is synced. Fuel Pump LED stays lit now as I would expect.
Can I move it to the car now or are there other test that should be taken. If so where do I get these suggestions.

I Need to ask. I'm using the stock Nissan L28ET distributor with the DIY trigger wheel installed. This is supposed to supply the crank trigger to pin 24 and cam trigger to Pin 32 on the extra board. Do I need 12v pull-up somewhere on the main board as the Stim needed? greek to me.

I have a fresh build engine and would like to start it up and run it without many many attempt startings. Probably not a good idea for someone new at this like me. Should I try to find someone to share their map? to get my engine started for break in?

thanks for the help guys, you've been great help.

[Ollie8974]

I posted this over on HybridZ yesterday and have no response yet. This is the proper form anyway.
I hope you guys can help me out.
Building a Datsun 240Z with an L28ET motor. MS3X full sequential and PWM 2 wire form idle control off MS3 rather than the daughter card.

Confusing statement, The MS3X card and The Daughter card are two different items

Several questions as I am a nube at electronics. I recently purchased all new stuff from DIY. MS3X and jim stim. Lastest Tuner Studio and latest program for the CPU chip.

Using MS3X/v3 hardware manual to assembly
I will assume you have the MS3X and expander card.

1) Step13. Not using coil-ve as a trigger input instead install C30 in H1/boot.
I'm using L28ET distributor with DIY trigger disc. Is the above instruction good for me? Does the C30 spot stay empty?

2) Step28 Did not install Q16 as I am full sequential with Toyota logic coils. Is this correct not installing Q16.

When I assembled my MS I installed everything step by step.

3) Step 26 line 4 I installed the DIY Tip120 mod kit to control my Ford 2 wire PWM. Installed per DIY at Q4 and jumped R39.. Is this OK considering the daughter card and expander card?

Don't know anything about the Ford 2 wire PWM. I have the 4 wire GM valve.

I know I can use the MS daughter card to control my PWN valve but I did it this way. Wanted to verify I don't need to do anything else.

4) Do I install JP7 if using the L28ETdistrinbutor & DIY trigger wheel for crank & cam signal.

somewhere I read to assembly as I would be using VR trigger but I assume the distributor is optical. It's not real clear for someone not knowing the terminology.


One other comment. While testing the tach fine signal on the Jimstim I get a solid LED then start to blink extremely fast then back to solid. I mean so fast it's almost solid. Testing the primary POD I get no LED. Testing voltage at CPU socket all passes.

While hooked to TunerStudio I get no tach signal and says "not tach synced" Other signals are OK. TPS, O2, CLT

Sequential ignition the cam signal connects to the green #32 wire in the MS3X harness. That is the reason for the "not tach synced.

Should I move on to the car or resolve the Jim Stim, TunerStudio tach thing first?

thanks
Dave

WIRE 32 CAM SENSOR.png

[Ollie8974]

12v pull-up on the Jimstim seems to work well. Varible rpm and RPM is synced. Fuel Pump LED stays lit now as I would expect.
Can I move it to the car now or are there other test that should be taken. If so where do I get these suggestions.

I Need to ask. I'm using the stock Nissan L28ET distributor with the DIY trigger wheel installed. This is supposed to supply the crank trigger to pin 24 and cam trigger to Pin 32 on the extra board. Do I need 12v pull-up somewhere on the main board as the Stim needed? greek to me.

Pin24 on the Mainboard connector pin 32 on the MS3X board.

Here again terminology " extra board" should be MS3x board. .

I have a fresh build engine and would like to start it up and run it without many many attempt startings. Probably not a good idea for someone new at this like me. Should I try to find someone to share their map? to get my engine started for break in?

When the engine parameters are entered into TS a tune will be set up that should start the engine.

thanks for the help guys, you've been great help.

LOWERV3 MAINBOARDCONNECTORcroped.jpg