Pcb v3.0, burned and blown caps, diode, polyfuse,

[EspeNS]

C16, C17, C23 and maybe C22. F1 and D10.
C16 is almost gone, C17 have a hole. Polyfuse, C22 and C23 look burned, but may be damaged from heattransfer from C16 and C17. I guess it's best to change them anyway.
D10 is cracked, and have signs of much heat on the solderings.
We have had some electrical issues with this from the start, as you can read in this topic http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic ... 34&t=57018.
A couple of weeks ago I mounted in a peak and hold driver box http://jbperf.com/p&h_board/v2_0_1.html#Buy with no big change in noise. About a week ago the owner of the car noticed a funny smell from the MS2 box when trying to start. Of course it diden't start.
May the damages be because of bad grounding? I have no doubt that this probably is related to the reasons of the noise issues.
May other components be damaged that I should order?
And we will be mounting a new wiring harness without adapter before atempting to start the engine again. That's probably the easiest solution to the other problems.

Best regards Espen.

[Matt Cramer]

Could have been a voltage spike - the tantalum caps be pretty serious about their maximum voltage. It is likely that having the tantalum caps short out did the other damage.

[EspeNS]

Thanks
A voltage spike in the 12v? From the schematics it look like it is one tantalum on the 5v side and the other on the 12v side of the voltage regulator.
You don't think its likely other components is damaged? I soon wil be making a order from you, so if it's likely more components is damaged I will order them just in case.
And I have tested the MS2 daugthtercard, and confirmed it working on another pcb. v3.0 with stim

[billr]

Remove the caps that are clearly burnt (C16 & C17?), then clean everything with alcohol. Then power the mainboard up using a 9V battery and make the "12V" (will only be 9V) and 5V checks at the 40-pin CPU socket, per the assembly manual. If that looks OK, no sign of heating/smoke anywhere, then repeat that checking using a 12V battery. Still passes? Then re-install a daughter-board and try connecting to TS. Note that I say to use batteries not a handy AC/DC adapter, as those caps won't be there to filter the incoming power. Those AC adapters, especially battery-chargers, often have a lot of AC noise on their DC output. If you board passes those voltage checks and will then connect with TS, then likely nothing else got hurt. Obviously, if something else doesn't look good after it is "cleaned", then figure to replace that as well.

[EspeNS]

Thanks.
Yes, C16 and c17 is most damaged. I will remove them and try that test with batteries.

[EspeNS]

I have removed C16 and C17, and changed F1 and D10 with spare ones. Connected a 9v battery to the stim and had 5v at all the right places
No heat and no funny smells. Did it again with a 12v battery, and no heat or funny smell or smoke
Connected to TS with no problems. Of course I got a little clumsy and broke cpu pin 21 First time that happened to me. But fortunately I have a spare damaged daughtercard.

Last but not least, a thing I think may be important for the damaged caps.
When desoldering D10 I noticed the MOV1 was loose. Not burned or damaged in any way, but the solderings had cracked loose.
May this have caused the noise problems and finaly the blown caps?

[kjones6039]

I doubt that it would be very likely to cause the blown caps, but it certainly could cause copious amounts of noise!!

Ken

[EspeNS]

I have changed the damaged and suspect components mentioned, and soldered the MOV again.
It's tested sucsessfull in the car
The voltage spikes on Batt V is gone, and also the spikes on CLT.
But the CLT is stuck on 82.3C. We wil try change the sensor first.
Have not yet testet if pwm idle and boost works again.