I will soon be starting to assemble my MS3X.
Which solder to use? I have seen, 63/37, 60/40, 62/38, and lead free. Which would be the best to use.
I also got a clip-on heat sink to attach to the leads of the electrical components to help prevent burn-out of the components.
Are any electrical components more susceptible to heat damage than others. I know that LEDs and transistors are easily damaged by heat...don't ask me how I know.
Am also using a variable heat soldering iron, so I should be good there.
Any tips, tricks, or precautions that I should be aware of before I start?
Soldering tips and tricks
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Soldering tips and tricks
Thanks
onig
onig
Re: Soldering tips and tricks
Don't use lead free.
Common 60/40 is fine.
0.7mm diameter is better for most things than the more common 1.2mm.
Tip temperature should be around 400C. The solder should melt instantly. It's better to use a slightly higher temp that too low, as it's the time needed to make a good joint which matters. But too high results in the bit oxidising.
With the V3 board, it is important the solder flows from front to back along the component lead. About 2 seconds after the solder melts is about right for this, while feeding in solder. You're looking for a nice clean fillet of solder on both sides. Start with the resistors - they are the most difficult to damage through excessive heat, or taking too long. Once you have the hang if it, it's easy. No real need for a heatsink once you master this.
Common 60/40 is fine.
0.7mm diameter is better for most things than the more common 1.2mm.
Tip temperature should be around 400C. The solder should melt instantly. It's better to use a slightly higher temp that too low, as it's the time needed to make a good joint which matters. But too high results in the bit oxidising.
With the V3 board, it is important the solder flows from front to back along the component lead. About 2 seconds after the solder melts is about right for this, while feeding in solder. You're looking for a nice clean fillet of solder on both sides. Start with the resistors - they are the most difficult to damage through excessive heat, or taking too long. Once you have the hang if it, it's easy. No real need for a heatsink once you master this.
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- Super MS/Extra'er
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Re: Soldering tips and tricks
"63/37, 60/40, 62/38"
All those will work fine. I agree, avoid lead-free and use a rosin flux, avoid a "water-wash" flux. When soldering multi-pin devices (like ICs) I usually do a couple of pins, then let it cool while I solder somewhere else, then come back again several times to do a couple more pins.
All those will work fine. I agree, avoid lead-free and use a rosin flux, avoid a "water-wash" flux. When soldering multi-pin devices (like ICs) I usually do a couple of pins, then let it cool while I solder somewhere else, then come back again several times to do a couple more pins.
Re: Soldering tips and tricks
"With the V3 board, it is important the solder flows from front to back along the component lead. "
What is meant 'front to back along the component lead'?
What is meant 'front to back along the component lead'?
Thanks
onig
onig
-
- Super MS/Extra'er
- Posts: 6828
- Joined: Sun May 15, 2011 11:41 am
- Location: Walnut Creek, Calif. USA
Re: Soldering tips and tricks
Solder should fill the through-hole on the PCB and leave a fillet (of solder) between the lead and PCB pad on both sides of the PCB.